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Location:
Gold Coast
Registered:
October 2002
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why i have positive camber on the passenger side.
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Wed, 24 December 2003 08:43
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i was thinking bent strut to give me half a degree of pos camber. what else could it be?
the spring creaks when driving slowly over largish bumps when the wheel is turned slightly which has led me to believe that the strut is out or the insert is bent (but it isnt leaking as far as i know)
sound plausable?
any other susgestions?
thanks
Daniel
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I supported Toymods
Location:
Perth, Western Australia
Registered:
December 2002
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Re: why i have positive camber on the passenger side.
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Wed, 24 December 2003 11:00
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Given my assumption, you are talking about your 1976 Celica here, these cars run 25" positive camber to aid tyre wear normally any way. Added to the assumption that you're probably still running the bushes and ball joints that were installed in 1976, often sees figures like this. Is everything still standard and original? Squeaking sounds when the wheels are turned are also attributed to dry or worn radius rod bushes.
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Location:
Gold Coast
Registered:
October 2002
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Re: why i have positive camber on the passenger side.
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Thu, 25 December 2003 00:55
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yep your assumption is correct my ra23. the problem is that the passenger side reads +0.675 and the drivers side is -0.675 this is after lowering it on some kings springs. I assume that by lowering the car it would increase the negative camber correct?
yet the car still has positive camber on the passenger side. Because the old lady i bought it from damaged the passeneger side i assume that the strut or some other part of the car would be damaged.
when i was putting in the front springs the ball joints seemed ok and the boots looked quite new as were the bushes. (i.e rubber was clean and un perished by my untrained eye). Would it be more likely that my ball joint is damaged rather than my strut?
Yes the shocks are original as far as i can see and i am planning to replace these with koni yellows and at the same time all of the bushes.
the squeeking sounds sound like they are comming from the passenger side only and it sounds like creaking and pinging of the spring. Im not sure where the radius rod is  is it the part that joins onto the lower arm and can be adjusted where it meets the chasie rails?
What do you think of king springs? they seem a bit stiff to me but i know that the shock is not controlling them properly. if i get some koni yellows do u think the ride will be acceptable? any other susgestions for spring/shock combos? i dont want to spend more than 400 a corner and i would like a relitavly comfortable ride (i know its hard to have both comfort and handleing without lots of work but i can try  )
thanks Clinton (is that your correct name?)
Daniel
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Location:
Kita-Ku, Sapporo, Japan
Registered:
January 2003
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Re: why i have positive camber on the passenger side.
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Thu, 25 December 2003 05:51
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if you have + on one side and -ve on the other.. by the same amount... and since 1cm is abotu 1 deg camber change.. maybe your crossmember is out by 6mm? if it was shifted over, then you would have 0 on both sides 
Cya, Stewart
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Location:
Gold Coast
Registered:
October 2002
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Re: why i have positive camber on the passenger side.
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Thu, 25 December 2003 06:42
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thanks for that stewart i would have never thought of that in a million years haha. is moving the crosmember over difficult? is there room for adjustment or would it have to be modified? does it mean i have to take out the motor out and disconnect the struts or can i just jack it up and shift it over.
I like your idea because it is free to fix
Daniel
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I supported Toymods
Location:
Perth, Western Australia
Registered:
December 2002
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Re: why i have positive camber on the passenger side.
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Thu, 25 December 2003 11:03
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Moving the cross member depends on how much persuassion you have - ie the size of the lever you'll use to move the cross member!!!. There is some amount of adjustment in the cross member, where the bolts run through to the nuts, is not an inteference type design so you will be able to move it to one side or the other. The easiest way to do this would be to take all the stresses off of it, ie loosen the radius rods adjusters (yes, you are right in their identification) up by the chassis rail, and also loosen the sway bar mounts. Next loosen or remove the lower control arm bolts. Finally you may choose to either loosen and support the wieght of the engine, or simply move the engine with the cross member, before you loosen and move the cross member. Once reinstalled, you will need a wheel alignment.
Clint
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Location:
Gold Coast
Registered:
October 2002
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Re: why i have positive camber on the passenger side.
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Fri, 26 December 2003 06:17
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hmmm i have acess to a 6 tonne trolly jack and a engine crane so i would be set as far as that is concerned but it does seem like an involved job for something that might not be cause of the problem. Would setting it up on an alignment machine make the job easier at least i would know immediatly if the crosmember is the problem.
I think i will ring up some suspension places in goldcoast and brisbane on monday and get their advice before i start to play arround.
Thanks for the advice Clint and Stewart you have been most helpful.
I do have questions about spring shock combos but i think it would be best to leave to another thread
Daniel
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Location:
Gold Coast
Registered:
October 2002
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Re: why i have positive camber on the passenger side.
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Thu, 01 January 2004 11:59
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i couldnt get on to anyone in the suspension business with the exception of pedders. the guy there seemed to think that for the crossmember to be out .675 degs it would have to be out by 3/4 of an inch (roughly) not 6mm or so.this would make the cross member impossable to move over that far. He was keen on pulling my strut out and bending it to match the drivers side which seems like a band aid solution to me?
what do you guys think?
thanks
Daniel
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Location:
Kita-Ku, Sapporo, Japan
Registered:
January 2003
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Re: why i have positive camber on the passenger side.
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Thu, 01 January 2004 12:28
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he should do some maths....
easy to work out... think of the strut as the radius of a circle. work out the circumference of a circle with that diameter.
divide circumference by 360, and that is the distance needed for 1deg camber change...
for a 50cm long strut, 1 deg is 8.73 mm..
i don't like bending struts, but thats just me 
Cya, Stewart
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Location:
Canberra
Registered:
December 2002
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