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Location:
South Australia
Registered:
July 2002
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Re: ST162 dedicated thread
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Wed, 30 June 2004 11:42
 
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sik_sx -> basic formula is as such
stock manifold = very tame
4-2-1 extractors = good flow
4-1 extractors = very good flow
Perhaps you didn't quite get what I said...what I meant was the difference between the 4-2-1 and 4-1 will be minimal until you actually are generating enough flow through the head to make the exhaust manifold a significant enough restriction to require a better design.
A search might clear this up  (I'm so sick of saying that)
Check the tech & conversions section for more generalised questions such as those. On about page 5 or 6 of this very thread, I think some guy already went over the whole "stock exhaust manifold isn't as good as an aftermarket set of extractors" thing.
Hope this clears it all up for ya! Good luck 
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Location:
Melbourne
Registered:
December 2003
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Re: ST162 dedicated thread
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Thu, 01 July 2004 00:55
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Okay, so i take my car in to get up on a hoist to check out some oil leaks - find out its my power steer pump(well we think it is) and another couple of leaks. Also im having huge blowby problems thru the head. So i need a new pump (875 + GST new!!!!) and gaskets all round!!!!So im in dire need of a good 2nd hand one if anybody has one??please!!!!!!also, Rob, whats the go with ur catch can, apparently i can just use a plastic container with some tubing, this true? And would gettin my head recoed (ie cleaned n valves replaced) would it be expensive and beneficial to my problems? Fark...this is gonna be expensive.
Any help would be appreciated. Thanx guys
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Location:
Adelaide - Race Central
Registered:
June 2004
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Re: ST162 dedicated thread
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Thu, 01 July 2004 04:18
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hello again,
I disagree with the 4-1 being best flow. I am almost certain that 4-2-1 is MUCH better. read around and you'll read that exhaust gasses being smoothley brought together is much better than it all trying to squeeze into a pipe of so so diameter. My exhaust was done by Exhaust Technology in Adelaide and which included a 4-2 extractors, followed by a 2-1, flexi, piping, magnaflow Hi-Flow cat, more piping and a twin tip exhaust. Sounds sweet!!! 2.5' through-out.
hey StuC, power steering leakage is a common problem in our cars. deal with it once and if it happens again...leave it, as for cost in rebuilding head..........haha, 3s-ge's are very expensive engines to rebuild, as i found out the hardest of all ways. A chick with a sw20 mr2 came in to work and had spent $7000 on rebuilding her 3s-ge. admitedly, I had spent more, but...what can ya do? make sure you have a good mechanic coz tuning the cams is a tedious task and something you want done correctly as it means precious kilowatts. since the heads' off, get it port and polished. well worth it!!!
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Location:
South Australia
Registered:
July 2002
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Re: ST162 dedicated thread
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Thu, 01 July 2004 04:34
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No way would it cost $7000 to rebuild a 3S-GE unless you are a total sucker (sorry to whoever is a total sucker). if you DIY the rebuild, you could get that down to about 2500 for a total recondition, and to charge $4500 on top of that for labour is total daylight robbery.
I got my head reco for like $300-$400 (I took most of it apart myself though).
As for the $875 power steering pump, don't even bother. If it is just leaking from a worn seal, then you can get a reseal kit for them from toyota for like $50 or something and then you just need to take it apart and put all the new seal in yourself.
If it's got worse wear (like the shaft or something) then you could pick a second hand one up for $90 and give that a shot.
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Location:
South Australia
Registered:
July 2002
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Re: ST162 dedicated thread
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Thu, 01 July 2004 04:48
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| Quote: |
I am almost certain that 4-2-1 is MUCH better. read around and you'll read that exhaust gasses being smoothley (sic)brought together is much better than it all trying to squeeze into a pipe of so so diameter.
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Oh yeah, as for the 4-2-1 vs 4-1 stakes...I think whoever said that is missing the point of even length extractors. The concept behind the extractors being of equal length is such that the gases will pass through with minimal interference with one another. When you introduce two more junctions than the 4-1 system, you often end up significantly altering the frequency and flow curve of the pulses of exhaust gas that arrive at the final 2-1 junction, such that they will cause interference with one another - this causes 'back pressure' (I term I don't really like). Whereas a straight 4-1 system will suffer that issue far less.
There is no need to 'squeeze' the gases either. At any given time, the flow through the 4-1 junction should be (approximately) equal to the flow of single cylinder, thus unless the diameter of your exit flange is smaller than that of a single cylinders exhaust manifold flange, then there should be very little restriction due to the 4-1 layout.
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Location:
Adelaide - Race Central
Registered:
June 2004
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Re: ST162 dedicated thread
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Thu, 01 July 2004 05:57
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Still disagree, sorry mate!!
i dont know much about the whole exhaust theory, but my arguement lays with the pro. Go to ET and talk to "Markie" Mark. from a person that lives off engine piping, i find his knowledge hard press to argue with. they are located along Goodwood rd.
As for more than $7k for rebuild. no doubt it will be cheaper to DIY. But i dont have all the equipment and also not 'nuff detailed knowledgde to do it all. I also wanted the car back asap. For my car, only the best work on it, ........and *sob*sob* I'm not one of the best. also the K&N oil filter came in, $20, not too bad!
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Location:
South Australia
Registered:
July 2002
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Re: ST162 dedicated thread
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Thu, 01 July 2004 06:21
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I know where they are mate I recommend them...and I'll be sure to have a chat with him about it!
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Location:
Melbourne
Registered:
December 2003
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Re: ST162 dedicated thread
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Thu, 01 July 2004 06:58
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Well that 965 for the pump is definately out of the question - ive been quoted 1502nd hand with 3mnth warranty so i might take that, but il get it out first and check those seals. As for the other gaskets, il let the mechs deal with that coz they 'already replaced' some. the guys are good but i think they should come with some sorta wormanship warranty???? Oh, and the head i was plannin on taking out myself anyway - Will get the dags cleaned up while its off too. Havent had a chance to check the manual; but is the pump hard to take out??
Cheers guys
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Location:
South Australia
Registered:
July 2002
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Re: ST162 dedicated thread
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Thu, 01 July 2004 07:11
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Yeah it's a little nasty...First off, get the east-west suspension cross member off (you'll need a breaker bar or a very hardcore air-driven socket) I think they are maybe 19mm, there are 4 nuts and 2 bolts. You may need to get the north south x-member out too (can't remember)...this is a case of a spanner and breaker bar too (need to get those pesky engine mounts out).
Once those two are off it gets a bit easier.
Grab one of the hoses on top of the power steering pump and disconnect it and drain the whole thing of fluid - there will probably be some left in the other hose as well but just disconnect it from the top near the brake booster (alot easier to get to).
Alternative to that step is to get a long thin plastic hose with a pump attatched to the end and feed it as far down the power steering fluid hoses as possible and pump the fluid out.
Then take off the two rubber vacuum hoses connected to the bottom of the power steering pump (they just get in the way)
Next best I find is to get the bottom mounting bolt and loosen it off so that you can slacken the belt and take the belt off.
Then after that get a 12mm (I think) combination spanner and try to get cracking on the top mounting bolt, it's way up there and is a pain to get to - you may have to be a bit careful and start it off on a bit of an angle, but it's not so bad from there on, 1/8th of a turn at a time be prepared for your arm to be stuffed afterwards.
Remove the bottom moutning bolt now, once all that's done, pull it off and the remaining connected hose through and voila. Put it upside down in a bucket to drain remaining fluid out.
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Location:
Melbourne
Registered:
December 2003
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Re: ST162 dedicated thread
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Thu, 01 July 2004 07:20
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MMM, sounds like fun - Dont suppose u wanna come down to Melbourne and do it for me?.....no, seriously?K, im guessing its a lot easier to do in the air.Il have to look at that one i guess. Looks like il be pricing a gasket kit tomorrow morn n jacking her up. Il be taking my rocker cover off too n fix that gasket. Off comes the head, looks like no work for me for a while!!!!
thanx for the info FWDboy.
Any ideas about that catch can?
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Location:
South Australia
Registered:
July 2002
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Re: ST162 dedicated thread
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Thu, 01 July 2004 07:24
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Yeah I did it with the car up on ramps just as long as you can crawl under it's not so bad
Want my patented tips for taking the head off too??? There's alot to it actually, it's definitely more painful than the power steering pump...
Can you say - cam timing cover and cam belt 
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Location:
Melbourne
Registered:
December 2003
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Re: ST162 dedicated thread
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Thu, 01 July 2004 07:29
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FFFFFFAAAAAAARRRRRRRKKKKKKK!!!!i didnt want to have to touch the cam belts?Damn it, why do the engine bays have to be soooo small?Damn japanese people and they're small hands (sorry if i offend any japanese people) that would be great if u could do a quick write-up on the head removal. Il be forever in ur debt!I need all the help i can get.
Cheers
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Location:
South Australia
Registered:
July 2002
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Re: ST162 dedicated thread
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Thu, 01 July 2004 07:34
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Yeah - I'll get to that for ya! I'll do it tomorrow and get a few photos when I have some light...It's not too bad really once you've done it once. Putting said head back on isn't too bad aside from the cam timing!!! That shiznit is evil.
You'll be glad to know that removing the power steering pump does make it easier
There are a couple of issues though - it's probably easiest to do it with the intake manifold still attached, the intake manifold is slightly hard to get off (lots of bolts that are in hard to reach places) but if you are willing to do that first it may make things easier (I did it with intake manifold attached, I can't compare the two methods unfortunately).
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Location:
South Australia
Registered:
July 2002
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Location:
Melb, Victoria
Registered:
April 2004
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Location:
South Australia
Registered:
July 2002
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Re: ST162 dedicated thread
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Thu, 01 July 2004 14:17
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Can't see pics???
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Location:
Wahroonga
Registered:
June 2003
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Re: ST162 dedicated thread
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Thu, 01 July 2004 14:39
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u have to type them in to the address bar and they work, dam it was a bitch, i got 1 in and gave up.
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Location:
South Australia
Registered:
July 2002
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Location:
South Australia
Registered:
July 2002
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Re: ST162 dedicated thread
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Thu, 01 July 2004 15:00
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Nope they don't work either...
What's the score? I just get '403 forbidden'?
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Location:
Gold Coast
Registered:
January 2003
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Re: ST162 dedicated thread
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Thu, 01 July 2004 15:12
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man for 7000 u could get fordged rods, pistons, balanced crank and all that shit block o ringed and all that shit and some head work and all that, fucking hell.
Al well man Aust162 gut that cat while u there, i was dumb and did not do that, lol.
Also i did not read the whole extrator issue but RULE OF THUMB is, 4-2-1 for better mid range and even top end, but 4-1 for pure top end flow, that is known and common fact!
Nezza 
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Location:
Melb, Victoria
Registered:
April 2004
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Location:
Wahroonga
Registered:
June 2003
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Re: ST162 dedicated thread
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Fri, 02 July 2004 00:50
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careful, if u gut the cat before u get an emissions test done u will probally fail the test. that is if ur state requires it done.
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Location:
South Australia
Registered:
July 2002
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Re: ST162 dedicated thread
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Fri, 02 July 2004 03:41
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Okay here's my step-by-step guide to taking the head off of an ST162. (some bits taken from distant memory) I may have forgotten to mention a few wires here and there but you won't have much trouble figuring that stuff out.
It seems well worthwhile to disconnect the intake manifold from the head first.
Disconnect the battery first before doing any work.
Then remove the power steering pump as previously described.
Drain the radiator and remove the upper water junction thing attached to the block (see picture 1) also disconnect the oil pressure guage wire.
Next task, remove the exhaust manifold...you'd think it was straightforward and it mostly is.
Remove the EGO sensor (that thing plugged into your exhaust manifold!). Then take off the heatshield if you still have it.
Next step to take off the exhaust is the alternator Disconnect the earthing wire and the wiring harness from the alt. Then slacken off the alternator belt (the adjuster is located to the left of underneath the alternator). Then attack the bolts that hold the alternator in place, I can't remember clearly but there may be a bit of a struggle with the bottom one because the exhaust is in the way (see picture 2) - unfortunately you can't remove the exhaust until the alternator is out of the way! Try to clear up as much room as possible and get all the wires unclipped and out of the way.
One the alternator + alternator bracket is off, then take to the exhaust manifold brace bolts...there is one on the block and one attached the the alternator housing (which you should have got off already). Then take the EGR (that brass pipe) off, you made need to loosen it at the connection to the intake manifold so it can pivot. I find it's easiest to disconnect the manifold exit flange from the rest of the exhaust, so do that first - go from underneath and use some very long extensions and a 14mm socket to get to the three nuts. Once this is done you can get the nuts attaching the exhaust to the head and then take the whole manifold off.
If you don't want to take the exhaust manifold entirely off, then you may not have to, but there are a few pipes for the airconditioning (I think) that lie underneath the exhaust manifold, these may or may not prove to be a problem later (see picture 1) - it's up to you. Hold off on taking the exhaust manifold off until you can clear this up if you don't want the hassle!
*phew*
Next thing is to tackle the intake manifold. With both the engine x-members already off, this isn't so bad. The intake manifold is held on by 10 x 12mm nuts/bolts (for example see picture 7). The trick is that you need to disconnect the brakect holding the VSVs hiding underneath (see picture 3) so you can get to a few hidden bolts/nuts. Get the idle and t-vis VSVs off and it should be reasonably smooth sailing if you have the right combination of extensions, spanners and sockets. The intake manifold is braced to the head and the block, the ones on the block should be pretty obvious when looking underneath, the brace to the head is near the water junction and is usually used to brace the EGR pipe (see picture 4).
Careful taking the intake manifold off initially, there are many hoses and wires so you may need to be a little patient and cautious and just go through the problems one by one. Trust me though, it's easier to do it this way that to take the head out with the intake manifold still on.
You may or may not need to take the dizzy out when you want to manouvre the head off, if you do need to, it's a case of allen head bolts and a little green connector (see picture 5) and the timing adjustment bolts. Just keep that in mind for later if you have to do it.
So we have the intake off, the exhaust either off or disconnected, the alternator is off, the power steering pump is off...all that's left is the cam timing belts.
This isn't all bad, except for the cam timing belt cover - it's a bitch. You should support the engine from underneath as by this stage it'll be holding on by just the east and west mounts! First off you need to remove the east engine mount, having removed the power steering pump will help as you won't have two big-ass tubes in the way. You may need to disconnect the power steering fluid reservoir from it's home on the side of the engine bay in order to manouvre the rubber mount out. There are two nuts underneath that are attached to the engine mount, tackle those last! Once the rubber mount is out, you can see the remaining bolt holding the cam cover on (well there should be one there). There are two longer bolts at the top, and 3 (?) shorter ones, one is set in a bit and you need a socket to get to it, one is right behind the engine mount, and the other is near the alternator (see picture 6)
Anyway, once the bolts are out, fiddle around until you successfully pull the cam timing cover out. From there you can see the tensioner pulley and the two cam pulleys (see picture 6). The cam pulleys have their own timing markers from factory so you shouldn't have to mark anything in that regard. Undo the bolt on the tensioner pulley and you may have to fiddle with the spring (try to avoid this) slacken off the timing belts and pull them off the cams (this may be tricky).
And by now, you should have done enough to get the head off?!
Pictures
1 2 3   
4 5 6   
7 
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Location:
South Australia
Registered:
July 2002
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Re: ST162 dedicated thread
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Fri, 02 July 2004 03:50
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Oh yeah - it might be a good idea to put the thing on TDC on number 1 piston first...it's generally a two person job, but for taking the head apart, you can get close enough just by attacking it from underneath and feeling it out (keep turning and use your finger/fingernail to feel out the little mark on the harmonic balancer). YOu can tell it's on TDC on number 1 by either checking the dizzy, or looking at the cams (the cams for the number 1 cylinder should be facing away from one another).
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Location:
South Australia
Registered:
July 2002
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Re: ST162 dedicated thread
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Fri, 02 July 2004 03:57
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Any more qs.?
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Location:
Melbourne
Registered:
June 2004
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Re: ST162 dedicated thread
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Fri, 02 July 2004 04:40
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| 3S-GE_Man wrote on Fri, 02 July 2004 01:12 |
Also i did not read the whole extrator issue but RULE OF THUMB is, 4-2-1 for better mid range and even top end, but 4-1 for pure top end flow, that is known and common fact!
Nezza
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Yeah, I think HSV did a lot of playing around with 4-2-1 V.s. 4-1 extractors on an engine dyno, and found basically what 3S-GE_Man said. With both systems tuned to make peak h.p. at the same revs, the 4-2-1 beefed out the mid range alot more, with the 4-1 only coming in strong in the last 1,500rpm. I think they found peak-flow was only marginally better in the 4-1 (same primary and collector diameter-pipes).
This is from Pacemaker's website, f.a.q.
| Quote: |
2. What is the difference between a TRI-Y and a 4-into-1 design?
A 4-into-1 design is perhaps the most traditional design. This design is common to the US market and is well used within the drag race fraternity. The basic principle behind the design is that the scavenging effect within the collector cone effects the three remaining pipes (in a V8 half), instead of limiting the pulse to the very next pipe in the sequence. This generally results in a header that performs very well in the mid-range to top end of the engines performace.
A TRI-Y on the other hand splits the firing order evenly and uses the secondary pipes as sequential collectors. This results in generally a greater scavenging effect due to the fact that scavenging is achieved at 2 different points in the header design, firstly at the primary to the secondary collector and secondly to the secondary outlet collector. Generally this improves torque in the lower to mid range perfomance of the engine.
Both designs are usually more efficient than a standard manifold and both offer distinctly different advantages.
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So there you go. -And they do nothing BUT design and make extractors!
-Some applications are restricted to 4-1 only, to get the Cat-converters close to the engine, to pass emissions. This is just to get the cat's hot quickly at startup, and keep 'em REAL hot during running.
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Location:
Melbourne
Registered:
December 2003
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Re: ST162 dedicated thread
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Sun, 04 July 2004 23:44
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Thanx heaps for that FWD boy!Thats unreal. Still looks like a shit of a job, oh well - looks like the car will be off the road for a while. Cheers again mate
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Location:
South Australia
Registered:
July 2002
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Re: ST162 dedicated thread
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Mon, 05 July 2004 06:04
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Yeah it is a little bit painful - putting it back together is also painful...
Good luck with it all if you are still going to attempt it!
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Location:
Canberra
Registered:
April 2003
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Re: ST162 dedicated thread
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Mon, 05 July 2004 14:13
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hmmm nice write up FWDboy, I would hate to do that, will one day on the 4a though, personally I would just drop the engine from the car, I have droped my 3sge/gte so many times now I can do it in about 2hrs, no bad. Makes it heaps easier to work on.
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Location:
South Australia
Registered:
July 2002
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Re: ST162 dedicated thread
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Tue, 06 July 2004 00:39
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Yeah, you can get the head off in about 1.5 hours I think...probably in an hour or so if you really know what you're doing. I agree though, it's usually a way better option to get the engine out of the engine bay before working on it. Even so, you have to do quite a bit to get it out of a 3S-GE or any FWD car for that matter - I guess you leave the g/box on, take out the shafts and disconnect everything and take it out from underneath?
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Location:
Epping, Sydney
Registered:
April 2003
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Re: ST162 dedicated thread
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Tue, 06 July 2004 01:11
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and the injector rail is SUCH a pain compared to say, even a *cough* 4AGE
I left the lower fuel line thing that screws onto the bottom of = top decision so much easier to re-install
and I had to buy one of those funky mirror things
wErd to wiso, devil rolla for their help!
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Location:
South Australia
Registered:
July 2002
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Re: ST162 dedicated thread
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Tue, 06 July 2004 01:24
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Yeah i can't clearly remember having trouble with the fuel injector rail...my memory of the whole effort is slowly glossing over
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Location:
Canberra
Registered:
April 2003
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Re: ST162 dedicated thread
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Tue, 06 July 2004 07:15
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Yeah thats the only way I do it, leave the gearbox on, disconect everything, leave the loom on the engine, drop the lot to the ground and lift the car over and roll it back. easeist way to do it.
Oh Rob your just saying that because you had to go and do it twice because you didn't get the first injector in right the first time.  
np
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Location:
Gold Coast
Registered:
January 2003
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Re: ST162 dedicated thread
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Tue, 06 July 2004 13:51
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| jonchai wrote on Thu, 01 July 2004 15:57 |
Still also the K&N oil filter came in, $20, not too bad!
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I've asking supercheapa nd autobarn a billion times and they go they don't make a k&n oil filter for the 3s-ge/3s-gte! where u get???
Nezza
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Location:
South Australia
Registered:
July 2002
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Re: ST162 dedicated thread
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Tue, 06 July 2004 14:25
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Hey - excuse me, but I'm going to hijack this thread and ask about ST165s...
Err, I'm getting a 3inch dump pipe + hiflow cat, resonator (all mild steel) and a muffler...no problems with the price there, BUT I have a few options with mufflers, but I'm really skeptical that you get what you pay for...
3" Aussie Mufflers Mandrel Aussie Box -> $600ish
3" X-Force -> $700
3" Jun BL -> $980-$1480
Honestly? Is it really worth going for the last two...I'm guessing that's more of a 'looks' thing and there is almost no functional difference between any of those options.
I figure there's a few lads with 3S-GTEs here that may be able to help me. Everything else will be standard for the time being (heh).
Cheers.
(p.s. Yeah I know I should get the car FIRST, but the quote that I got for everything else lasts for 90 days so I figured why not have a look-see).
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Location:
Melb, Victoria
Registered:
April 2004
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Re: ST162 dedicated thread
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Tue, 06 July 2004 23:51
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hey nezza go on the knfilters.com site and it will tell u the oil filter u need.they do make them...  , dont know what those dudes from autobarn and supercheap hav been saying. heres the link:
http://www.knfilterchargers.com/search/product.asp x?Prod=HP-1003
same part no. for the 3sgte's and 3sge's i think..
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Location:
Melb, Victoria
Registered:
April 2004
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Re: ST162 dedicated thread
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Tue, 06 July 2004 23:57
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hey fwdboy, why spend so much on a muffler?? and why are u going for a 3in exhaust?why not 2.5 or something? i'm getting 2.5in mandrel bent system on my gen2 3sgte because i've been told that the 3in will be too "laggy" down-low befor boost. do u plan on highly modifying the motor?
p.s get the car first
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Location:
Gold Coast, QLD
Registered:
April 2004
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Re: ST162 dedicated thread
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Wed, 07 July 2004 01:13
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Hey Guys, thought I might jump in here for a bit of advice.
My car leaks a fair bit of oil from around the oil sump gasket area and since a mate here at work has a pit in his shed I am keen to take it off and redo the gasket this coming weekend.
As far as I know, there is no cork oil pan gasket available for the 3SGE (although I have seen one for the 3SFE), and silicon gasket goo is the way to go. Anyone have an opinion on which is better? And which silicon should be used?
I am just wondering what's involved in actually getting the sump off, and if there is anything I should look out for or be careful of. I can see that I will need to remove the north-south crossmember which will also take out two of the engine mounts as well. Will the engine still be supported OK by the other two mounts, or should I really support it while the crossmember and mounts are out? It also looks like the exhaust will be in the way as well, does it need to be removed too? (or maybe just loosened?)
Would love to hear from anyone with first hand experience!
Cheers,
Matt
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Location:
South Australia
Registered:
July 2002
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Re: ST162 dedicated thread
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Wed, 07 July 2004 04:00
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AustST162 -> Laggy before boost - pfft - every turbocharged car is laggy before boost, that's why they have boost
Apparently they are pretty limited as to what they can put on the 3S-GTE because most of them sound really tinny/shit...personally I don't want to spend more than the $600 one! Less would be better, if anyone has tried any cheaper mufflers that don't sound like a wet-fart then let me know.
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Location:
South Australia
Registered:
July 2002
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Re: ST162 dedicated thread
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Wed, 07 July 2004 04:05
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Oh yeah, and as for the oil-pan gasket....use goo!!! If you are actually having trouble leaking from the sump and it's not coming from higher up, then I suggest you put the sump on a REALLY flat surface and make sure that it sits cleanly on top of it...it is REALLY easy to bend those things and stuff the seal up when you are trying to pry them off of the block. It may be the case that whoever previously installed the sump wasn't so cautious.
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Location:
Canberra
Registered:
April 2003
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Re: ST162 dedicated thread
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Wed, 07 July 2004 04:09
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Yeah FWDboy go Aussie, they make the best sytem for a GT4, thats what everyone on all the GT4 forums reckons.
My muffler sounds sweet, has a real roar rather than the tin, but I only have a 2.5
Aust162 a 3" zorst won't make it any more laggy than they are at standard, it may actually improve it because quicker to flow out of the turbo, I have a 2.5 and that is alright for me, for a while.
Matt, yeah you'll have to remove the nort south member, the engine supports fine on the side mounts, I usually remove the section of exhaust, Go to repco or whatever and read up which goo will suit your application.
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Location:
South Australia
Registered:
July 2002
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Re: ST162 dedicated thread
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Wed, 07 July 2004 04:13
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Two more things i forgot to post...
Firstly, I have never had any trouble leaving the engine by two mounts, it's not like the full force of the engine rests on those mounts either, there's plenty of stuff which takes a bit of the load!
Secondly, AusST162 -> I am planning on modifying the engine quite a bit and eventually run a bit more boost as well. Seeing as it will eventually used for more competitive purposes I'm not overly fussed about off-boost performance, I'm more interested in good on-boost performance...if you think that 2.5" will be just as good as 3" when it's running a bit more boost then let me know
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Location:
South Australia
Registered:
July 2002
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Re: ST162 dedicated thread
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Wed, 07 July 2004 04:20
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Wiso -> That's sort of what I thought about the 'laggy' off-boost thing, there's never going to be huge problems with a lack of back-pressure when you have a turbocharger etc etc. So Aussie is the go? I'll wait for a second opinion as well if you don't mind
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Location:
Canberra
Registered:
April 2003
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Re: ST162 dedicated thread
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Wed, 07 July 2004 04:23
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nahh man deffinatly go 3", with 2.5" I can feel it starting to restrict at even 12psi.
3" is actually a really good size for the GT4, Go an Aussie exhaust sytem though, they make a full system for the ST165, probably the best availably for teh money.
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Location:
Canberra
Registered:
April 2003
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Re: ST162 dedicated thread
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Wed, 07 July 2004 04:26
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if you want a second opinion man go jump on the Alltrac.net forums and Yahoo GT4 forums, They will give you a 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th... etc opinion.
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Location:
South Australia
Registered:
July 2002
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Re: ST162 dedicated thread
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Wed, 07 July 2004 04:27
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What comes in the 'full' system? (I've never really shopped for a big-ass exhaust before). I've got a quote for a custom 3" dump pipe flex with hi-flow cat and resonator for $800, then the muffler is added onto that (so something like $1400 all up for the aussie thing).
I guess a 'full' system would be like the dump pipe, flex, rezzy, muffler and .... ???
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Location:
Canberra
Registered:
April 2003
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Re: ST162 dedicated thread
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Wed, 07 July 2004 04:34
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hmm $800 bucks for that, good price, a custom dump pipe will usually cost you about $600->$800 for the ST165, most place won't do it for less than that. The mid pipe is the real problem, very hard to keep it 3" with out carefull manufacture, for a 2.5" it costed me like $200 and that wasn't even that great of a job.
The full system is exactly as it says, full system dump pipe back, cause all GT4's have the same floor plan they just have it made to the shape, send it to you and you fit it yourself.
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Location:
Canberra
Registered:
April 2003
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Re: ST162 dedicated thread
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Wed, 07 July 2004 04:40
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They only have the dump pipe for the st165, but the st185 exhaust is the same, I know a guy who used it on an st165 and it fitted perfectly
http://vs84208.server-store.com/store/products/cat egory1.inetstore
a buit expensive in stainless but if you cantact them the can make it in mild steel
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Location:
South Australia
Registered:
July 2002
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Re: ST162 dedicated thread
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Wed, 07 July 2004 04:41
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One last thing - it's worthwhile getting the dump pipe ceramic coated isn't it?! Obviously that'll cost extra but you get what you pay for right
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Location:
Canberra
Registered:
April 2003
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Location:
Wahroonga
Registered:
June 2003
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Re: ST162 dedicated thread
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Wed, 07 July 2004 08:00
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i know i am getting it done when i get a high flow cat and dump pipe.
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Location:
South Australia
Registered:
July 2002
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Re: ST162 dedicated thread
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Wed, 07 July 2004 08:19
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Yeah, I was planning on getting it ceramic coated myself...
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Location:
Melbourne
Registered:
December 2003
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Re: ST162 dedicated thread
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Thu, 08 July 2004 02:50
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Matt, i did this a couple of months ago - the only annoying thing is oil dripping in ur face - i used a cork gasket off a 3sfe but silicon is the best stuff, try 3M cos thats what toyota uses from factory. As FWDboy said, make sure that the flange is all straight and sits flush before u put goo on and try sticking it on. Also its pretty cramped under there around the g/box so ul end up with skinned knuckels. Also its usually a good idea to soak the exhaust bolts in a heap of WD40 or somethin cos they're usually pretty rusted up. Good luck to ya
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Location:
Melb, Victoria
Registered:
April 2004
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Re: ST162 dedicated thread
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Thu, 08 July 2004 02:55
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fwdboy=> i understand that if u plan on modifying the engine and running more/higher boost than stock, then 3" would be the way to go. that is why i asked
| Aust162 wrote on Wed, 07 July 2004 09:57 |
do u plan on highly modifying the motor?
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also as for noise levels. (E.P.A  ) i know almost any decent exhaust system is going to be over the legal limit.(i'm use to that thou ) but when i spoke to the exhaust place and told them i wanted a 3" system he said,"the cabin noise will be very loud", and then advised me stick with the 2.5". anyways i'm a bit confused now with what to go with 
my car is a daily driver, so running high boost probably wont be practical for me. eg. engine wear and petrol....
anyways i'll see what happens. what does everyone else think????
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Location:
Gold Coast
Registered:
January 2003
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Re: ST162 dedicated thread
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Thu, 08 July 2004 15:22
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Man nothing less than a 3in, u'll thank me later, lol. I tend to think smaller than 3in on a turb is a waste of time and money, in my opinion!
plus a resinator and good muf would make it quite nice in the cabin too!
everyone i hear with a gt-4/3s-gte gets a 2.5in system, i think everyone just sees the power fromt he 3s-gte and they are SCARIED! they telling us not to get 3in systems so there nissan and mitsushity crap can shit be the ones everyone goes for thus us not having good and huge selection of parts, THEY ARE SCARIED PEOPLE!
And thanks about the k&n filter info, she'll be getting next time, i like that 1in nut on top, make removeal VERY EASY!
Nezza
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Location:
South Australia
Registered:
July 2002
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Re: ST162 dedicated thread
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Fri, 09 July 2004 02:38
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Scared of a 3S-GTE??? Not a chance, the GT4 will be slow compared to my dad's WRX
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Location:
Elwood, Melb
Registered:
August 2003
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Re: ST162 dedicated thread
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Fri, 09 July 2004 02:57
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I agree with you Nezz, I'm not going for anything smaller than 3" there won't be enough flow otherwise especially with a T engine, though i think the stock piping is 2 1/2, Id always be going for something bigger though obviously.
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Location:
Melb, Victoria
Registered:
April 2004
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Re: ST162 dedicated thread
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Fri, 09 July 2004 10:48
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ok next question: is there any point/or gains to have an exhaust start at 2.5" then increase to 3" at the rear of the car, or vice versa?
will there be a noticable volume or sound difference between 2.5 and 3"?, deeper etc.
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Location:
Melb, Victoria
Registered:
April 2004
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Location:
Canberra
Registered:
April 2003
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Re: ST162 dedicated thread
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Fri, 09 July 2004 11:56
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aust162 no ther is no point in that at all reverse that order thought, you have a 3" dump and mid, then 2.5" after the cat, that works as good as a 3" right through believe it or not. Cause most gains in power from flow are made up just after the turbo, after the cat you don't get much gain, thats why cat back systems are pointless, they only make the car louder and sik (for all you rice bitches out there).
I have a friend JustenGT4, on his grpA 185 with gen3, he has 3" dump and then the rest a 68mm system, he know about this shit he reckons that is optimum for the GT4 (before you people say he is an idiot, mind you his is incredibly worked and makes about 400+hp at the wheels, he said there is not enough gain to bother going to a 3" right through)
thats basically what I am gonna do with mine a 3" dump and then keep the rest of my 2.5"
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