Author | Topic |

Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Registered: July 2002
|
4A-G/4A-GZ Water Lines
|
Fri, 02 August 2002 00:46
|
 |
To fit the RWD 4A-G Water Lines on a 4A-GZ block it hits the knock sensor.
I was wondering, should I cut the water line in the centre section of it by say 5cm and reweld it? then run longer hoses
or
should I just cut it and not reweld and run longer hoses
|
|
|

Location: Bundaberg, Qld.
Registered: May 2002
|
Re: 4A-G/4A-GZ Water Lines
|
Sat, 03 August 2002 12:01

|
 |
i have had to use the ge water pipe, so i could have the top alt braket ( the ze bit that comes out of the head, doesnt have the bolt holes for it) as i have removed the s/c (to turbo it). i carefully bent the pipe out a bit (away from knock sensor), works fine.
|
|
|

Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Registered: July 2002
|
Re: 4A-G/4A-GZ Water Lines
|
Sat, 03 August 2002 12:12

|
 |
Thanks.
Thats what I have done, bent the water lines enough to clear the knock sensor and bolt the water pump in, however I'm seriously considering cutting it and just running longer hoses.
|
|
|

Location: Bundaberg, Qld.
Registered: May 2002
|
Re: 4A-G/4A-GZ Water Lines
|
Sat, 03 August 2002 12:33

|
 |
i cant see anything wrong with doing that, i rekon he only reason toyota made it out of metal was a to do with heat from the block, i would think if you put some heat wrap or something on the hose it would be ok.
|
|
|

Location: Canberra
Registered: May 2002
|
Re: 4A-G/4A-GZ Water Lines
|
Sun, 04 August 2002 10:37

|
 |
hey dorikin ichiban:
are you using the RWD water pump? does the pulley line up with the crank pulley?
I'm about to try this, but would appreciate the knowledge of someone who has done it already!
I'm not using the supercharger, turbo instead, so i'm not worried about clearance on the inlet side of the motor.
|
|
|

Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Registered: July 2002
|
Re: 4A-G/4A-GZ Water Lines
|
Sun, 04 August 2002 20:15

|
 |
TE72: I'm also using GZE block.
I'm using RWD Water Pump, thermostat and water lines (i.e. the whole water unit).
As far as I know, if you use RWD stuff you have to use the RWD pulley because it has a diff offset to the FWD and 20V pulleys.
My plan is... RWD Water Pump Pulley, RWD 4A-GE Alternator, GZE Crank Pulley.
I hope this helps.
Oh and for the water lines hitting the knock sensor, I did what federal did and bent the sucker.
|
|
|

Location: Montrose, VIC
Registered: May 2002
|
Re: 4A-G/4A-GZ Water Lines
|
Mon, 05 August 2002 01:35

|
 |
Well if you're not using the blower, do what I did and use some bits of pipe/hose, and attach the GZE thermostat straight onto the water pump, makes it easy.
|
|
|

Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Registered: July 2002
|
Re: 4A-G/4A-GZ Water Lines
|
Mon, 05 August 2002 01:43

|
 |
hmm thats a good idea too.
what is the pipe that comes off the water pump and going to the back of the block (the one that bolts on under the knock sensor).
|
|
|

Location: Canberra
Registered: May 2002
|
Re: 4A-G/4A-GZ Water Lines
|
Mon, 05 August 2002 09:26
|
 |
Does anyone have diagrams of the 4AGE/GZE water systems? Or even better, a full manual? I hate having to think about minor things (as opposed to power making mods!) to figure out what goes where, especially when you have bits n pieces from different motors to match up!
thanks for that info on the offset pulleys dorikin-ichiban.
Phil
|
|
|