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CrUZsida
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November 2003
Distributor and Rotor Continuity Thu, 19 February 2004 13:41 Go to next message
We are thinking the uz isnt starting coz the distributors/rotors are stuffed.

Can you measure the continuity of a distributor?

We tried 2 ways
1) Disconnect the coil lead and any other lead at the dizzy
Put a multimeter (analogue) on each connection, and turn the motor over, looking for a defletion in the needle.

There was no deflection

2) Remove the dizzy cap and test continuity between the outside lead outputs and the inside lead output (ie, the bit the rotor comes in contact with.

Once again, on the flat surface there was no continuity

My question is can you test dizzys like this? If they are continuous, what kind of resistance should I expect

EDIT: The Rotor is also giving us a headache, We have no continuity from the centre to the curve bit. We have continuity to the top of the curved bit, but not the outside

Is that normal?

Cheers

[Updated on: Thu, 19 February 2004 14:22]

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oldcorollas
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Re: Distributor and Rotor Continuity Thu, 19 February 2004 15:12 Go to previous messageGo to next message
what exactly are you trying to test?
lead continuity?
cap continuity?
rotor continuity?

leads should have maybe 2K to 10Kohm resistance each

cap has usually aluminium post that goes from inside (where the spark jumps to from the rotor) to the outside (where the lead connects) should be virtually no resistance between inside and outside

rotor usually has a single piece of metal on top so there should be continuity unless it has got oxidation on it (which will happen normally during operation)

try light sanding with 1200 grit paper on the rotor on the outside...should be virtually no resistance between the bit where the carbon centre post of dizzy touches, to the outside curved bit.

testing from centre lead to any other lead is pointless since there is a gap of about 1mm between rotor and post in the dizzy cap.

lemme know how you go.
Cya, Stewart


ps, you have ignitor/s? checked them? are the reluctor pickups the right way round? are your coil/s good?

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CrUZsida
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Re: Distributor and Rotor Continuity Thu, 19 February 2004 15:21 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Thanks Stewart

oldcorollas wrote on Thu, 19 February 2004 23:12

what exactly are you trying to test?
lead continuity?
cap continuity?
rotor continuity?

leads should have maybe 2K to 10Kohm resistance each

Cap and Rotor only, will test leads later
oldcorollas wrote on Thu, 19 February 2004 23:12


cap has usually aluminium post that goes from inside (where the spark jumps to from the rotor) to the outside (where the lead connects) should be virtually no resistance between inside and outside


Hmmm, well there seems to be 2 materials there. The ali post, and something attached to the ali post where the cutout is.
There is no resistance to the ali post, but no circuit to the attached thing (not sure what it is, graphite maybe?

oldcorollas wrote on Thu, 19 February 2004 23:12


rotor usually has a single piece of metal on top so there should be continuity unless it has got oxidation on it (which will happen normally during operation}
try light sanding with 1200 grit paper on the rotor on the outside...should be virtually no resistance between the bit where the carbon centre post of dizzy touches, to the outside curved bit.

Did that, no continuity to the outside of the curve (ie, the edge of it)
oldcorollas wrote on Thu, 19 February 2004 23:12


testing from centre lead to any other lead is pointless since there is a gap of about 1mm between rotor and post in the dizzy cap.


Ahhh, we were wondering whether there was gap or not
Thanks for clearing that up
oldcorollas wrote on Thu, 19 February 2004 23:12


ps, you have ignitor/s? checked them? are the reluctor pickups the right way round? are your coil/s good?


No, I don't have ignitors, and I havent touched the pickups (as far as I know anyway)
And I have no idea if the coils are good.
Thats tomoro's test

Thanks
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oldcorollas
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Re: Distributor and Rotor Continuity Thu, 19 February 2004 16:17 Go to previous messageGo to next message
CrUZsida wrote on Fri, 20 February 2004 02:21


Hmmm, well there seems to be 2 materials there. The ali post, and something attached to the ali post where the cutout is.
There is no resistance to the ali post, but no circuit to the attached thing (not sure what it is, graphite maybe?

you mean the centre post? yup, is graphite, and there is usually a spring between it and the ali bit that the lead plugs into. there may be resistance there but some continuity would be expected (maybe a K or two?)

Quote:

Did that, no continuity to the outside of the curve (ie, the edge of it)


weird.. should be metal there....can you get a pic?
Quote:


Ahhh, we were wondering whether there was gap or not
Thanks for clearing that up


no wuckers.

good luck! i hate ignition issues Sad
Cya, Stewart
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sideshow
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Re: Distributor and Rotor Continuity Thu, 19 February 2004 21:29 Go to previous messageGo to next message
if u dont have ignitors then how will u get spark

what model engine and ecu do u have

and is it std wiring and ecu
or aftermarket

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CrUZsida
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Re: Distributor and Rotor Continuity Fri, 20 February 2004 00:32 Go to previous messageGo to next message
sideshow wrote on Fri, 20 February 2004 05:29

if u dont have ignitors then how will u get spark

what model engine and ecu do u have

and is it std wiring and ecu
or aftermarket



1UZ, Aftermarket, Delco
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CrUZsida
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Re: Distributor and Rotor Continuity Fri, 20 February 2004 01:00 Go to previous message
Ok, let me clear this up a bit Stewart

On this pic of the dizzy cap, I have continuity between the lead post, and point B, but no continuity between the lead post and point A (ie, no continuity between A and B, and that little pad on mine is still attached)

http://oz-enet.com.au/~peewee/dizzycap.jpg

Now to the rotor.

I have continuity between A and B, but not between A and C

http://oz-enet.com.au/~peewee/rotorarm.jpg

These are not 1uz stuff, I just found random pics off the net

Hope this helps
New parts are $40 each for dizzy caps, and $67 each for rotor arms, but I'd have to wait for them to come in from overeast
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