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Location: N.S.W
Registered: May 2002
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Location: Kita-Ku, Sapporo, Japan
Registered: January 2003
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Re: Ke20 Questions.
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Mon, 15 September 2003 12:11

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Twinky wrote on Mon, 15 September 2003 21:58 | Hey, im really keen on ke20's now and wanna start building one up. I have a few questions though.
(1)Easiest/best front brake upgrade
(2)The best diff to use (has to be lsd)with disc brakes
(3)Im gonna run a 4agte, I know the mods to get the motor in, but wat gear box??? I dont wanna keep smashing t-50's. Supra sounds expensive and would include tunnel smashing??
(4) Hard to convert to hydrolic clutch?
(5) did the autos have a larger tunnel then manual?
Thanx
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1) easiest is KE30-KE70 discs. only a step from 200 to 218mm discs, so only 10% gain. after that, you can put on vented ones (from some holden) with volvo 4 spots, but really it will take a little imagination, as there are not many bolt ons. you could always just whack in a rx7 strut, has been done..
best? brembos. got the $$ 
start by deciding what size rims you want to run, then what calipers, then fit the biggest god-damn disc that will clear the rim 
2) Hilux. LSD'd, good ratios, very solid, needs to be abused to kill it. rumoured to good for 600hp race cars (but they get treated a lot better than most much lower powered street cars;) )
3) W box. T will not hold up. afaik W box wil not git in KE20 tunnel. a T could last, but you would have to drive nicely, ie no slides, no burnouts, no abuse.
4) use early celica bits. should be easy. has been done a few times with different gear, just needs some measuring.
5) afaik, no. the KE10's had a wider auto tunnel, but that is only at the top, so the tunnel has straighter sides. afaik the KE20 is the same floorpan. will need to be widened to fit a W box.
hope this helps.
Cya, Stewart
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Location: N.S.W
Registered: May 2002
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Location: Kita-Ku, Sapporo, Japan
Registered: January 2003
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Re: Ke20 Questions.
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Mon, 15 September 2003 13:39

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what weight is on the rego cert? about 750? 780?
biggest charged motor you can fit legally is 2.5x
ie 750kg = 1875cc
780kg = 1950
you may _just_ get away with it...
the biggest difficulty will be working out what to do, and finding a friendly engineer. if it will be done safely then all good...
you're in Camden? there's an engineer near the hospital.. something "Smith" almost opposite "Eagles". they seem to be reasonable good, and great to chat with, as long as you have half an idea and want to do it safely.
oh, and you don't want to be modifying any 'structural components', as that will put you in ICV territory.
FWIW, i'm considering a 3SGE swap into a KE1x, as i find NA much more fun to drive. the BEAMS one has 200hp stock!
whatever motor you choose, it will be 'fun' to fit, but easier than a KE10 4A's fit very well, i gues the 3S is a little bigger, 1G is prolly too big, SR20 NA could be another good motor.....
dunno, what do you want to do with the car??
Cya, Stewart
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Location: N.S.W
Registered: May 2002
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Re: Ke20 Questions.
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Mon, 15 September 2003 17:18

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Yeh I Think they are 780 and are like 20kgs short of a 2litre turbo.
Yep Peter L smith is the engineer in camden. I choose the minto engineer to do my current corolla. But sadly he passed away just recently. So he wont be doing the ke
I just want a really quick little street car. Yellow Rolla's car is the sort of thing im after. I just dont know about the 3tgte with it being so old, are parts hard to come buy with these motors?
These are the motor options and my thoughts.
(1) 4age - would be easiest i think, but not as quick as im after
(2) 4agze - better, start running into gear box dramas
(3) 4agte - Is what i want, but gearbox drama
(4) Sr20det - 2 litre illegal
(5) FJ20det - 2 lite illegal
(6) Ca18-det - Not a big fan of these, prob a bastard to fit anyway
(7) Rotary - 13bT and 12aT is illegal, 13 na is illegal, 12na i think would be abit slow for my liking, unless its worked off its tities (but then it would prob just blow up).
( 8 ) 3tgte - dont know much about them
I was thinking of a 4efte, it would be neat. But then again ive never seen one in rwd format. Would be gearbox problems to.
[Updated on: Mon, 15 September 2003 17:19]
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Location: Kita-Ku, Sapporo, Japan
Registered: January 2003
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Re: Ke20 Questions.
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Tue, 16 September 2003 05:34

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Twinky wrote on Tue, 16 September 2003 03:18 | I just want a really quick little street car. Yellow Rolla's car is the sort of thing im after. I just dont know about the 3tgte with it being so old, are parts hard to come buy with these motors?
These are the motor options and my thoughts.
(1) 4age - would be easiest i think, but not as quick as im after
(2) 4agze - better, start running into gear box dramas
(3) 4agte - Is what i want, but gearbox drama
(4) Sr20det - 2 litre illegal
(5) FJ20det - 2 lite illegal
(6) Ca18-det - Not a big fan of these, prob a bastard to fit anyway
(7) Rotary - 13bT and 12aT is illegal, 13 na is illegal, 12na i think would be abit slow for my liking, unless its worked off its tities (but then it would prob just blow up).
( 8 ) 3tgte - dont know much about them
I was thinking of a 4efte, it would be neat. But then again ive never seen one in rwd format. Would be gearbox problems to.
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Jasons car is awesome!! 3TGTE is a bit long in the tooth, and afaik pretty exxy for what they are. his 3T is a hell of a lot better than most tho, so he'd be a great person to ask about setting up turbo stuff...
i agree with your motor thoughts... but gearbox will always be a drama if you are shooting for over 200hp, and occasional abuse. better to do it properly the first time and widen the tunnel. it may not need to widened that much.
there are 4EFTE's in RWD starlets around the world.. so it is possible, and iirc they used a T50.
a well sorted 4AGE would be quite a fun little car, without the turbo dramas and cost, but for my money, i'd either be going 4AGTE (prolly custom bellhousing? and wider tunnel), or a BEAMS 3SGE (lots of dramas, but very satisfying!)
3SG will be higher front cut cost, but is a great little motor, and is light too, even compared to a 4AGTE. and you can run it dead stock, and maybe even get the 6 speed g/box, or the tiptronic auto? (check out Bills page.. it's into an AE86, but that's what i'd like to do atm)
for cheapness, 4AG, best peak power (but could be very peaky) 4AGTE, for best all round drivability and future emissions compliance, 3SGE.
whatcha think?
Cya, Stewart
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Location: Perth
Registered: May 2003
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Re: Ke20 Questions.
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Tue, 16 September 2003 05:44

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Hi Twinky,
Regarding gearbox tunnel mods:
http://www.vr.iinet.net.au/engine_fit.htm
It really isn't that hard, provided you have a decent welder at hand. The tunnel in the rolla above was hand rolled from 1.6mm plate and welded using an oxy. I gotta do the same thing again in another KE10 I am doing, but this time I was thinking of cutting out a tunnel from another vehicle and welding it in to get a more 'factory' look.
Cheers,
Tyron.
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Location: Eskilstuna, Sweden
Registered: May 2002
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Re: Ke20 Questions.
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Tue, 16 September 2003 06:41

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Seadog on these forums has converted his KE20 to hydraulic clutch when he did his 20v swap. Send him a PM
Cheers
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Location: N.S.W
Registered: May 2002
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Re: Ke20 Questions.
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Tue, 16 September 2003 07:12

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Thanks Guys very helpfull
I think im gonna stick to the 4agte. As long as the tunnel isnt going to be TOO hard to make wider. Does anyone on here know how much it would have to be widerend to fit a w series gbox??
EarlyRolla - So what you did was cut the tunnel out and then place the box in the right spot and then craft the tunnel over it? Does this effect where the seats bolt??
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Location: eastern suburbs, Melb
Registered: April 2003
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Re: Ke20 Questions.
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Wed, 17 September 2003 03:09

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A friend of my has a 2tg powered ke25 with a w series box and didn't have to widen the tunnel just had to do a bit of gentle persuasion with a hammer.
Good luck
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Location: Perth
Registered: May 2003
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Re: Ke20 Questions.
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Wed, 17 September 2003 05:57
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Twinky,
That is pretty much the drift.
1) Went nuts with an angle grinder, making sure only to cut out what was absolutely necessary, and not cutting any chassis rails or support members.
2) Fit engine and gearbox (minus shifter).
3) Make up mount to fit engine and gearbox to car. (The engine and gearbox has to be in the right place before you start making the tunnel).
4) Make templates of tunnel out of cardboard.
5) Transfer design to metal using a giant compass, lead pencil and ruler.
6) Bend and tac metal into place.
7) Remove engine and gearbox and weld up tunnel.
8 ) Cut out a hole for the gear shift.
It took a couple of days using a jigsaw, plenty of cardboard to make templates first, an oxy welder with a size 8 tip and a large round tube to bend the metal around, plus a few other items.
If you can get hold of a grinder with a cutting disc and a jigsaw (both under $100 for cheapies at Bunnings), then you could do the majority of the work yourself and save a lot of money. Just need a welder to fit it all.
It isn't hard, just time consuming.
No, the seat mounts and seat belt bolt mounts are not touched at all. The front seat mounts to the cross rail you see in the pictures behind where the new tunnel ends.
If you use wide seats (eg Mazda or Sigma ones) then they wont be able to roll right forward. This could be fixed by tapering off the end of the tunnel as opposed to a 'box' end that I did.
Hope this helpful for you.
Tyron.
[Updated on: Wed, 17 September 2003 06:24]
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