Author | Topic |

Location: Central Coast, NSW
Registered: May 2003
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KE20 problems and questions
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Sun, 30 November 2003 12:07
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Hi guys I have just bought a KE20 2 door for my daily driver.
It has a 5K and 5 speed in it I have been told
How much is replacement 5K's and the 5 speed that goes on them?
It also has a sidedraught Dellorto or Weber or something on it
which dies completely when you stamp it from idle to full throttle. Any ideas?
I am having some trouble with the rear wheel bearings as they are completely shot.
I have been quoted 45 bucks per side for wheel bearings which I think is completely ridiculous.
Where can I get these for a more reasonable price? ( I am on the Central Coast of NSW, between Newcastle and Sydney )
Also, my brake pads are metal on metal and the disks are quite grooved.
Upon asking about brake hardware I was told brake pads were 45 bucks a set and replacement rotors are $110 each.
If my rotors cannot be machined and brake pads are not available (they said they will have to order them), is there any other Toyota interchangable part? I wouldn't mind upgrading the braking a little if a strut goes right in...
I have also been told by the previous owner that the car runs an early Mazda stud pattern from the factory is this all correct?
I am not a Toyota guru so I dont know these things
Any help is greatly appreciated.
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Location: Kita-Ku, Sapporo, Japan
Registered: January 2003
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Re: KE20 problems and questions
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Sun, 30 November 2003 14:52

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Gib Sandwich wrote on Sun, 30 November 2003 23:07 | Hi guys I have just bought a KE20 2 door for my daily driver.
It has a 5K and 5 speed in it I have been toldIt also has a sidedraught Dellorto or Weber or something on it
which dies completely when you stamp it from idle to full throttle. Any ideas?
I have been quoted 45 bucks per side for wheel bearings which I think is completely ridiculous.
Where can I get these for a more reasonable price? ( I am on the Central Coast of NSW, between Newcastle and Sydney )
Upon asking about brake hardware I was told brake pads were 45 bucks a set and replacement rotors are $110 each.
If my rotors cannot be machined and brake pads are not available (they said they will have to order them), is there any other Toyota interchangable part? I wouldn't mind upgrading the braking a little if a strut goes right in...
I have also been told by the previous owner that the car runs an early Mazda stud pattern from the factory is this all correct?
I am not a Toyota guru so I dont know these things
Any help is greatly appreciated.
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5K. check the engine number on the block. it will start with a number then K.. prolly 3K, 4K, 5K etc.
replacement 5K is anywhere form $0-1500... what are you after?
have a look at the carb. is it 1 carb or two. what NAME is written on them (ie weber/dellorto)? what number is stamped on it. dying when stamping? depends what carb.
$45 a side is nto bad for bearings. is that installed? cheapest price for bearings will be from a bearing chop (ABC, CBCm that kinda thing) i would take the $45 and run if it is installed....
brakes. measure the outside diameter of the disc. if it is 200mm it is KE10 discs. have a look at the caliper. does it say AKEBONO or PBR or GIRLOCK (or is it GIRLING?).
if your discs are stuffed, then i suggest you get the:
Discs,
backing plate
caliper
from a KE70, and it will bolt straight onto your KE20 hubs. i have this in my KE15 with KE20 hubs.
pads are easier to get. get bendix standard.. are okay if you are not silly.. if you are silly with them, they catch fire.
the KE70disc is 218mm diameter and 12mm thick, compared to 200 and 10 for the KE20.. gives you 10% extra braking.
stud pattern is 4x110, which is same as early RX's, 808's etc..
what else you want to know??
oh, go have a look at the "oldcorollas" yahoo group 
Cya, Stewart
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I supported Toymods
Location: melbourne.victoria.austra...
Registered: June 2002
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Location: Central Coast, NSW
Registered: May 2003
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Re: KE20 problems and questions
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Mon, 01 December 2003 09:15

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Thanks mate
I went into all the usual car parts places today and apparently the pad I want is a DB10 and no one has them
AT ALL!
So the brake conversion is probably gonna be necessary
What do I need to get and do to make it work?
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Location: Central Coast, NSW
Registered: May 2003
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Re: KE20 problems and questions
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Mon, 01 December 2003 09:19

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Cheers Stewart for your help
just a few more questions (didn't mean to send the first time!)
Can I use my rims I have now with the KE70 brakes?
Also will they go straight onto the stub axles?
Thanks
Dane
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Location: Kita-Ku, Sapporo, Japan
Registered: January 2003
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Re: KE20 problems and questions
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Mon, 01 December 2003 10:19

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Gib Sandwich wrote on Mon, 01 December 2003 20:15 | Thanks mate
I went into all the usual car parts places today and apparently the pad I want is a DB10 and no one has them
AT ALL!
So the brake conversion is probably gonna be necessary
What do I need to get and do to make it work?
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Heya Dane,
LOL, i just so happen to have a brand new set of
"Ferodo Excel-Premium disc brake pads, DB10XL" (Asbestos free)
, asking price is $60..... (i got them a while ago when i was using those calipers) check the name on the caliper itself first tho, as there are two different calipers that it could be.
ummm, with the KE70 brakes, you will need 13" rims. steelies from something like RX early, 808, and other mazdas will do.
you can also use KE30 brakes, but i think the long thin brake pad and thicker disc of the KE70 is better.
since you are using your original KE20 hubs, it fits on the stub axle.
what you need is:
KE70 brake disc (which bolts to your existing hub)
KE70 caliper, brake pads, and brake lines from caliper to strut.
KE70 backing plate, which connects the caliper to the strut.
ummm, i think thats it... you can use KE30 parts as well, but they have squarer pad and thinner disc (10mm vs 12mm)
basically unbolt your KE20 discs from your hubs. get new bearings put in while they are off . unbolt KE20 calipers and backing plate.
bolt on KE70 backing plate, bolt KE70 disc to KE20 hub, put hub back on stub axle. bolt on KE70 caliper. hook up brake lines and bleed brakes.
you can email me at stewie@unsw.edu.au
btw, where are you located?
Cya, Stewart
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Location: Central Coast, NSW
Registered: May 2003
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Re: KE20 problems and questions
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Mon, 01 December 2003 23:35

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Cheers mate you're a champion
So I ***can't*** use the rims I have now?
I am near Gosford too if you know where that is
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Location: Kita-Ku, Sapporo, Japan
Registered: January 2003
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Re: KE20 problems and questions
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Tue, 02 December 2003 00:33

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i Am assuming you have 12" atm???
i'm pretty sure that the 12" rims foul on the KE70 brakes... all you need is some cheap-assed steelies from a wrecker..
i spoke to Bendix today, and they no longer manufacture the DB10's...
you would be better off biting the bullet and getting KE30/KE70 brakes with 13' rims....
Cya, Stewart
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Location: Central Coast, NSW
Registered: May 2003
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Re: KE20 problems and questions
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Tue, 02 December 2003 01:38

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No mate it has multi-stud pattern 13's at the moment
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Location: Central Coast, NSW
Registered: May 2003
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Re: KE20 problems and questions
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Tue, 02 December 2003 01:43

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Mate I think I would like to go with the KE70 can you possibly post a picture of what these cars look like?
Cheers mate
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Location: Kita-Ku, Sapporo, Japan
Registered: January 2003
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Re: KE20 problems and questions
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Tue, 02 December 2003 08:06

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if you have 13's already, they should be fine...
the KE70/AE70 was 1981-1983 and was the first really square corolla, and also the last RWD corolla.
like this with 4 doors.
http://www.just1ce.freeler.nl/corolla-KE70.html
should be billions in wreckers...
Cya, Stewart
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Location: Central Coast, NSW
Registered: May 2003
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Re: KE20 problems and questions
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Wed, 03 December 2003 16:27

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Ok guys well here is the progress on the car
I measured the discs today and you're right, they're 200mm
Also the callipers are PBR and the strange part is they have the top part of the logo grinded off to put these strange plate brackets on to it
What do you think might be the go there?
Also I might mention at this time that I would like to put a booster on as well how do I go about doing this?
Cheers
Dane
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Location: Central Coast, NSW
Registered: May 2003
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Re: KE20 problems and questions
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Fri, 05 December 2003 13:36

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bump
stewart got anything to add?
cheers
Dane
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I supported Toymods
Location: melbourne.victoria.austra...
Registered: June 2002
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Re: KE20 problems and questions
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Fri, 05 December 2003 22:14

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stewart will know best here i'm not sure on clearance on the ke20 if you could use like a ke30 booster with master or maybe even the ke70 setup - last ke20 i saw had the booster remote mounted on the other side of the engine bay.
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Location: Kita-Ku, Sapporo, Japan
Registered: January 2003
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Re: KE20 problems and questions
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Sat, 06 December 2003 02:34

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Gib Sandwich wrote on Thu, 04 December 2003 03:27 | I measured the discs today and you're right, they're 200mm
Also the callipers are PBR and the strange part is they have the top part of the logo grinded off to put these strange plate brackets on to itWhat do you think might be the go there?
Also I might mention at this time that I would like to put a booster on as well how do I go about doing this?
Cheers
Dane
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Hi Dane,
you have KE10/KE20 discs.
interesting that you have the PBR calipers too, they are Aus made.
just FYI, the Akebono calipers came with 2 different piston sizes, KE10 was small and KE20 was larger (but same diameter as the PBR, and the later KE30/70 pistons)
plate? any way you can get a pic of it?? i had a set of PBR calipers in my KE15 stuff, and i don't remember there being a plate. are they pad anti-squeal thingos?
hmm, from gregories 122Quote: |
"Note: PBR types utilise an additional bracket which is attached to the caliper support mounting bolts at each end and centrally to the caliper assembly. this bracket must be removed in order to withdraw the caliper and gain access to the brake pads.
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booster? i can't remember what the KE 20's look like... what MC do you have now? single circuit? dual circuit? make? is the firewall flat around the MC, or is there ribbing (ie sheet metal sticking out either side of the MC, about 1-2")
if you have firewall ribbing then you can adapt a KE30 or later type MC using a spacer and a longer pushrod.
on the KE10's at least, you can use mitsubishi Galant MC's, which are dual circuit. the early ones (i think GA,GB) are same bore as KE10 (maybe 11/16), and the later ones (GC/GD) have larger bore (3/4 iirc). they are almost bolt in, just needing some hole enlarging in the firewall, but not too much.
the other option is to fit a remote booster, like a VH40 or VH44. this simplifies things a bit if you have a single brake circuit, but i'm unsure how you do it in a dual circuit (maybe rear brakes are unboosted?
if possible, borrow a digi camera and get a pic of the calipers and the brake MC 
Cya, Stewart
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Location: Central Coast, NSW
Registered: May 2003
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Re: KE20 problems and questions
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Mon, 08 December 2003 14:02

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Mate you're a champion for helpin me this far
I will try to get some pictures of the brake setup and post them on here
Also, this car is a runaround car so I am trying to do it on a budget so any nice remote boosters are not feasible unless there is a remote booster tree out there somewhere =D
Cheers
Dane
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Location: Central Coast, NSW
Registered: May 2003
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Re: KE20 problems and questions
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Sat, 13 December 2003 15:58

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Finally got the car back on the road today after sourcing a set of DB10's
Still planning on doing the KE70 brake swap
Please see my other posts regarding this car
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Location: Sydney
Registered: May 2003
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Re: KE20 problems and questions
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Sat, 13 December 2003 16:17

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tip with the carby
try a different driving style
you cant drive a carby motor like an efi one ie flatten it
gotta brign the revs up...
or at elast thats my experience and coudl of been the tune of the beast
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Location: Central Coast, NSW
Registered: May 2003
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Re: KE20 problems and questions
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Sun, 14 December 2003 12:13
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I have noticed that if I step on the brakes very hard the car will stall
My dad reckons it could be something to do with the float in the carby
Any ideas?
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