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Location:
Brisbane
Registered:
November 2003
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Location:
Brisbane
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: 18rg electronic dizzy conversion?
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Mon, 05 January 2004 12:14
 
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Yes you can put 22RE dizzy internals in an 18R dizzy body. Someone posted details on this a while ago... try doing a search.
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Toymods Social Secretary
Location:
Sydney
Registered:
July 2002
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Re: 18rg electronic dizzy conversion?
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Mon, 05 January 2004 16:03
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that was me.... search for "21r-c"
cos you can also use the 21r-c dizzy.
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Location:
Newcastle, NSW, Australia
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: 18rg electronic dizzy conversion?
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Mon, 05 January 2004 21:03
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A friend has an 18RG electronic for sale. I will email you directly.
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Location:
Brisbane
Registered:
July 2002
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Location:
Adelaide
Registered:
June 2003
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Re: 18rg electronic dizzy conversion?
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Wed, 07 January 2004 01:42
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If you're not worried about different advance curves, are you worried about losing power?
You'll lose midrange power if you go from an 18rg genuine dizzy to another type, whether it is electronic or not. (unless you've already got the vacuum advance disconnected, then you might find an improvement)
I just did the electronic thing, it fixed all the idle probs and the hesitation problems, but now it doesn't go as fast, not until we do some work on putting the old 18rg vacuum advance back in anyway.
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Location:
Brisbane
Registered:
November 2003
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Re: 18rg electronic dizzy conversion?
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Thu, 08 January 2004 06:36
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Installed factory 18rgeu elec dist. and factory coil/ignitor. Heaps better bottom end and stronger mid-range compared to my points dizzy.
But, as I think you're saying steve, I'm having troubles making it rev now.
I thought factory would have been sweet, but I guess It would have helped to know which motor mine is.
Head i've got is 88270, don't know what if head and block are as factory or if heads been put on another, bought the motor running with solex's and a points dizzy. Never ran the vacuum advance as I don't have timed spark port (none of the nipples on my solexes give any vacuum signal except for a TINY erratic fluctuation irregardless of rev's - tested with a sensitive undampened gauge).
With the points dizzy i had no trouble getting 7000 plus rpm, now it is all over by about 5k. Tried a heap of different initial settings but didn't do any better. There is no misfire or breakdown, just simply doesn't want to rev any harder. This to me says the module and coil are handling fine.
Does anyone know the spec's for the factory dizzy's, ie:
total advance,
what advance at what rev's (usually they give a 'total advance at xRPM and a few other measurements), and
how much advance the vacuum system accounts for.
[Specs can be either in crank angle or dizzy, dizzy = 1/2 crank]
Any other ideas before i try to morph my two dizzy's or buy a cheap programmable module?
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Location:
Hobart, Tasmania
Registered:
May 2003
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Re: 18rg electronic dizzy conversion?
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Thu, 08 January 2004 08:58
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I have replaced the points in my 18RG distributor with the electronics out of a mitsubishi L300 van Dizzy. You need to replace the cam in the dizzy with that out of the L300 but curiously the bottom of the cam (that controls the curve) is identical to standard 18RG. Leave the standard weights in RG dizzy. Mine used a High Energy Coil from a Suzuki Swift (old one) and revs perfect.
This conversion worked well for my 18R-C too - it made it rev very hard though (  )
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Location:
Adelaide
Registered:
June 2003
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Re: 18rg electronic dizzy conversion?
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Fri, 09 January 2004 02:39
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Yes, the original 18rg weights must be retained.
I am also using a 88270 head.
The vacuum outlets on the solexes will not record any vacuum until you rev it out (4500-5000 it will come one better), that is how the vacuum advance works.
if you've got the vacuum point to do it, and can put the points vacuum advance in the "new" distributer, give it a go, you may find that it does the trick.
The other option is that your ignition timing is now too retarded, when we put in our elec. set up, we had trouble setting the timing initially as a static test was difficult.
set the engine to the point that you want the spark to happen ie. 12 degrees (cylinder 1),
turn the dizzy casing until the the pickup is exactly aligned with the rotating star shaped thingie.
If this doesn't make a difference, and the vacuum advance doesn't make a difference, something has not worked properly.
just so I know, does the points dizzy have a yellow tag on it with writing on it? does it say 18R-G or 88230?
I am just thinking that maybe when you bought the engine, it may have had an 18rc dizzy in it to start with, in which case, putting in the vacuum advance from that would do nothing.
If it is an 18rg one, then it would make a difference.
If the yellow tag has no writing on it, an 18rg dizzy rotor cap(the plastic and metal thing that spins around) has round corners and looks quite smooth. An 18rc rotor cap has square edges and looks sharp and "ugly".
This may help you figure out if in fact you started with an 18rg or 18rc dizzy.
I hope this helps and I appologise for the length.
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Location:
Brisbane
Registered:
November 2003
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Re: 18rg electronic dizzy conversion?
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Sat, 10 January 2004 11:00
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Marked out my balancer with timing marks at 20 degrees and 36 degrees btdc (typical total ignition advance crank angle for *most motors).
Also measured mechanical advance available on both the elec dizzy and points. Both offer about 16degrees, which is 32 crankshaft degrees (crank turns twice for every dizzy rotation - 4 stroke). springs feel heavier in the points dizz but then the weights might be heaps heavier too.
Ran with the electronic dizzy to get an idea of what's going on. 20deg@2000rpm and 36deg@3500rpm (all in).
So in theory it should be working fine, frustrations 
Had no troubles with initial timing when i first swapped the dizzys. Set no.1 at tdc on compression stroke, took note of where rotor was pointing, pulled out old dizzy, put in new one in the same spot. Timing light showed about 5deg initial.
Thanks heaps for your help but I have absolutely no tags or markings on my points dizzy and unfortunately i know the rotor button's been replaced in the life of the motor. drats.
as far as i'm aware, the purpose of vacuum advance is to advance the ignition timing when the motor is under light load conditions, to aid in more complete combustion and prevent plug fouling, etc. etc. This system's meant to work off a ported vac source. Which simply means it's exposed to vacuum in the throttle bores just above the throttle plates. So at closed throttle there is no signal, then as the throttle is opened a little it gives vacuum, and once the throttle is opened further it again gives no signal.
Hence vacuum advance should do nothing to add to the WOT operation and total advance (ie. total advance is not centrifugal + vac.). I've ran a lot of modified non-japanese motors with purely mechanical advance systems with no probs, except carbon build up if cruising at low revs too much (a by product of large cams too).
But this doesn't help my cause, so maybe i'm wrong about the vac system on the rg? Although i never ran the vac on the points dizz.
At least the car wheelspins 3rd gear at 5000rpm now, not needing 7k like it used to
If anyone knows the factory advance figures for the different 18rg's it'd be great. Next thing to do is unloom the module and reinstall the points dizzy and see what happens - undoing work is never fun...
Now THAT is a long post
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