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Location:
Victoria
Registered:
June 2002
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3tgte
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Tue, 02 July 2002 14:24
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whats a good turbo swap for one one these? what needs to be change to get the turbos on etc..
all advice needed please 
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Location:
Victoria
Registered:
June 2002
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Re: 3tgte
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Thu, 04 July 2002 05:45
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anyone?
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Location:
Terrigal
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: 3tgte
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Thu, 04 July 2002 06:44
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my t04 manifold  haha sorry had to add that..
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Location:
Terrigal
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: 3tgte
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Thu, 04 July 2002 06:48
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On a more serious note...
I've seen toyota ct26 turbos used. Either with a custom exhaust manifold to suit or i have also heard of people drilling out the holes slightly to make it fit on the original manifold
Nissan t3 turbos too fit without too much hassle. From a VG30 I think?
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Location:
Victoria
Registered:
June 2002
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Re: 3tgte
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Thu, 04 July 2002 07:39
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what mods need to be done to get the turbo's on the exhaust manifold?
do you need some sort of adapter?
Robbie
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Location:
Terrigal
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: 3tgte
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Thu, 04 July 2002 07:41
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i haven't done it personally.. But i've heard all you need to do is get a drill and drill out the holes on the manifold/turbo flange to make it larger. I may be wrong though! Best ask someone who has actually done the swap.
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Location:
Victoria
Registered:
June 2002
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Re: 3tgte
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Thu, 04 July 2002 07:53
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wouldn't mind know what other mods are needed, as my current turbo isn't water cooled or anything, how would i set that up for a newer turbo that needs water cooling?
Robbie
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Location:
Canberra
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: 3tgte
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Thu, 04 July 2002 11:56
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Ive got a CT26 on the standard exhaust manifold on my 3TGTE. Its easy to fit the Supra CT26, which is single entry, but i wouldnt use the MR2 or Celica twin entry turbo without making a custom manifold.
All you need to do is slot out the bolt holes in the CT26's flange approx 5mm outwards, and it will fit onto the 3T manifold studs. Both the CT20 & CT26 have round entry into the turbo (unlike the nissan/garrett rectangular entry) but the CT26's hole is approx 5mm larger radius. All you need to do here is get a die grinder and machine out the manifold 5mm, theres plenty of meat in the manifold, so dont worry about 'weakening' it by cutting this away.
the flange on the turbo core for oil feed & return is identical between the CT20/26 also.
Water can be fed from the outlet on the INTAKE manifold that runs to the factory throttle body, and returns into the motor near the thermostat housing. Alternately you can tap into heater lines, not as neat, but more simple.
If you use a garrett T3, you will need an adapter plate approx 10mm thick between the manifold & turbo. It will need to be ported to go from the round to rectangular shape, and remember that this will sit the turbo 10mm lower also, but garretts are pretty small in diameter anyway (compared to the CT26).
Hope this helps.
Phil
[Updated on: Thu, 04 July 2002 11:58]
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Location:
Victoria
Registered:
June 2002
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Re: 3tgte
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Thu, 04 July 2002 12:34
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thanks for that info..
you wouldn't happen to have taken any shots while doing all this would you? wouldn't mind seeing pics of the mods you have done..
what does it feel like under boost compared to the standard CT20? would i need to change my dump pipe? stupid question coming on, but does it sound better, more turbo sounds?
whats the aprox cost of all this?
i wouldn't mind getting another 3t exhaust manifold and CT26 and do put them together off the car so i dont have to wait a while and have no car..
and last but not least, where can i find a Supra CT26 and what should i look for when getting one?
Thanks in advance..
Robbie
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Location:
Canberra
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: 3tgte
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Thu, 04 July 2002 13:36
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I'll see if I have any pics. What's your email?
look around most import wreckers, or post on the parts wanted on this forum, they turn up fairly often. check that there is no play forwards and backwards with the shaft, and little or no sideways play. any obvious signs of oil or water in the housings also, and make sure no blades are damaged on the compressor or turbine wheels. I bought mine second hand privately.
having a spare manifold & doing it off the car sounds like a good idea.
boost comes in at about the same revs, but without the initial kick of the CT20, but heaps more up top of the revs, it doesnt run out of puff like the stock turbo, especially with higher boost than you could run before.
you will definately need a new (custom) dump pipe. 3" would be ideal.
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Location:
Victoria
Registered:
June 2002
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Re: 3tgte
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Fri, 05 July 2002 04:26
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g'day mate
my email is cronik@iprimus.com.au.. only if you lived in vic, i could see what it looked like heh
Robbie
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Location:
Wroclaw, Poland, Central ...
Registered:
June 2002
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Location:
Newcastle
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: 3tgte
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Fri, 05 July 2002 10:34
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I am running a VG30 non-roller bearing turbo on my 3TGTE using an adapter on the stock mainfold. The turbo died earlier this year so I had the stock ceramic exhaust wheel replaced with a brand new 50 trim T3 VL turbo item and the covers modified to accept locally available oversize bearings. Import turbos are hard to get original parts for in australia. If you are comsidering running a ceramic turbo I do not at all recommend raising the boost above the factory setting as this will more than likely result in premature turbo failure. With the 50 trim steel exhaust wheel and new seals, bearings and a high speed balance the turbo is capable of making 30PSI (all I need is forgies). Once reinstalled on the car this resulted in 100NM more torque and 30 more hp at the wheels @ 12PSI. Be careful how you grind the cast manifold as cracking can occurs as a result. My manifold had been crudely ground and cracks had began to form, an hour was spent before re-installation with a die grinder to extensively port it to suit the turbo. My car now runs 15ºC cooler than before the turbo rebuild, whether this has anything to do with the improved porting I do not know.
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Location:
Canberra
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: 3tgte
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Fri, 05 July 2002 10:58
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Unfortunately my manifold already had 2 cracks before i started grinding. anyone got a cheap extra manifold sitting around?
Tanman: how did you find boost response with the non ball bearing VG30 turbo? I compared two VG30's on a nissan RB20 (inline 6) one was ball bearing, the other not, both ceramic, and difference was amazing! The non ball bearing took longer to spool, but hit really hard, whereas the ball bearing made boost really early in the revs, and was progressive to build torque, much more smooth.
so when can you get forgies? Bring on 300+hp!!
Phil
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Location:
Newcastle
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: 3tgte
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Fri, 05 July 2002 11:14
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Phil: boost begins to build up at around 2800RPM and it really starts to hammer past 3000RPM all the way to redline. what is the boost response like for a stock CT20? unfortunaltely my clutch is not coping with the modified turbo and will need upgrading very soon. When the engine gets gets forged pistons, balance etc I am aiming for 250RWHP.
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Location:
Canberra
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: 3tgte
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Fri, 05 July 2002 11:23
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what computer are you running?
the stock CT20 I had only really came on strong from 3500rpm, but when i pulled it off the car i found that it had 5 cracks around the wastegate port, so that didnt help it any!
my mates rebuilt CT20 came on pretty good from about 3200rpm, definately no cracks in his.
the supra CT26 makes boost fairly early, but doesnt really get up & go hard till 3800rpm or so in my car, but i cant really say that's an accurate representation, cause i've retarded my exhaust cam timing a couple of degrees for more top end also, which may affect the boost response.
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Location:
Newcastle
Registered:
May 2002
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Location:
Victoria
Registered:
June 2002
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Re: 3tgte
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Fri, 05 July 2002 12:47
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whats it roughly cost to get a VG30? and where did you get yours from?
also, who made the adaptor plate for the turbo?
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