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ta2272
Forums Junkie


Location:
qld
Registered:
May 2003
brake problem Mon, 19 January 2004 09:17 Go to next message
hey i have been having really bad brakes mostly at idle when i rev it i can feel the pedal move down.

what do i look at first and wht needs replacng
jason
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oldcorollas
Forums Junkie


Location:
Kita-Ku, Sapporo, Japan
Registered:
January 2003
 
Re: brake problem Mon, 19 January 2004 09:22 Go to previous messageGo to next message
soudns a bit like the check valve in the vacuum hose to the booseter, from the manifold, is farked, so the booster is not holding vacuum at low rpm??

possibly..

you could pull it out and give it a bit of a clean.. adn check that it is working (blow.. not suck Razz )

Cya, Stewart
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CLG
Forums Junkie


I supported Toymods

Location:
Perth, Western Australia
Registered:
December 2002
Re: brake problem Mon, 19 January 2004 09:22 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Combination of vacuum booster and master cylinder I'd say. Brake pedal moving at idle will be the Master cylinder, and the varying pedal while reving will be the vacuum booster. Given your car is 32 years old, recondition both or replace!
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ta2272
Forums Junkie


Location:
qld
Registered:
May 2003
Re: brake problem Mon, 19 January 2004 09:31 Go to previous messageGo to next message
thanks for that how much would it cost to fix this problem it seem to become obvous pretty fast that the brakes were poor.

jason
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thechuckster
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Location:
Brisbane
Registered:
February 2003
 
Re: brake problem Mon, 19 January 2004 09:51 Go to previous messageGo to next message
new (exchange) master cylinder should be $100 to $150 or so. ring around the usual suspects (autobahn, repco, auto one, ABS, etc)

get a dud one for exchanging from a wreck so you don't end up car-less

ditto for vacuum booster - but only if a newer one-way valve (air can be blown thru valve from master cylinder to engine - but not the other way) doesn't improve the pedal feel while driving.

purlion the one-way valve (or check valve) from anything at the wreckers - should fit inside most pockets or bottoms of toolboxes.

warning: if you're unsure of your ability to fix/replace brake components, get a brake place to do it for you - otherwise next time we read about you, it might be in the newspaper instead of here.
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ta2272
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Location:
qld
Registered:
May 2003
Re: brake problem Mon, 19 January 2004 09:56 Go to previous messageGo to next message
thanks for replying i get the master cylinder bit but what about the brake booster??? is there s kit i buy or what do you mean get a dud one from the wreckrs.

Jason
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thechuckster
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Location:
Brisbane
Registered:
February 2003
 
Re: brake problem Mon, 19 January 2004 13:44 Go to previous messageGo to next message
i think a new vacuum booster will be worth gold? i've never had one fail, my brother's triumph did, so he got another one from a wreck

i would focus on the valve first, then worry about the booster.

there's supposed to be a valve on the vacuum inlet to the booster, but my check valve came off a 1G-GTE engine - is a brass thing that would have been mounted midway in the line from intake manifold to vacuum booster. look for piping from vacuum bosters on wrecks and pull the inline valve.
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Norbie
Forums Junkie


Location:
Brisbane
Registered:
May 2002
Re: brake problem Mon, 19 January 2004 14:34 Go to previous messageGo to next message
It doesn't sound like the check valve, there should be plenty of vacuum at idle! More likely to be a leaking diaphragm inside the booster.
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TRD-75
Regular


Location:
brisbane
Registered:
July 2003
Re: brake problem Tue, 20 January 2004 09:07 Go to previous message
my brakes started to play up with the booster and the vacuum from the 2tg manifold. the brakes worked fine until i put the 2tg in. now the pedal pressure and hight varies. could it be not enough vacuum at idle? since the vacuum is only coming from one cylinder instead all like the 2t manifold. i could be completely off the track.
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