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Location:
Perth WA
Registered:
April 2004
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 Help the NOOB :) with his AE112R
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Tue, 13 April 2004 14:46
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OK, I need some help, I am not mechanically orientated, but i need more ponies, my current hack is a 2001 Rolla with a 7A-FE Power Plant in it. Its running PULP and has a K&N Pod. I am putting new pedders springs on next week to give it a bit firmer rid and drop it 2inches. I now need more GO.. Any suggestions, budget is fairly limited at the moment, and I cant afford for the car to come off the road, as I work 6 days a week and have just bought a house (Bloody wife JJ 
Whats the best way to go? exhaust, plugs, leads? I aint after 500HP, just more go than stock (dream is to make a good street sleeper), Like i said up the top, I am a virgin when it comes to engines.. so please HELP
And if any one has already done this to a AE112R contact me, I need to get some prices so I dont scare myself too much!
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Location:
Sydney
Registered:
April 2003
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Re: Help the NOOB :) with his AE112R
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Tue, 13 April 2004 15:12
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you can get a new cat back exhaust fairly cheap if you are going for mild steel instead of stainless, cold air intake would be a good idea. these are the cheapest things i can think of.
if you are interested in further mods, do a search on this forum and on the net. anything is possible as long as you have the cash 
i hope this helps
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Location:
Perth WA
Registered:
April 2004
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Re: Help the NOOB :) with his AE112R
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Tue, 13 April 2004 23:34
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Cheers for that eddo... Out of interest, is the difference betwen SS and Mild Steel purely cosmetic and durability?
I was looking at making a cold air intake earlier, but because I have a pod filter, ill have to try and find a housing for the filter and then run 90mm pipe to the front of the car:)
Does anyone have any idea what an exhaust like this would cost?
I want as little noise as possible
All go and no show that the way I want it 
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Location:
Newcastle NSW
Registered:
June 2002
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Re: Help the NOOB :) with his AE112R
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Wed, 14 April 2004 02:44
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exhaust will set you back less than $300 but if you dont want noise you cant have power
basic rule NOISE=POWER there are always exeptions to the rule
difference between M/S and SS are mostly durability for your needs but SS is usually at least 1/3 more expensive
and are you sure your pod filter is helping power youd be surprised that many "stock" cars are slower with pod filters 
just some food for thought and yes get a cold air feed
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Location:
Perth
Registered:
September 2003
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Re: Help the NOOB :) with his AE112R
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Wed, 14 April 2004 02:53
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something like the 7AFE is actually quite a responsive engine to mods. but responsive means good as well as bad 
and a cat back exhaust isn't going to yeild you any serious kW, just a nicer note though.
if you're on a *tight* budget, then i would look to a full exhaust from the stock headers back. most of the restriction is before the catalytic convertor in modern systems, so a cat back exhaust is useless. the toyota headers actually flow pretty well. a nice 1 7/8in system, or even a 2in, would be a good start.
if you have some more money to play with, i would look at a cold air feed - a good one mind you, not just some piece of sh1t off the shelf. keep the airbox, don't go pod.
surprisingly, a good clutch in a FWD makes a hell of a difference, and while it's out a lightened flywheel would also be a good idea.
anything else and you're going to need either a chip or a whole computer change, to run the more aggressive cams i'm about to recommend (30/72 - 72/30) and individual throttles with inlet runners in the vicinity of 450mm long and 20mm Ø internally.
or for all this money, you could fit a small, low boost turbo system with a "computer fiddle" ("chip") with a better clutch and be done with it.
either way, it's something different and something different is good. kudos 
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Location:
Sydney, OZ
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: Help the NOOB :) with his AE112R
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Wed, 14 April 2004 04:02
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to run the more aggressive cams i'm about to recommend (30/72 - 72/30) and individual throttles with inlet runners in the vicinity of 450mm long and 20mm Ø internally.
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Have you tried to get cams for these engines? a) bloody expensive even for a re-grind and b) hardly anyone does them! Then there's getting them timing right, which again is an expensive excerise due to the sissor gears, shims? had to get these made too!!.. this all alone is going to set him back over $2000. A Conversion works out cheaper than changing cams, and we haven't even got to the throttle setup....
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And if any one has already done this to a AE112R contact me
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how about a couple of AE102's?? One streeter and one a Grp A rally vehicle, very much the same car.
We'll your not after a fire beathing bush basher AKA my GrpA, so forget the top part in regards to Cams etc. Best mod's for street on budget were as follows:
1. A/Filter ($100)
2. Extractors ($600)
These two alone allow the engine to breath and rev a bit freer.
3. Supension- I ran Koni reds ($600 for four) Lowered 2" strut brace (Springs- $500 brace-$150)
4. Wheels and tyres (I ran 16/205/45)
It was in this form I won the NSW S/Sprint series in '98 For class 2C with a daily driven AE102, though I must say handling not bucket loads of power... this all made it a 'fun car' to drive and had many funny disputes with stewards...
Then after this we looked at:
5. Replace the rest of the exhaust, Cats are quite good in flow respect, or replace it you 'feel like it, but they do produce SFA power different if you do change it or even gut it out.
6. headwork ($600-1000) depending on what you want.
7. Anything else you may think of... we went A/Market ECU,Kmac camber kits ($95 for two), I sold this car.
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Location:
Perth WA
Registered:
April 2004
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Re: Help the NOOB :) with his AE112R
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Wed, 14 April 2004 04:59
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Thanks for the info so far guys..
So it looks like the best value/performance option is going to be putting a panel filter back into the airbox, run a cold air intake (any ideas where I could get one or should I make one myself?)
Run a 2" system from the extractors ( I have heard many people say that the Stock Headers are quite good anyway.. just get them ground (fortunately I have a friend competent in such things!)
As to your comment Alainve, I know that power = noise, I used to drive an XR8. I (no offence any if this is you) just hate "fart cars" I healthy sound is great, I have no desire for resonators or extreme noise!
As far as engine swaps, they are out, to expensive, and this engine has only done 70K and I know it is good, I have been stung B4 with engine swaps
What about a new chip in it? does this make much of a difference?
And where can I get sway bars for these suckers!
Thanks for your help guys!
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Location:
Sydney
Registered:
November 2002
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Re: Help the NOOB :) with his AE112R
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Wed, 14 April 2004 14:38
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hi guys,
Johnny, the 7afe exhaust downpipe from exhaust manifold to the cat-converter has a huge dent in it (definitely not accidentally dented, as it's in a pic in the car manual). Any experience in any power gains from replacing it with something that doesn't have a fat 1/2" dent manufactured into it?
Suff, I'm not sure about the ae112, but in the ae102 if you remove all the stock intake piping from the bottom of the stock air box and follow it toward the front of the car, it runs into a hole above the wheel well. You should be able to make a cold air scoop from the wheel well up into the engine bay, then possibly use the stock piping to direct that air to your pod.
Cheers,
Paul
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Location:
Sydney, OZ
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: Help the NOOB :) with his AE112R
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Thu, 15 April 2004 05:14
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Johnny, the 7afe exhaust downpipe from exhaust manifold to the cat-converter has a huge dent in it (definitely not accidentally dented, as it's in a pic in the car manual). Any experience in any power gains from replacing it with something that doesn't have a fat 1/2" dent manufactured into it?
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Yeah, That why a ran extractors which dumped straight into a large flex pipe then the cat. On the rally car, cause we have to use a factory exhaust, We use a AE112 header which goes into two pipes which then goes into the same style dump just before the Cat... I know the one your talking about and I don't know why they did this...
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option is going to be putting a panel filter back into the airbox, run a cold air
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or just run a cold air duct up from the wheel arch to the pod.. or if you want to go a panel style, get a 20V one, bolts straight in and has a much larger outlet to the throttle, then run a C/A pipe to this.
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