| Author | Topic |
|---|
Location:
Melbourne
Registered:
October 2003
|
|
please contribute to my online forced induction guide
|
Mon, 17 November 2003 23:12
|
 |
not nessecerily in this forum, but i am sick of people saying "yeah, i'm gona put a turbo my (insert random, naturally aspirated vehicle here) next weekend. i expect to get another (take upper guess at power gains, and times by 12) rwkW"
so, to get around being annoyed at people all the time, i decided i would get some ideas for contribution to an artice that i can link to when i see a stupid post.
anyway, so far, the points i have are:
<-----Common----->
- may need to lower compression
- will need new inlet manifold/exhaust manfold
- new exhaust system
- upgraded drivetrain (clutch, gearbox(maybe), differential(maybe)
- upgraded suspension
- upgraded brakes
- n/a engine is not built to take forced induction (less oil channels and oil pump)
- requires MAP sensor to cope with boost and fuel delivery (Lambolica)
- piping and intercooler (Lambolica)
- upgraded cooling system
- heat shielding of master cylinders, lines (Skip)
- blow off valve (atmospheric or plumb-back) (Skip)
<-----Supercharger Specific----->
- actual cost and finding suitable supercharger
- brackets for supercharger (Lambolica)
- new pulley at crankshaft for supercharger belt (Lambolica)
- wiring of supercharger (Lambolica)
- oil return lines (skip)
<-----Turbocharger Specific----->
- actual cost and finding suitable turbocharger
- oil return lines/water cooling plumbing (Skip)
anything else i have missed?
note: contributors will be credited
[Updated on: Tue, 18 November 2003 01:05]
|
|
|
Location:
Northwestern Sydney
Registered:
August 2002
|
|
Re: please contribute to my online forced induction guide
|
Mon, 17 November 2003 23:17
|
|
For older cars with an AFM may require a MAP sensor and or computer upgrades to cope with boost and fuel delivery.
Intercooler and piping.
|
|
|
Location:
Northwestern Sydney
Registered:
August 2002
|
|
Re: please contribute to my online forced induction guide
|
Mon, 17 November 2003 23:34
|
|
|
Also if your talking forced induction you are also including supercharging which has similar requirements but will need brackets made to carry the s/c and possibly a new pulley located at the crankshaft for the belt (if there is no spare) + wiring the s/c.
|
|
|
Location:
Perth
Registered:
October 2003
|
|
Re: please contribute to my online forced induction guide
|
Mon, 17 November 2003 23:54
|
|
Will need to set up oil feed and return for turbo, and also water cooling, depending on what turbo. I think saome superchargers have oil feed too, dont know about water cooling though, anyone? And a blow off valve 
|
|
|
Location:
Perth
Registered:
October 2003
|
|
Re: please contribute to my online forced induction guide
|
Mon, 17 November 2003 23:56
|
|
|
Oh yeah upgraded cooling system too, and heat shielding of master cylinders and lines etc.
|
|
|
Location:
Melbourne
Registered:
October 2003
|
|
|
Location:
Northwestern Sydney
Registered:
August 2002
|
|
Re: please contribute to my online forced induction guide
|
Tue, 18 November 2003 00:20
|
|
In the case of the sc12 & sc14 superchargers they are a clutch driven unit with it's own oil res. and internal bypass valve.
Have a look at the tech articles there is a good explanation of the GZE S/C there.
Byatch, is this going to end up a tech article?
It would be good to see some basics for conversions of any sort (turbo, engine, diff, brakes) that are general and relavent to all cars for the beginners like myself to look at before planning a project. Then search for the car related articles
ie - steps to forced induction
then
1G into celica
18r-g into celica
1J into mx83
7mgte into etc.
there is enough info on the site to compile most of this if the people who have done the conversions could be talked into writing an article.
I'd love to see this.
|
|
|
Location:
Melbourne
Registered:
October 2003
|
|
|
Location:
Brisbane
Registered:
February 2003
|
|
Re: please contribute to my online forced induction guide
|
Tue, 18 November 2003 02:51
|
|
from my experience (and research)...
<ignition MAP>
if modifying car with ECU that uses MAP but doesn't know what positive manifold pressure means, then you will need some kind of boost retard on the timing and increased fuel delivery. only real solution is another ECU.
<ignition dizzi>
if modifying an old-school engine with dizzi (mech+vacuum advance) and lowering compression below standard, the dizzi needs to be modified to increase static advance, reduce total amount of mech advance, consider dumping vacuum advance or building something that retards timing during boost.
<pinging/detonation>
if ECU does not have some form of timing retard for pining/detotation control, then some other method needed (e.g. better ECU with sensors suitable for that particular engine, or water/methanol injection during >5psi boost)
<fuel delivery - EFI>
if converting old-school car to EFI, then an intank EFI pump or lift pump AND surge tank AND efi pump are requried - running out of fuel during boost will lean out engine or cut out altogether
<fuel delivery - carbi>
if adding suck-thru carb to old-school car, then remove existing fuel pump and put high volume, low pressure electric pump near tank - running out of fuel during boost will lean out engine or cut out altogether.
<fuel delivery>
consider upgrading fuel feed line to larger diameter unit - get a pro to do this if unsure as an under-car fire may be fatal.
<air supply>
try to get ONLY cool air feeding the air filter/carbi - re-use the cool-air duct if exists
<air filter>
the bigger the better, a choked air filter may cause the compressor to be sucked forward into the compresor housing and the turbine into the central housing - ruining the rotating bits and bearings instantly. If you don't destroy the turbo, you'll run very rich.
<disaster control>
if not using ECU to control fuel pump, build a simple safety device that cuts power to fuel pump if oil pressure drops to zero OR if tacho is not getting trigger from the coil (some celicas will have a wire from the tacho to AirCon controller to indicate engine speed or if engine is running, in my car is 7-8 volts on idle, if falls below idle level, cut fuel)
<oil temp>
if possible get an oil cooler for engine. cheap alternative is a transmission cooler in oil line between oil take-off point and turbo.
<cooling system general>
replace existing temp sesnor - is good insurance in case existing unit is flakey. Get decent cooling fluid - do not use cheap shit.
<cooling system preparation>
if not rebuilding engine, then aggressively flush cooling system until is clean - the increased heat load will encourage deposited corrosion to lift off metal, float around (reducing cooling efficiency) and eventually block radiator (go back to 'start', buy another engine)
<cooling system turbo>
will add extra stresses to cooling system - don't use an 2nd-hand radiator from the wreckers - get your flushed and recored if nessacary. it will also limit failure of the tank seals if rebuilt by a radiator specialist.
<cooling system fans>
the factory cowl/fan for old-school engines are satisfactory if radiator is in good condition and viscous hub is functioning properly - replace either if stuffed as they are cheaper than replacing cooked engine. BUT, consider a mix of old-fan on inside, and thermo fans out front.
<driveshaft>
get checked, rebalanced and bearings replaced if needed.
<research>
spend hours (or even days) of your time searching the internet (not just toymods) about turbos and EFI. A lot of EFI and turbo sites have readable tech articles, some are contradictory, a lot are overseas but it will improve your general knowledge about the subject. Go to google.com (or dogpile.com or ...) and search for "turbo" and "automotive" and other word variants. Broadband net-access will make this less painful.
<research>
visit other car forums - someone else has probably done what you're considering,
<home>
prepare to accumulate lots of unwanted parts and tools etc. it is likely that you'll change tac mid-project and end up with a whole lot of spare parts and unused stuff (to which you partner/family/flatmates will inkindly refer to as 'junk' and 'shit' and may prove to be the nemesis of your relationship). 
charles.
[Updated on: Tue, 18 November 2003 02:56]
|
|
|
Location:
Perth, WA
Registered:
February 2003
|
|
Re: please contribute to my online forced induction guide
|
Tue, 18 November 2003 04:59
|
|
Just to second some of the Chuckster's comments:
Fuel System: will (probably) need bigger injectors (which, if buying 2nd hand, should be prefessionally cleaned before using), and then rest of fuel system should be upgraded to suit: lift pump, surge tank and high pressure pump, bigger fuel lines, and fuel pressure regulator needed. Fuel pressure increases dramatically when going from NA to forced induction, so make sure all (flexible) fuel line is high pressure stuff.
Similarly, make sure oil lines are high temp/high pressure spec. By the way, fitting an oil return from turbo might include enlarging the existing oil return hole in the sump, to guarantee good oil flow.
As a secondary concern, consider moving the battery to the boot to give you more space to play with (e.g. locating the turbo or intercooler pipework) under the engine bay.
For turbo and exhaust manifold, consider HiPerCoating as an alternative to (or in addition to) heat shielding, or wrapping.
[Updated on: Tue, 18 November 2003 05:01]
|
|
|
