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Location:
Adelaide
Registered:
September 2003
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7-age 20V ? cost?
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Thu, 30 October 2003 12:01
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ive got an ae92 1.8l corolla and ive read that my best bet for peroformance would be to do a head swap and stronger internals. does anyone have any idea how much forged rods, a 20v head, 20V pistons? and custom exhaust set up would cost me. Is it commen to find a 20v head sold sepratly? any hepl would be aprciatated - my random totaly unexperienced guess would be 7k for the whole job.
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Location:
Sydney, OZ
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: 7-age 20V ? cost?
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Thu, 30 October 2003 23:30
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running the 20v on the 1.8(7A) is a waste of time, as they are designed for a high reving engine, something a 7A can't do without heaps of mod's. Run the 16V head, 140Hp@wheel is acheivable, no prob... all for about $3000-4000, not incl ECU,bigger pumps etc
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Registered:
June 2002
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Re: 7-age 20V ? cost?
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Fri, 31 October 2003 06:07
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| Johnny wrote on Fri, 31 October 2003 10:30 |
140Hp@wheel is acheivable, no prob... all for about $3000-4000, not incl ECU,bigger pumps etc
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Tried sending an email to 140Hp@wheel and he hasn't replied. Do you have any other info on his conversion 
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Location:
Adelaide
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: 7-age 20V ? cost?
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Fri, 31 October 2003 10:59
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maybe you forgot the '.com.au' extension
try 140Hp@wheel.com.au
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Location:
Adelaide
Registered:
September 2003
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Location:
Melbourne, Australia
Registered:
July 2002
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Re: 7-age 20V ? cost?
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Fri, 31 October 2003 23:45
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| Johnny wrote on Fri, 31 October 2003 10:30 |
Run the 16V head, 140Hp@wheel
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Looks to me like he was just underlining the power you could get, not suggesting an email you could contact.
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Location:
Sydney
Registered:
February 2003
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Location:
Melbourne, Australia
Registered:
July 2002
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Re: 7-age 20V ? cost?
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Sat, 01 November 2003 05:41
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sorry for being a dumb cunt them
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Location:
Sydney, OZ
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: 7-age 20V ? cost?
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Sat, 01 November 2003 07:18
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What would sort of mods would allow the 7a rev up quickly?
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Needle bearings!?.... the 7A will never rev as hard as a 20V 4AGE nor the 16V 4AGE, this is just due to natural Physics, they produce heaps of Torque... The best I've got was 7,500, but it only lasted a few races. The Current 7AFE we run, Rev's only to 6,700, and has a 75Kw @ wheels and hefty flat torque curve, this is a rally engine, so torque is more important. I did have a 7AGE 16V conversion running around, all standard parts, 60kw same redline... unfortunately fuel problems a caused a lean out of mixes, which has stuffed this engine.... Now we're going the whole hog  same internals as rally spec, free flowing head... well? sjsaman check your P.M's I've sent you the guy who does my engines.
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Location:
Adelaide
Registered:
September 2003
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Re: 7-age 20V ? cost?
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Mon, 03 November 2003 06:04
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this is from an old topic that inspired my 20v 7age are the rpm figures in this post wrong or did u have a 7afe running at 7200.
if they were running at 7200 then the 20v would shurly be able to extract mor power than the the 16v
One word.....WRONG!!! Have a couple of these conversions under way and a 7AFE race engine in bits right now. The FIA Homologation papers, and from actually building all these engine, the race engine is the first and getting all the attention now, the crank is in fact FORGED!! Also confirmed by Neal Bates Motorsport, which built Simon Evans Group A RV. The weakness link is in fact the rods, which is what happened to mine(going forged now), Caused by a 10,000 RPM missing of Gear change. Shot peening is always a good Idea, and were also done to this engine, and would be fine for street use. I standard form, @ 7000-7200rpm are the limit compared to a late model 16V 4AGE's 8,000 RPM in modded form. As for proof have been Thrashing this particular engine for the Past two years, to a 7800-7900 rpm redline constantly on both the track and on rallies, and it hadn't missed a beat, til this minor slip up. A few Guys did see the car in action at a wakefield practice day a few months back, and from the feedback I got, many didn't believe is was a 7AFE,until I lifted the bonnet.
Now, the flywheel bolts, the 7A has less of them, but they are the same size and diameter as a 4AGE, So at the RPM I run, they could to shear off the bolts, which has happened when my co-driver decide to go from redline in 3rd gear to 2nd and let the 'box do the braking, So something had to give, and I was happy it was the bolts and not the hard to get/find 6-spd I just put in. All this can simply be over come by having the flywheel dowelled, Which I have done, so there is a 'provision'.
I really think that Toysport hadn't done their homework when the wrote that articile.
Now back on to the 7AFE->7AGE topic, the first, I'm hoping, will be at the next Dyno Day. I should be along with the rally car with it's new engine. It is going to be is a balanced 7A bottom, 4AGE pistons, Mildly ported 16V head and and old microtech D5. It's a low budget test engine, which a good friend is going to run and give feed back on. The 2nd is a 7AFE-> 7A 20V which I trying to decide to what degree I want to take it too and what I'm going to fit it too, ie if I put it in the g/friends car, it will be pretty much the same as the 16V, if I find a car, I will be an all out monster, and possible a 2.0L not a 1.8, yet to decide.
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Location:
Sydney, OZ
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: 7-age 20V ? cost?
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Tue, 04 November 2003 03:02
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Ah, my old post...
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standard form, @ 7000-7200rpm
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They simple don't last much past that... snap, shear, bang usually happens...
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7800-7900 rpm redline constantly on both the track and on rallies, and it hadn't missed a beat, til this minor slip up
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what rods was I running? What Had I done to the head, intake, etc? That engine owes me in excess of $6000, and I'm still coming up with more ways to improve reliablity and longitivity.
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The 2nd is a 7AFE-> 7A 20V which I trying to decide to what degree I want to take it too and what I'm going to fit it too, ie if I put it in the g/friends car, it will be pretty much the same as the 16V, if I find a car, I will be an all out monster, and possible a 2.0L not a 1.8, yet to decide.
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I know what your getting at, but a heavily worked 16V head and 1.8l combo does produce better results than the 20V.... Well researched since I posted on this topic. A few guys in the states have done and built 20V 7AGE and then went back to the 16V , this was a reply I had from one-> The 20V works well on an engine that rev's up quickly, not one that's Torquey and capable of revving out high. ie slow to reach max rev's.
Still a 20V 7A would easily beat a 7AFE, but from recent info, I had a re-think on the GE 16V and 20V... one question is why on the 4AGE, and Not the 3SGE (Beams)or 2ZZ?
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Location:
Sydney, OZ
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: 7-age 20V ? cost?
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Tue, 04 November 2003 03:05
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Sorry, from memory that(old post)was on the topic of breaking cranks and weakness of them.
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Location:
Richmond NSW
Registered:
September 2003
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Re: 7-age 20V ? cost?
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Tue, 04 November 2003 03:21
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dude i would have to agree you really wouldnt want to put 20v on 7afe i was going to that but there is way to much fart arseing around you wouls be better of the work 4age or get a 20v silver and turbo that if you wnat something that rev quick i think the silver top is better for turbo applications as it has stronger internals to the balcktop which i no if i wnat to turbo mine in the futur i will need to go forged for my internals.
anyway thats my opion but if you have the money go for it as it would be pretty cool i think.
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Location:
Adelaide
Registered:
September 2003
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Location:
Adelaide
Registered:
September 2003
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Re: 7-age 20V ? cost?
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Wed, 05 November 2003 12:03
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