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manipulate
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Acrylic Paint ?????? Mon, 15 July 2002 02:23 Go to next message
hey all

has anyone ever heard of acrylic paint ???

the thing is i need a whole respray of my entire car, but i dont really feel like forking out $3000-$4000 on a paintjob

i dont mind spending that for performance but a paintjob seems to petty for that much money.

I can get an acrylic paintjob dne for less than $200 from a mate of a mate of a mate.

HOwever its a little sus to be so cheap.
will this paint start stuffing on me like after a year or so ??
ie:chipping etc....and just being crap like George Bush ??

Any advice is apreeciated

TA !!

Rolling
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Les
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Re: Acrylic Paint ?????? Mon, 15 July 2002 05:37 Go to previous messageGo to next message

1) Do you really care ?? For $200 bucks ?!?!?! Nod

2) Can your mate do mine for $200 ??? I'll pay more if he wants !
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manipulate
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Re: Acrylic Paint ?????? Mon, 15 July 2002 05:55 Go to previous messageGo to next message
yeah tru les i was thinking that
i was thinking if i get mixed responses id go it cause its worth the risk for $200

but if everyone says a big NO!!
then i wont bother

and i dunno of i can get mine yet...but if i do ill see what i can do ..

Nod
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RA23_Sean
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Re: Acrylic Paint ?????? Mon, 15 July 2002 07:34 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Sounds like you'd have to supply the paint and prep the car yourself. $200 sounds like he'd just paint straight off the gun and that'd be it. You'd have to do the finishing. i.e rubbing back and polishing.

As a guide, I know a guy who wanted about a grand (mate's rates) to paint acrylic including prep and sanding back etc.
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Gased
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Re: Acrylic Paint ?????? Mon, 15 July 2002 07:55 Go to previous messageGo to next message
I am not a spray painter but have sprayed my car with acrylic
Acrylic paint has the following properties.....

It is brittle and chips easily, especially stone guard and door edges.
It is easy to repair (provided you use non metalic colours.
It is easy to apply and dries fast. Once you've gone around the car you can just about start again.
It requires many coats for a decent job - too thin and you can cut trough it. 15 coats not uncommon. Some light sanding towards the end is OK to get rid of any crap.
You don't need to bake provided the ambient temperature is reasonably warm.
It is easy to clean spray equipment. It is not as toxic as two pack (which requires full face force fed ventilator)
It is cheap in plain colours (i.e, non-metalic/perl).
It polishes well but is soft so be gentle use fine polishing compound
You dont need to go back to bare metal.
Buy more than is recommended 5/6 litres. Excess will keep well if sealed.

I don't know if this is a problem with acrylic and bog vs two pack and bog but I have experienced bog shrinkage with acrylic - this really pissed me off!

Good paint jobs depend on good preparation. There is no good cheap preparation. The cost of prep usually outweighs paint (with exception to effects paints - another story). For a decent job all trim needs to be removed. If the paint is a different colour doors will need to be removed and then there's the issue of painting the engine bay.


Cheers
David
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manipulate
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Re: Acrylic Paint ?????? Wed, 17 July 2002 01:37 Go to previous messageGo to next message
thanx for the replies ppl

but c,mon there must be more ppl with ideas about this ???

Freak
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Cool1
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Re: Acrylic Paint ?????? Wed, 17 July 2002 03:24 Go to previous messageGo to next message
What more do you want to know?
For $200 you cant really complain what the job is like! (within reason of course)
And for that price I dont think the job will be very professional!
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manipulate
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Re: Acrylic Paint ?????? Wed, 17 July 2002 03:29 Go to previous messageGo to next message
i wanna know if others have done this besides gased
(more opinions)

cause if it starts chipping and fucking up after 6 months or so and i end up having to getting another proper paintjob

thats $200 i could have saved

like i said b4
if everyone says a big NO...i wont
but even if 1 person says do it, its worth the risk

bah !!!

if i dont get anymore responses in the next few days ill do it

u reckon i should do it gased ??

[Updated on: Wed, 17 July 2002 03:31]

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Cool1
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Re: Acrylic Paint ?????? Wed, 17 July 2002 04:16 Go to previous messageGo to next message
My Ta22 has acrylic paint! I admit its not in the best of condition but it used to be good! As for the easy chipping, it will really depend on how may coats of pait it gets! But any paint will chip if it gets hit by rocks and shit!

I say for $200 go for it Very Happy
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manipulate
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Re: Acrylic Paint ?????? Wed, 17 July 2002 04:19 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Thats all i needed to hear cool1

hehehe

I am holding you liable for this decision

Wink
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Cool1
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Re: Acrylic Paint ?????? Wed, 17 July 2002 04:28 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Noooooo, dont do it! Acrylic sux! Laughing
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celicamad85
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Re: Acrylic Paint ?????? Wed, 17 July 2002 06:58 Go to previous messageGo to next message
the ra65 in my avatar is acrylic
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manipulate
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Re: Acrylic Paint ?????? Wed, 17 July 2002 07:01 Go to previous messageGo to next message
kool
and what do u think of it so far ??
how many coats ?
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Allan
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Re: Acrylic Paint ?????? Wed, 17 July 2002 07:39 Go to previous messageGo to next message
prep is the most important and i would suggest you wait for summer before doing the $200 paint job as below 10c over night makes for poor bonding paint, lotsa coats that part i know!
i have been told also towards the end mix some color in with the clear coat for a deeper color, i will also be adding a fine metalic to the clear on mine.

Allan
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TOY77
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Re: Acrylic Paint ?????? Wed, 17 July 2002 08:13 Go to previous messageGo to next message
G'day
If all you want to know bout is acrylic paint....
Most new cars are painted in acrylic... it is easy to repair... much easier than two pac... and you can actually get a better finish if done properly.
Two pac is more durable... but acrylic is very good. I chose acrylic over two pac for my car for ease of repair... bot h srcatches/accident and rust. and the diff in cost for me wasn't that great.

Cheers
Stew
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manipulate
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Re: Acrylic Paint ?????? Wed, 17 July 2002 12:04 Go to previous messageGo to next message
hmmm.....so lets say i get a chip or a scratch...if i have some left over acrylic paint i can just dab some on (carefully) in the comfort of my own garage ???

hmm...

if it turns out cheaper then im going it

however im sure if i can get a reccomended 14-15 coats as mentioned earlier for $200, but still prob cheaper


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Gased
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How to paint a car in acrylic Wed, 17 July 2002 15:04 Go to previous message
Man this thread has gone too far.

Materials will cost more than $200. So unless your mate owes you something or is doing it out of the goodness of his heart (i.e., a real mate) then forget about it.

Here's how to paint your car. Every car enthusiast has to do this at least once.

Go out and buy/borrow/rent yourself a gun and compressor and a good mask.
5-6 litres of PPG acrylic. 3 litres of undercoat. 15 litres of thinners. 1 litre of prep wash. 1 1/2Kg tin of best quality bog you can buy
If any shallow dents (<.5mm use spray putty)
Get four rolls of masking tape 1" and 2" and Saturdays age.
Get say 8 sheets of 400, 6 sheets of 600 and 4 sheets of 800 wet&dry. I sand dry and wear a mask.
Remove trim and all bits in the way of the surface.
Mask up all windows, tyres etc.
Using 400 and a block ( you can get ones that grip 1/3rd sheet of paper) but a cork one will do OK - sand down the existing surface - you only need to get through the gloss layer. Get a mate to help. Ensure you use a proper respirator (organic solvent + dust)
Avoid touching the surface with your oily fingers.
Fill dents with bog (any more than 1mm beat out). Before bog is too hard sand down to flat. Dry bog well use a bar radiator/blow heater. Don't spray with this on! The longer you dry the bog the better.
Dust the whole lot - use a vacuume cleaner.
Wash with prep wash if you want - otherwise use a rag with thinners and wipe whole surface gently.
Cover the inside of your garage with polythene - make a tent around your car but leave one end open and a big flap at the other - got to get some air flow else you can die.
If your satisfied with the surface its time for first undercoat. Say 60/40 undercoat thinners (it's on the side of the tin).
On warm day (20 +) apply say 3 heavy coats, leave about 30 minutes before recoat . If you get runs, splatter whatever sand down gently, dust and respray.
If your mate walks in with a smoke during spraying kiss your ass goodbye!
Apply final 2 thinned out undercoats at 40/60 30/70. Surface should be firm and not too powedery. Use 800 and sand gently if necessary. Avoid touching. If you can leave the car now for a few days so and good. Leave a heater on in your garage. Best use an oil column heater (no sparks).
Colour coats. Start heavy 70/30. Apply say 3 coats. Inspect. Any hairs and shit or places where the paint is pulling away, or sags runs etc can be sanded lightly and give a local quick spray. One more heavy coat.
Now start with lighter coats say 50/50 down to 70/30 over say 7 - 10 coats. If you get overspray and powdery results/sags/run/insects etc you will need a light sand using 800. Dust well. Vacuume you workspace.
The last coats consist mostly of thinners like 80%. You can mix in clear lacquer with colour for the last 4 coats (like 20 parts colour 80 clear working up to all clear). This is benfitial if you have a dark colour or are using metalics/pearl which is a bit of different story. For bold light colours, yellow, orange, white etc clear is a bit of a waste of time. Sure 20 coats of colour reduced to 100% clear, with a pinch of pearl will look deeper and radient)
Remove tape gently.
Once you are satisfied with your final coats leave the car for a full week in your warm garage.
Get a hold of an electric buffer or be prepared to work up a sweat. Get a tin of PPG acrylic buffing compound. If using a buffer go real slow and light or risk going through your paint (this is a real bummer). Forget about buffing near ridges & edges. The idea is to get rid of any surface frosting and micro shit. Wash residual buffing compound off (most of it should be buffed of). You can use kerosene but was the car with a mild detergent soon after.
The finish at this stage should be pretty good but buffing compound is a bit course. Don't wax yet. Leave the finish for a month or so.
Get some medium and fine cutting compound. Cut at medium once/twice & polish off. Best not to use rotary tool or you get swirl marks. The aim is to remove any swirl marks from the coarse compound. Now finally cut/polish with fine compound. Really old blue jeans work well. You should have a high gloss now. Now you can hit the surface with a polish/wax e.g., polyglaze.

After doing all of this you will really have enjoyed yourself and will have learned a shit load and will respect spraypainters!. You will also notice that you freak out in carparks and take less chances on the road Smile !

Last word - get a good mask and proper replacement cartridges (not expensive). Always ensure a gentle flow of fresh air.

Don't get the $200 spray job. The job above would cost $2000 - $4000 if done professionally.

Cheers
David






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