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Location:
Sydney
Registered:
July 2002
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Specific clutch question
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Mon, 05 April 2004 10:47
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I've got a very specific clutch problem.
Background:
MA70 with a 1UZ and R154 gearbox. Clutch is twin plate OS Giken (Carbon/Carbon) with a hydrollic thrust race. http://www.vss.com.au/supra/clutch.html
Now my thrust race just got replaced with a $600 new one after the previous one MELTED and leaked (possible on clutch).
Problem:
In 4th gear @ 60kms/hr if I put it at even half throttle the clutch will SLIP. Also slips at slower speeds in 4th and speeds up to about 100kms/hr, but most noticable at 60. In 1st/2nd/3rd its not as noticable.
Clutch feel is GONE. I can't feel when its engaging as much and sometimes in 1st it will STICK. Then when pumped down it will come back and be very sticky but still come out (like its sliding through old honey)
Now when the thrust race died it died while clutch was engaged so ended up driving and stopping a 1/2 hour later (was stuck in 5th on highway), then towed it to place to get replaced. On opening the small window at the bottom of the belhousing there was a LOT of fluid.
So far I've bled the clutch line and got it at the point I used to have it, and this has helped, but not enough.
I really don't want to pull the gearbox out myself, so will probably seek professional help.
Question:
Is there something I can do to fix it?
Is there a degreaser spray I can spray directly on the clutch?
Can a carbon/carbon clutch be BURNT like my brake pads are, and have a sheen on them that is making them slip?
Wheres a good clutch place in Sydney?
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I supported Toymods
Location:
I renounced punctuation
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: Specific clutch question
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Mon, 05 April 2004 11:05
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1) Short of making any adjustments (if it was out of adjustment), the only real option is to drop the box and have a look-see. Not palatable I agree.
2) Possibly Brakekleen. It is a spray on agent used to clean brake components. Check to see it is compatable with clutches. That said, it would be hard pressed to clean all four surfaces of 2 discs from a small inspection hole at the bottom of the gearbox....
3)It could happen that the surfaces are glazed and this happens in particular with ceramic button clutches. It is much less likely to occur with full face organic type clutches. The presence of "a lot of a fluid" (your words) makes me think this is very unlikely and that the fluid is the culprit. Certainly the fluid could have initiated some slippage which might have destroyed the surfaces. Need to look.
4)Can't help you there. Move to Melbourne. 
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Location:
Sydney
Registered:
July 2002
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Re: Specific clutch question
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Mon, 05 April 2004 13:20
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Thanks dave.
Found brakleen.
"CRC Non Chlorinated Brakleen has been specially formulated for use in areas where chlorinated solvents may cause a problem. It leaves no residue and cleans without disassembly. For use on brake linings, disc pads, rotors, clutch plates, callipers and cylinders "
http://www.crcindustries.com.au/catalogue.nsf/web_ brands/Brakleen+-+Non+Chlorinated?openDocument
I'll try it.
Does it just remove oil/grease?
Or is it slightly abrasive (helps glazed surfaces)?
Can I use it on my brakes to stop them squeeling?
Can I get it from autopro/supercrap or do I need to go direct to the supplier (was a sydney number, but don't know where)?
I think application wise I'll take that window off have the engine running (two plates of the clutch moving. Spray & hope. Test. If its any better I'll do it again.
Anyone else want a can of this & I'll bring it to Dubbo?
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I supported Toymods
Location:
I renounced punctuation
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: Specific clutch question
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Mon, 05 April 2004 21:33
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I've only ever used it to clean dusty brake components but it will get off relatively loose or light oil/grease. It might stop squealing in that it will remove the dust that sets up the vibrations that are the squealing noise (although I'd probably recommend some anti squeal plates and brake grease). You can get it from regular outlets like Repco.
It's not abrasive - it's just a solvent of some description.
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Location:
I wanna go Hawaiiiiii.......
Registered:
November 2003
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Re: Specific clutch question
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Mon, 05 April 2004 23:27
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I would be very careful spraying any sort of solvent onto clutch parts. Many still leave some residue behind, when assembling a clutch usually the last cleaning process is to use high quality paint thinners that will leave absolutely no trace.
I think your problem though is that there is still air in the system. That clutch should be able to hold many times more torque than your 1u can produce. So long as it was assembled carefully, contamination should not be a problem, leaving only a lazy slave which is slow to disengage, or air.
Bleed it again, and again. then replace the slave cylinder.
clean it and only then remove the box.
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Location:
I wanna go Hawaiiiiii.......
Registered:
November 2003
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Re: Specific clutch question
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Mon, 05 April 2004 23:31
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Also the new carbonics clutch materials are notorious for slipping when cold, often requiring a few big slips (or a burnout) to get em hot enough to work properly.
Perhapps the 1U doesnt make enough Mumbo to heat the plates ? 
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Location:
Perth
Registered:
October 2003
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Re: Specific clutch question
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Mon, 05 April 2004 23:44
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Your slipping problem is identical to mine, my car always comes home stinking like burning clutch, but you barely notice it while driving. Gotta get the time to pull it out and have a look.
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Location:
Sydney
Registered:
July 2002
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Re: Specific clutch question
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Tue, 06 April 2004 06:56
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Here I thought that CRC stuff was unique, but I found a can at the local Mobil service station.
Will try it tomorrow night.
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