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Evil_Foetus
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'74 TA22 LT w/ 2T-G and T50, advice/help things to know. Fri, 21 November 2003 10:42 Go to next message
everyone, my mate is looking at a ta22 out of the trading post. here is the ad.

Toyota Celica 1974, 2TG motor, Solex side-rafted, twin carby, recently built motor, GC thr'out, needs tyres for RWCert. 2T8092427, $1,300ono, Clayton.

supposing its the gt model, what are things to look out for when going to inspect it? does this sound like an ok buy etc etc?

he's also wondering how hard the 2t-g will go, considering its about 125 hp and the car weighs about 1000kgs, we're thinking 0-100 in about 9 secs.... right??

thanks guys, all opinions and feedback helpful.

[Updated on: Tue, 25 November 2003 10:09]

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T APLUS 22
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Re: TA22 2t-g Fri, 21 November 2003 18:59 Go to previous messageGo to next message
not sure about the 0-100 time. But for that price it isn't a GT. More likely to have had the 2TG put in. Or if your lucky it is a GT, and the guy don't know what its worth. which means seeying as your in Ballarat..I might go check the car out myself lol.
Hope that helps
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T APLUS 22
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Re: TA22 2t-g Fri, 21 November 2003 19:02 Go to previous messageGo to next message
if u want me to, I can meet you when having a look at the car. Check it out myself. I should be able to check a few of the hotspots for rust and what not. I'm no mechanic, but I might be able to help you out, Plus I'll bring the celica to get you started down the road of endless empty pockets and always having just one more thing you want to do to your TA22.
Cheers, Jacob
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Evil_Foetus
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Re: TA22 2t-g Sat, 22 November 2003 04:15 Go to previous messageGo to next message
cool dude thanks. this is for a friend, ill show him the thread and see whats going down. Very Happy
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Grega
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Re: TA22 2t-g Sun, 23 November 2003 19:36 Go to previous messageGo to next message
dunno about 9 seconds, but, might go ok with power to weight ratio and depending on the condition of the engine.

i doubt it would be a GT for $1300.

look for rust in the usual places, sills, rear quarters, bottom of front guards, doors, front of bonnet ect ect
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Evil_Foetus
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Re: TA22 2t-g Mon, 24 November 2003 07:42 Go to previous messageGo to next message
thanks grega, most helpful




Surprised
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boris
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Re: TA22 2t-g Tue, 25 November 2003 02:29 Go to previous messageGo to next message
This is all advice given to me when i was looking for my celica. Very Happy

Rear Parcel Shelf – check underneath from boot for rust
Corners of front and rear windows for rust
Front guards behind the wheel down the bottom for rust
Rear guards behind the wheel for rust

Put car in 1st drive forward a bit
Put car in reverse drive back a bit
Make sure it doesn’t grind gears

Check lights
Check wipers
Check handbrake
Check windows wind up & down

Check control arm bolts and general condition.
Check Bushes for cracks.
Check Hole at the bottom of the bushes if worn
Check Tie rods washers and bolts.
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Evil_Foetus
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Re: TA22 2t-g Tue, 25 November 2003 10:08 Go to previous messageGo to next message
thanks boris-

we drove down today and he put a deposit on the car.

its a yellow '74 LT Celica with a 2T-G motor and a T50 gearbox. Its a bit rough, but a fairly good body and interior- very little rust, a little in the front of the bonnet and little tiny brown spots on a few places. the interior is a little shagged, but nothing that cannot be fixed. all electrics work, doesnt crunch gears, drives resonably well. its got shitty re-treads on it, that will get the arse.

the thing is, the carbies need tuning. it idles a bit rough, and seems to have a few flat spots when driving, but goes alright, smooth gearbox and otherwise is okay. can anyone help out with this, or give any ideas?

another thing, is the rubber seals on the windows are pretty buggered. what should we do about this? considering its going to live outside, we cant have it getting wet....

thanks guys Smile
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Classique71
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Re: TA22 2t-g Tue, 25 November 2003 10:33 Go to previous messageGo to next message
rare spares or scotts old rubber have the window seals you need - I got mine from rare spares - they worked a charm Smile

If you need help - i pretty much know every ta22 that was in ballarat worth ratting for bits 6 months ago Wink

examples - red one in sebas auto wreckers that had a good straigth boot - and a silver complete car that used to be next door at that other wreckers ..

theres a ra23 in a paddock out of ballarat on the colac road that might have a few spares on it left - though only able to use the doors and boot of it ..

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Evil_Foetus
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Re: '74 TA22 LT w/ 2T-G and T50, advice/help things to know. Tue, 25 November 2003 10:54 Go to previous messageGo to next message
awesome, thanks heaps stuart, ill show him all this Surprised

hey are the ta22 wheels the same as ra60/ma60 ones? ie, will they all fit on eachother?
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Classique71
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Re: '74 TA22 LT w/ 2T-G and T50, advice/help things to know. Tue, 25 November 2003 11:13 Go to previous messageGo to next message
they share the same bolt pattern - nods - though watch for clearances - especially from the likes of the ma61 alloys ..

you cant put a ta22 13 incher on a ra23 or above though .. the wheel centres different , but you can put a ra23 or above wheel on a ta22 Smile
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Evil_Foetus
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Re: '74 TA22 LT w/ 2T-G and T50, advice/help things to know. Tue, 25 November 2003 11:19 Go to previous messageGo to next message
cool thanks again Surprised

coz the ta22 he's getting has shitty re-treads, no spare... so i suggested that theres a lot of good wheels on here usually w/ tyres that he could chuck on.

also, it aint roadworthy. what kinda things would stop it from getting one (other than tyres, rust)??

thanks





Surprised
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Classique71
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Re: '74 TA22 LT w/ 2T-G and T50, advice/help things to know. Tue, 25 November 2003 11:24 Go to previous messageGo to next message
seatbelts , major rust in the chassis , sills etc will get it done ...

bad oil leaks too ..


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Evil_Foetus
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Re: '74 TA22 LT w/ 2T-G and T50, advice/help things to know. Tue, 25 November 2003 11:28 Go to previous messageGo to next message
hmm, do they need to be retractable?? (the seatbelts)

theres little rust in the whole body, mind you, it may be cleverly bogged up.

the 2t-g has just been rebuilt, but the carbies need tuning. we were thinking of just whacking on some nice webers and getting it into a little speed demon... what can we expect from the 2t-g? (125 hp)

also, what about shocks and springs? whats good in that regard to get it handling nice?

there was an empty monroe shockers box in the boot, but buggered if i know if they're on the car.....

thanks stuart, and anyone else

Surprised


edit: also, what does the 2t-g redline at?

[Updated on: Tue, 25 November 2003 12:57]

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bman
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Re: '74 TA22 LT w/ 2T-G and T50, advice/help things to know. Tue, 25 November 2003 20:18 Go to previous messageGo to next message
im getting koni yellows and lowered king springs done on monday, i can tell you after then. i think a stock 2tg redline is between 6500 - 6600rpm, i think. Confused
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boris
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Re: '74 TA22 LT w/ 2T-G and T50, advice/help things to know. Wed, 26 November 2003 12:41 Go to previous messageGo to next message
bman how much is that going too cost you?
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bman
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Re: '74 TA22 LT w/ 2T-G and T50, advice/help things to know. Wed, 26 November 2003 20:28 Go to previous messageGo to next message
not to sure yet! i did however get a good deal by knowing the suspension guy. the kings and koni's are being done for cost Very Happy
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SeptemberSquallIndustries
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Re: '74 TA22 LT w/ 2T-G and T50, advice/help things to know. Thu, 27 November 2003 10:32 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Evil_Foetus wrote on Tue, 25 November 2003 22:28

hmm, do they need to be retractable?? (the seatbelts)

we were thinking of just whacking on some nice webers and getting it into a little speed demon...

what can we expect from the 2t-g? (125 hp)

also, what about shocks and springs? whats good in that regard to get it handling nice?

edit: also, what does the 2t-g redline at?


I saw that car in the Trading Post... how much did you get it for?

Seatbelts:
The non-retractable belts will not fail on that basis, but if they're frayed, then they'll fail 'em with good reason.

Carburettors:
Why do you want to change the carburettors? If the throat sizes are the same or similar, a carburettor change would be unlikely to net a significant power gain. For a car of this age, I'd be recommending that attention be paid to the condition of suspension/brakes/tyres first.

Wheels and Tyres:
You asked about *A6# wheels and tyres; I have MA61 alloy wheels and 205/60's on my TA22 with no dramas - highly recommended upgrade.

How's the steering? If there's some play you can tighten the steering box to compensate. The idler/pitman arms and tie rod ends may need to be replaced.

Check the condition of the trailing arm bushes - you may need to drop the trailing arms (at least one upper and one lower) to check.

If the suspension bushes are shot a shock/spring upgrade will be akin to building a brick house on quicksand.

Suspension:
If the suspension is in reasonable condition you might consider an upgrade like new dampers, springs and stabilisers.
K-Mac make springs, dampers and stabiliser bars.
Whiteline supply Dobinsons springs, KYB dampers and make their own stabiliser bars for these cars.
You can also get Monroe dampers, although I'd consider these a second-rate option against KYBs.
King and Lovells also make springs for TA22.
If you lower the car get an adjustable panhard rod from Whiteline. Without it your axle location will be out and the rear geometry will be up the creek.

Redline:
The 88220 2TG was claimed to make peak power at 6400RPM. Later models produced max power at 6000RPM. There's probably not a lot of point pushing it further. 'Red line' is a subjective and theoretical limit which may be considered advisory only, especially given the motor in question is probably between 15-30 years old and you don't know its history.


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Evil_Foetus
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Re: '74 TA22 LT w/ 2T-G and T50, advice/help things to know. Thu, 27 November 2003 14:37 Go to previous messageGo to next message
hmmmm thanks ssindustries!!!! Surprised he ended up getting it for 1000, its pretty rough, but a good project. we'll be gettin pics real soon.


we drove it back from melbourne today, and fearing the re-treads were shit, we put some tyres off a r31 pintara on it. not much clearance, but we're gonna chuck the 13s that came with it back on (retreads, but black mags) Surprised

heres some things that would be great if you guys could clear up:

1- the carbies need tuning

the car idles roughly, and has lots of flat patches in power. is this a carbie tuneup required? by rights, the 2t-g ta22 should be quicker than my mates "0-100 in 12.5 second" sa63, but it certainly doesnt feel like it at the moment. also, the oil light flickers when it idles.

2- temperature gauge

just to be careful, we'd pull over when ever the car started to look like it was getting hot. we pulled over 3 times, first 2 at about 90 degrees celcius, the third at 100. car didnt feel hot and wasn't boiling, but we left it about 20 mins/30 mins just in case. was running nice and about 80 when we got it home.

3- grinding noise

after whacking on the oversized rims, and possibly beforehand, there is a nasty scrape/grind noise from the front left hand wheel, kinda high pitched and whistle-like. does this mean bearings????

4-

if i think of anything else, ill add it Surprised
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peewee
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Re: '74 TA22 LT w/ 2T-G and T50, advice/help things to know. Fri, 28 November 2003 00:53 Go to previous messageGo to next message
temp on my ta22 with 13t and the gf's with 3t sits at about 80 under normal conditions and very rarely moves beyond it. if it hadn't been driven for a while then that bit of heat at the start is not too much worry if it now sits lower
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Re: '74 TA22 LT w/ 2T-G and T50, advice/help things to know. Fri, 28 November 2003 01:58 Go to previous messageGo to next message
my 2tg runs at just under 80, my gf's celica with the 3t (coincidence peewee?) runs under 180f. (72 model, pre metric)
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Re: '74 TA22 LT w/ 2T-G and T50, advice/help things to know. Fri, 28 November 2003 05:12 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Quote:

1- the carbies need tuning


Talk to Sean Maloney at Twin Cam Engines in Richmond VIC on 9428 5277. He's the guru. He may refer you to a local tuner. If not, he's definately worth the trek from Ballarat to visit.

Quote:

2- temperature gauge


If the coolant temperature seems high, first check the coolant level. A low coolant level means a given amount of heat energy generated by the motor is dispersed through a smaller volume of water than intended - as a result, that smaller volume of water becomes hotter than a larger volume would.

It is possible that the guage, the temp sender or both are inaccurate after 30 years of wear. An external temperature gauge (thermometer) could be used to verify coolant temperature.

Quote:


also, the oil light flickers when it idles



Do not ignore this. Check the oil level. Also remember that a lower-than-standard viscosity oil will result in lower-than-expected oil pressures.

Given that the flicker goes away when the engine is revved I'd suppose the pressure is just below the tolerance level for the warning light when at its lowest pressure condition (at idle).

Again, the pressure sensor could be out-of-spec after 30 years of wear. An external oil pressure guage could confirm your actual oil pressures.

Quote:

we're gonna chuck the 13s that came with it back on (retreads, but black mags)


13" tyres aren't often expensive.
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Classique71
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Re: '74 TA22 LT w/ 2T-G and T50, advice/help things to know. Sat, 29 November 2003 01:51 Go to previous messageGo to next message
though 14's are better Wink

I still have the original pizza dish 13 inch wheel caps if your mate wants them Wink

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Evil_Foetus
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Re: '74 TA22 LT w/ 2T-G and T50, advice/help things to know. Sat, 29 November 2003 03:22 Go to previous messageGo to next message
update:

my mate drove the car from my place to a fellow toyota freak's house about 10 kms away.

the motor has shit itself.

i havent seen or can remember properly, but its like the whole thing has seized up. cant jumpstart, pushstart, move the fan or anything. the pistons are completley stuck....

so, the other toyota man said, possibly needs rebore new rings etc etc....

so we are looking at other options.

3T-G
3T-GTE
18R-G

maybe

1G-GTE...

i was thinking that the 3t-gteu would be the best option- would the crossmember/mounts need to be changed at all??

roughly how much could a swap of these engine cost?

would we have to change the t50 gearbox on them (except the 1g, i know you'd have to change it)

thanks guys Surprised Surprised
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Classique71
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Re: '74 TA22 LT w/ 2T-G and T50, advice/help things to know. Sat, 29 November 2003 03:33 Go to previous messageGo to next message
3tg is SIMPLEST..

youd need to source a 3t crank and pistons ( t-18 had 3tc's) anyway for the rebuild - so this would be your cheapest option I believe the 2tg blocks - or at least the 2tgeu blocks can accomidate the 3t cranks with no need for grinding out stuff.. you wont need to change gearbox , or fuel systems.

Check the search facility out - im positive there will be info on how how to put the crank and pistons in the 2tg block on here

for major power jump 3tgte is your best option , its probably the most simple efi turbo swap of the ones youve mentioned , though you would need to modify your fuel system , and also accomidate a w series geearbox for starters. ( ta22 auto crossmember is needed i believe and tailshaft) ...

1G im not sure fits all that easily in a ta22 without firewall bashing - 18rg is a heavier motor and stuffs up the handling aspects of the ta22.. youd need to modify the front end to compensate this

if he wants to spend big money on conversions - 3sgte all the way!

[Updated on: Sat, 29 November 2003 03:36]

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Re: '74 TA22 LT w/ 2T-G and T50, advice/help things to know. Sat, 29 November 2003 03:43 Go to previous messageGo to next message
awesome stu, thanks Very Happy


he didnt really want to turbo it, until last night crusing round in a mates new laser tx3 turbo, and a beautiful midnight blue ra23 drove past.....fuckin fast, and looked like sex on wheels....


now he's thinking of coupling the turbo power with the stupidly good looks....

would a w58 be needed for the 3t-gte? would it have to be modified inside the car (ie, where the gearstick sits?)

hes looking to spend 1000-2000, if he has to, to get a good turbo setup...

otherwise, i think he may just rebuild the 2t-g and get it hammering, but ill mention the 3t-g option to him.

thanks again matey Surprised
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Classique71
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Re: '74 TA22 LT w/ 2T-G and T50, advice/help things to know. Sat, 29 November 2003 03:52 Go to previous messageGo to next message
for 1 - 2 K he wont get a turbo 3tgte in the car ... i think its at leasta 3 grand conversion , unless you have mates to do all the hard stuff

Sounds like tio me hes better off spending 1 - 2 k on doing a 2tg/3tg setup with tuned carbys and a decent set of cams , then spend his remaining money on swaybars/shockers whatever..

EFI swaps cost moneyz , though a nice mildly tweaked 2tg will still be a heap of fun to drive
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Re: '74 TA22 LT w/ 2T-G and T50, advice/help things to know. Sat, 29 November 2003 04:12 Go to previous messageGo to next message
cool thanks man

either way its going to be a big power improvement over his 73kw SA63, so he'll be happy. he wants to beat VLs.... Surprised

i spose, you can turbo the 2t-g at a later stage cant you?

ill show him all this thanks matey






Surprised
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SeptemberSquallIndustries
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Re: '74 TA22 LT w/ 2T-G and T50, advice/help things to know. Sat, 29 November 2003 08:13 Go to previous messageGo to next message

Quote:

also, the oil light flickers when it idles.


Quote:

the motor has shit itself.

i havent seen or can remember properly, but its like the whole thing has seized up. cant jumpstart, pushstart, move the fan or anything. the pistons are completley stuck....



=?


Quote:

would a w58 be needed for the 3t-gte? would it have to be modified inside the car (ie, where the gearstick sits?)


I think the T50 will fit the motor but may not be up to much abuse.

Quote:

i spose, you can turbo the 2t-g at a later stage cant you?


The complication will come with your selection of a compression ratio. If you are replacing pistions in a natural-aspiration focused rebuild, you'd select a high compression ratio.

These high static compression ratios will not be conducive to re-engineering the motor to run forced induction later.

Quote:

18R-G


Yes, it is heavier as previously mentioned. I had one in a TA22. As well as additional weight, the 18R in my 22 positioned that weight further forward than the 2T, exacerbating the 'lead-tipped-arrow' effect. Resultingly, the engine fan was removed due to lack of clearance to the radiator. A W-series (ie. W50) is required for the 18R, and the gearbox cross-member and tailshaft may require replacement and/or modification. The engine crossmember required modification to fit the 18R mounts. Alternatively, (hypothesis) the RA20/21 crossmember may fit (/hypothesis) - good luck finding one!

For all the effort, invest your moderate budget in developing a good rebuilt 2T/3T hybrid with what you have, rather than re-engineering the whole car to dodgy-fit a second-hand 18R for the same money.


I'd suggest 2T-G with high compression, cams to suit, on a 3T (78mm) stroke crank with standard Solexes tuned to suit.

Sean Maloney on 9428 5277 - Call him.

[Updated on: Sat, 29 November 2003 08:23]

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Classique71
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Re: '74 TA22 LT w/ 2T-G and T50, advice/help things to know. Sat, 29 November 2003 09:39 Go to previous messageGo to next message
SSI is right

if you want turbo - you lower the compression , if you want NA - up the compression ..

2tgeu's are good to turbo for low boost applications , as far as i know they run around the 8:5-1 mark

A good NA 2tg should run 10 or 11 to 1 depending on how silly you want to go

Coupled with hot cams - and a refresher - the 2tg will put out around the 70-80KW at the wheels mark ( seen a few pull this figure ) but the car is lighter than a sa63 so it will get up and romp ..

nods to t50 behind a 3tgte too - ive seen a 230KW + 3tgte running on a t50 - its still holding but has a very beefy clutch on it - i was amazed when i heard this .. they are not designed to handle really any more than 200 HP in stock form
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Re: '74 TA22 LT w/ 2T-G and T50, advice/help things to know. Sun, 30 November 2003 10:42 Go to previous messageGo to next message
hmmm this thread is a little wealth of knowledge....

thanks to all that have said helpful stuff, ill show him Surprised


the thing is still seized up, we havent looked at it yet.....

but he'd really like to do it up all sexy i think...

Surprised
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The Untouchable
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Re: '74 TA22 LT w/ 2T-G and T50, advice/help things to know. Mon, 01 December 2003 04:50 Go to previous messageGo to next message
heys guys, im grant, ryleys(brown celica) friend. in this thred he has been referring to his mate who owns a 74 celica with the 2tg. well im him, im about to take the motor apart and figure out what i need to do. i just want to know, in regard to putting 3t pistons in, do i need to bore out the block for those? you might of already covered some of my questions but i just need to clarify some things. um um. so basically, if i was putting the 3t pistons in what do i need to buy ie. apart from the actual pistons, the crank, rings and bearings, perhaps a rebore, what else should i look at? are there any little things i would need to buy? how much would these specific things cost, where should i get them and how much do u reckon labour would be around?

also, how much performance would the 3t pistons give me over the 2t ones?

thanks guys, youve been a real big help so far
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SeptemberSquallIndustries
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Re: '74 TA22 LT w/ 2T-G and T50, advice/help things to know. Mon, 01 December 2003 13:13 Go to previous message
I've replied on the classic-celica mailing list- basically, yes, 3T pistons are required in the hybrid we've suggested but the real worth of the hybrid is the increase in displacement given with the long-stroke (78mm vs 70mm) 3T crank.

So it's 3T crank, then 3T pistons flycut to suit. Use your existing rods if they're structurally sound. 2T-G block and head are fine, just be aware that an early models of 2T-G block may need to be machined to allow for 3T crankshaft clearance.

In terms of performance, the increase in displacement gives potential for more power, and the change in comparitive bore/stroke ratios will change the character of the 85mmx78mm 2T/3T hybrid engine somewhat. It'll be less rev-happy, but also more seem more torquey from lower RPM than a 85mmx70mm 2T-G. Trust me, it's a good tradeoff, especially on the street.

If you wanted to bore out the block, there are pistons available for a 89mm bore, which with the 78mm stroker crank will deliver about 2000CC. Be aware, though, that these pistons will cost you about $1200 a set and at 89mm your cylinder wall depth to the water galleries will be scant.

Standard bore 3T pistons are more affordable.



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