Toymods Car Club
www.toymods.org.au
F.A.Q. F.A.Q.    Register Register    Login Login    Home Home
Members Members    Search Search
Toymods » Tech & Conversions » Suspension in a RA23 LOTS of questions :)

Show: Today's Posts  :: Show Polls 
Email to friend 
Switch to threaded view of this topic Create a new topic Submit Reply
AuthorTopic
munki
Forums Junkie


Location:
Gold Coast
Registered:
October 2002
icon14.gif  Suspension in a RA23 LOTS of questions :) Mon, 24 November 2003 06:08 Go to next message
Hi all

Now that I'm on my uni break I can get some money which will all be poured into my little blue Celica. The first things I'd like to sort out is the suspension, rust (living next to a panel beater helps here) and then new engine. and I have a few questions on these.

Suspension - the current situation is that it is way too bouncy and harsh and I have bump steer. The suspension is standard apart from lowered king's springs and a .5 degrees of pos camber courtesy of a bent strut.

Now ideally I am going to change over the struts from a rt132 corona to have slightly better brakes. Now a couple of questions about this setup...

1. These come with a solid disc and twin piston callipers correct?

2. The come from the 5 door lift back corona with twin square headlights of about 1980 vintage correct?

3. As far as I have been told they bolt up to the RA23 knuckles and you can retain the existing spring and shock from the Celica strut?

4. Can I reuse the Celica wheel bearings in the corona strut? Only reason I'm asking is because the bearings are only 10000 km old.

5. Does the strut alter the geometry of the car in any way i.e. do I need the lower arm from the corona or something?

Because I have lowered springs on a standard car I have quickly found out what bump steer was and I have rung a few places and have been told that roll centre adjusters (RCA's) will eliminate most of my problems because it will bring the radius rod and lower control arm back to factory position. Now for the questions...

6. I have been told that because I have lowered my car by 30mm (lower kings) I need a 30mm thick RCA. I have also been told that because my springs have settled a further 5-7mm I ideally need 35mm RCA's. Does it matter that much? I can't seem to find any RCA's that are 30mm anyway they are all 35mm.

7. I have read on the forum that the AE86 sprinter has the same knuckle pattern and will fit onto the Celica/corona strut with no problems. Can anyone confirm?

8. ringing around I have found that the AE86 items cost in excess of $250!!! I find this a tad expensive for machined alloy. My neighbour who works in arc? radiators can machine some down for me as long as I provide a pattern. He has also told me that it would only cost about $20-40 in materials only because 35mm alloy isn't cheap. Now could I trace out a pattern from some steering knuckles or is it more involved than that? or can someone tell me a place to get some for around the 100-150 mark?

Suspension bushings although everything seems to be replaced as needed by the old lady I'm sure it cant hurt to put new ones in just in case.

9. Is it worth putting in urethane (spelling) bushings in the car as I have heard they make the car more direct they also make the car stiffer which = more rattles on shit roads for me. I have also heard that they crack after a year or two of driving and have to be replaced. Is this true?

10. Are they hard to put in yourself? At a first glance they all look easy to change but they seem to be jammed in there good is it doable at home?

Now for the shocks.

11. How much difference will shocks make to the ride? At the moment the car seems overally stiff and fairly bouncy maybe the king springs are to stiff? Or would this be due to stuffed shocks?

12. I want a firm but forgiving ride as I live on Mt Tamborine (those who have come on the cruise know how shitty the roads are). would adjustable konis be a waste of time? I would only adjust them once when I put them in unless they were externally adjustable which I don't think they are. I have also heard about kyb from reading on these forums as a good budget shock. What are they like compared to the konis? This is keeping in mind that I will keep the king springs because I'm poor and they are perfectly good (i.e. almost new)

One last question about the rear of a car when lowered. I know that if lowered too much the transverse control rod can push the diff off centre but what about the other 4 links? Do you need to lower these to keep the original angles like on the front strut with RCA's or it doesn't matter that much.

Holy shit that's a long post. Shocked

I hope you guys can help me out

Thanks in advance

Daniel

[Updated on: Mon, 24 November 2003 06:12]

  Send a private message to this user    
Brenton_TA23
Regular


Location:
Adelaide
Registered:
October 2003
 
Re: Suspension in a RA23 LOTS of questions :) Mon, 24 November 2003 09:19 Go to previous messageGo to next message
It all really depends on how much you are willing to spend and how good you want it to handle. when my shocks were worn they went hard and can cause the wheel to leave the road. not good for handling. Go the good shocks kyb's will be the way to go if they even make them. Koni dont make them anymore for your car but you can get them made for i recall 250 a corner. the thing with adjustable is you can adjust them to your setup so once they are right you can leave them.
The back end alignment can be sorted with an adjustable panhard rod, you can get them anywhere. I've heard and seen some dodgy things about king springs and their inaccuracy with height and rate but if you already have them your in the same boat as me. your bump steer could have a lot to do with spring/shock setup.
Go the urethane bushes, i've never heard a bad thing about them. The only difficult part in changing them is getting the old bushes out.
If you are after wicked handling buy a car with irs otherwise front camber (adj strut tops), caster (adj standard), sway bars and get the setup right.
Standard ra brakes have heaps of stopping power so if you can get vented disks for them leave them standard it will save farting around with front end stuff.
I have a ta23 with the ra struts so this is a first hand opinion. if i had a standard car to start with this is what i would do.
I have .25 and .5 front camber(big difference but not adjustable). Whiteline swaybars (nice and flat good balance), urethane all round and crappy kings and gt shocks.
I'd do the springs and shocks different if i had it my way but it all comes down to $$$'s
Good luck.
  Send a private message to this user    
CLG
Forums Junkie


I supported Toymods

Location:
Perth, Western Australia
Registered:
December 2002
Re: Suspension in a RA23 LOTS of questions :) Mon, 24 November 2003 11:06 Go to previous messageGo to next message
The old style Celicas actually have 25 minutes positive camber set into the suspension to aid tyre wear, so it's not unusual to see camber results like yours. I can't comment on the bump steer - I've never had to combat it. As for your other questions:

1: Yep, 1/2" bigger than RA23/28 though!
2: Yep
3: Yep
4: Yep
5: Nope
6: Dunno, never had to bother with them.
7: Dunno, I can check for you if you can't get a definative answer, I have both type of struts here.
8: Yep, you can have them made by engineering companies cheaper than $250, show them why you want them and they can do it. You could even have them offset for more camber gain (some people say these are exposed to more shear force, however I've never seen one brake, but check for yourself on this matter!).
9: Yep, grease them up liberally when you put them in and keep them greased - they destroy themselves when they are run dry. I have always pulled my suspenbsion out and regreased everything every three or four years as a service item, and never had a problem with them splitting.
10: Yep, they're easy to install, however you will need a press and some drifts to remove the old press fit rubber items, again "grease is the word" when installing the new items!
11: Yep, get some good shocks that can do a better job of controlling the springs!
12: Ask question ads to what shops recommend around your area, it costs nothing. You'll soon learn to decipher the products they are trying to push, and the products that actually work! KYB's are a godd middle of the road brand, I'd recommend them over anything else, as many people also do!
13: Yep, adjustable panhard rods baby - set and forget!
  Send a private message to this user    
ra23celica
Forums Junkie


Registered:
November 2002
Re: Suspension in a RA23 LOTS of questions :) Tue, 25 November 2003 00:12 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Agree completely with what Clint has posted and would only confirm that you need better shocks to control those springs, (KYB's are good) as your stiff springs alone combined with stuffed original shocks are contributing to your harsh/bouncy ride.
No need to worry about the four trailing arms at the rear when you lower the car, just the panhard rod which moves towards the passenger side.
Get an adjustable panhard rod from Whiteline, but make sure that you get the right bushes for it, tell them twice its an RA23, not 40, and not a Commodore, as the axle side bush I got with my adj. rod was the wrong size.
And thanks to Clint who helped me fit (read that as I watched while he did all the work) my Koni's and Lovells to my RA23.
Cheers,
Mitch.
  Send a private message to this user    
wilbo666
Forums Junkie


Location:
Brisbane
Registered:
May 2002
Re: Suspension in a RA23 LOTS of questions :) Tue, 25 November 2003 00:20 Go to previous messageGo to next message
ra23celica wrote on Tue, 25 November 2003 11:12


No need to worry about the four trailing arms at the rear when you lower the car, just the panhard rod which moves towards the passenger side.



What about the diff pinion angle? Not worth worrying about?

Cheers
Wilbo
  Send a private message to this user    
ra23celica
Forums Junkie


Registered:
November 2002
Re: Suspension in a RA23 LOTS of questions :) Tue, 25 November 2003 00:22 Go to previous messageGo to next message
i would think that the 2 piece tail shaft has the tolerance's to cope with that and people have been running lowered RA23 for 25 years and never had a problem.
Mitch.
  Send a private message to this user    
gold28
Forums Junkie


Location:
Madrid - Spain
Registered:
August 2002
Re: Suspension in a RA23 LOTS of questions :) Tue, 25 November 2003 02:18 Go to previous message
Everyone seems to be on the money with their suggestions. Definitly look at changing shocks. The only reason you have shocks sole in your car is to control the springs, nothing more. You have installed stronger springs therfore your old shocks cannot perform their only function in life.

Ensuring that the bushes are in as new condition will make a big difference but nolethane is not essential. It depends on what your willing to put up with.

Anti roll bars will make a big difference but make sure that you get front and rear to match.

Just to clear it up with what clint said re point 8. Offsetting the RCA won't increase shear load but it will introduce an eccentricity which puts a prying load on the bolts. The bigger the offset, the more axial load you are putting on them. you could probably offset them a little without compromising the bolts, but it is better to avoid it if you can.
  Send a private message to this user    
  Switch to threaded view of this topic Create a new topic Submit Reply
Previous Topic:Rubber seals for AE82 ?
Next Topic:Installing Koni Yellows
Goto Forum:
-=] Back to Top [=-

Current Time: Sat Nov 30 11:32:04 UTC 2024

Total time taken to generate the page: 0.005544900894165 seconds

Bandwidth utilization bar

.:: Contact :: Home ::.

Powered by: FUDforum 2.3.8
Copyright ©2001-2003 Advanced Internet Designs Inc.