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Toymods member
I supported Toymods
Location:
Rydalmere, NSW
Registered:
May 2002
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Run-in (or break-in) method
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Mon, 29 March 2004 14:20
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After hearing a lot of conjecture on what is the best way to break-in an engine to ensure it has the best lifespan, I've learned there are a few very valid schools of thought. I already asked the question on run-in duration, but what about run-in method?
What I'm looking for is what type of oil to use for how long, how many changes inside of what distance, etc. For this exercise, the engine is a 3S-GTE with modified ECU (Blitz-chipped) and all Jap-spec fittings including CT20-B turbo.
Just the facts please guys...
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Location:
Brisbane
Registered:
February 2003
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Re: Run-in (or break-in) method
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Tue, 30 March 2004 02:58
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...i thought the other thread covered this but what the heck...
-use penzoil or similar running-in oil (is usually a monograde with few friction modifier additives)
-dump oil & filter after 300km
-while the hood is up, check coolant for polutants or excessive particulates
-replace oil/ filter with Mobil 1 or Mobil S (or what ever you were going to run normally)
-dump oil & filter after 1000km
-replace oil & filter with your normal oil
-replace oil & filter every 5000k or sooner if oil gets sticky & black.
There is probably a red-line running-in oil for turbo's but it would cost you arm+leg+left-testicle as that racing goo is pricy stuff.
...and do all the stuff we talked about in the other thread.
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Location:
Lost in the K hole
Registered:
May 2002
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Location:
Sydney
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: Run-in (or break-in) method
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Tue, 30 March 2004 06:30
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Step 1 : use run in oil for the first 100 K's
Step 2 : replace oil and filter with what you will
normally run.
Step 3 : Take to race track and Thrash the crap out of it..
taking it a little bit easy for the first couple of laps first of course, then get it stretch its legs for about 20 laps..
Not that thats how i run my engines in  
Ben
AE86 Trueno 4AGE
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Club Member
Location:
sydney
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: Run-in (or break-in) method
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Tue, 30 March 2004 08:19
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hmm now i know why that seal went 
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Registered:
June 2002
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something about some method ???
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Tue, 30 March 2004 11:14
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Run in...
all these (1,2,3,4,5) steps are gonna do is run it out.
12km on the dyno (15mins) light load.
drain out the 100% mineral base oil.Add synthetic plus a new filter.
back on the dyno for some 28psi pulls.
run a 10 at the drags the next night.
engine was less than 100kms old
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Toymods member
I supported Toymods
Location:
Rydalmere, NSW
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: Run-in (or break-in) method
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Tue, 30 March 2004 14:05
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Ed and Chuckster, yes I know we've been over this before, but I wanted to sift some more black and white out of the grey stuff. I have managed to ascertain that you DON'T run in your engine on first startup with synthetic. Someone else told me that you need to keep your car revving between 2000 and 2500 for about 15-20 minutes. How valid is this?
Thanks for the responses so far guys.  I'm starting to work out a pattern here, excluding the fact that I'm not near a race track.
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Location:
Lost in the K hole
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: Run-in (or break-in) method
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Wed, 31 March 2004 06:31
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| BigFella_73 wrote on Wed, 31 March 2004 00:05 |
Someone else told me that you need to keep your car revving between 2000 and 2500 for about 15-20 minutes. How valid is this?
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crap
you want to warm the car up before taking it out for its virgin belting. this should be a high idle, but you should fluctuate the revs as much as possible. the key is not to wait too long before actually loading everything up. just long enough so the oil is warm, and circulating properly, maintaining good oil pessure etc. 15-20 mins fast idle? no way!! maybe 5 tops. seriously its in about the first 20mins of an engines life that the rings bed - (actually earlier, but its hard to get it out and running that fast). dont waste precious 'high comb pressure' time sitting about twiddling your thumbs.
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Registered:
March 2004
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Location:
Sydney
Registered:
September 2003
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Re: Run-in (or break-in) method
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Wed, 31 March 2004 09:32
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My mate Craig aka Turbocamry is driving up with a rebuilt ie. port polished head, pistons etc 3sgte and is running it in on the way up too Dubbo too.
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Location:
Brisbane
Registered:
February 2003
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Re: Run-in (or break-in) method
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Wed, 31 March 2004 09:52
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BigFella_73: can you see the pattern emerging in the advice?
warm up engine
put it under variable load
avoid excessive idling
avoid loading engine at idle-speed revs
use suitable oil
remember, your rings bed in within seconds/minutes of first startup - 15min of idle will simply polish them up on a fast path to smokey engine. Engine bearings take longer, but the theory is the same (variable load, healthy revs, no lugging). Don't forget that part of the reason for a 'good thrashing' is to wear in the bearings while keeping the oil pressure up.
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Toymods member
I supported Toymods
Location:
Rydalmere, NSW
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: Run-in (or break-in) method
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Wed, 31 March 2004 11:19
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Interesting info - thanks again to chuckster, chas and ed_ma61. Very useful. Chas, did this guru dude recommend using just normal oil (ie. multigrade) or monograde running-in oil for the first run process?
Cheers guys.
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Location:
Lost in the K hole
Registered:
May 2002
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Toymods member
I supported Toymods
Location:
Rydalmere, NSW
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: Run-in (or break-in) method
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Wed, 31 March 2004 12:24
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Thanks for your reply ed, but the whole purpose of me posting this topic was to investigate the differences between one method of running-in versus another. One thing I can't understand is how everyone's opinions are so divided and splintered regarding facts about run-in's.  It's not a fact that I believe what you're saying, that's a given. It's more a point of why people run-in their engines the way they do, and the effect it has on the engine AFTER the run-in period (eg. longevity, performance, whether or not it goes bang, etc.).
Ed, if you know where I'm coming from on this, you'll understand that I do believe what you're saying. What I was looking for is justification for the reasons people bed-in their engines differently. Obviously the evidence points one general way, and that's abrasiveness to start with, but not for a long period... normal oil (mineral, 10W/30 perhaps?) for a period after that, and synthetic for the rest of it's life. Obviously oil filter changes in between as well.
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Location:
Lost in the K hole
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: Run-in (or break-in) method
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Wed, 31 March 2004 12:36
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sorry, that came off a little harsh - not intended. im taking time outs from a frustratin literature review of my own to post here - i guess theres a bit of carry over 
i know where your coming from, dont worry, and i agree theres 2 clearly separated schools of thought. but there is some common ground there too, ie oil selction, and regularity of oil changes.
and on that topic, if you really want to be pedantic, you should probably do an oil change straight after the first warm up, before the flogging... i dare you to resist going for a drive though - esp when the MO is to flog it "i have to, officer!"
if you hit google, i can tell you now youll find lots of actual evidence, usually measured in final peak cyl crcanking pressure, for the 'flog it' approach, and SFA for the 'volvo' approach.
just think to yourself... "what makes sense"
and the numbers are there to back it up
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Location:
1st street on the right
Registered:
November 2002
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Re: Run-in (or break-in) method
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Wed, 31 March 2004 13:43
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Just got a new car for the wife, X-trail. Serviceman said, "take it easy for the first 5000k's. Has running in oil you know, bring it back at 1000 for oil change" What about filter I asked?"Nah, that happens at 5000.
NO!
Sales guy says. "Give it a good run, hard if you can"
I said, firt oil change at 200ks with mineral mono & filter, then same at 500, and at 1000 if you won't do it.
"He says I guess you'll be bringing the oil to be used for services then?"
For the record at 200 the oils was definately contaminated, clear at pickup (6k's )
Better at 500, should be clean at 1000. Am I a freak, probably but I bet it's clean as and bedded very well.
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Registered:
March 2004
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Re: Run-in (or break-in) method
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Wed, 31 March 2004 22:57
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Do not use low viscousity monograde oil!
Use 20W/50 or 15W/40 high quality without any additives.
If you are really concerned do the short burst 50 -80 kph procedure, change oil and filter, then don't subject the engine to sustained redline or sustained heavy loads for the first 2000 klicks. Change oil and filter again before 500 klicks.
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Location:
Lost in the K hole
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: Run-in (or break-in) method
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Thu, 01 April 2004 06:05
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| Chas wrote on Thu, 01 April 2004 08:57 |
Do not use low viscousity monograde oil!
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explain?
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Registered:
March 2004
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