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Location:
Rocklea qld
Registered:
February 2003
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engine rebuild questions and painting questions
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Mon, 31 May 2004 10:52
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1. im about to paint my car using acrylic paint and have had a few misleading stories. Do i need clear with acrylic??? Do i need hardener with acrylic. Its gonna be a metalic colour.
2. Im about to recieve some money to start with the build of my engine after finding a few prices. Its gonna be a turboed 18rgeu and my questions are should i get a better oil pump that pumpsd harder? Should i get any cam work or bigger valves as phil is with his car? will a standard vl fuel pump supply enough fuel for around 15-18psi of boost? Whats the best clutch to buy to handle around 300+rwhp. More questions to come once these are answered or if anyone has any comments about building the engine and what work i should do please let me know. Im hoping to build one capable or 375rwhp as ra_28 has OR MAYBE EVEN MORE 
Thanks in advance
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Registered:
May 2004
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Re: engine rebuild questions and painting questions
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Mon, 31 May 2004 12:01
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Not sure on the engine, but for the paint, yes you will want a clear coat over a metallic acrylic. (Not needed if you didnt have metallic) I love acryllic as a paint to apply, definately easier for a newbie. (If you stuff up you can wait an hour, rub it back and fix it!!) Shouldnt need hardener , I cant imagine rocklea having a cold day. Make sure you use decent quality thinners (Not super cheap crap..their thinners is only good for cleaning guns) A cheap thinner will not let you get a decent gloss.
If you go to a paint shop , ask them what pressures to spray at, estimated drying times dependant on temperature, reccommended coats (how many undercoat, how many top, how many clear) and buy decent paint! If you buy cheapo paint..you get a cheapo job. Go at least mid range in quality.
Cheers
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I supported Toymods
Location:
melbourne.victoria.austra...
Registered:
June 2002
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Re: engine rebuild questions and painting questions
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Mon, 31 May 2004 19:33
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speak to your engine builder about what cams ect to use...
re: painting, if you're using acrylic, then you don't need hardener - thats only for 2 pack paint. yes you need a clear over a metallic as it REALLY brings up the gloss (mine is shiny as and i haven't compounded it yet)
if you paint a dark(ish) color then consider a base coat first - eg: i did a dark blue and used heaps of the paint i'd bought to get the color right - what i should have done was use a dark blue/black basecolor (flat no metallic) then applied my metallic.
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Location:
Rocklea qld
Registered:
February 2003
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Re: engine rebuild questions and painting questions
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Tue, 01 June 2004 09:44
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What do u mean base coat. Cant i just paint it over the primer. Im not going for to good of a finish as the body is still a little rough and i want GO before Show. As for the price to get a metalic paint is acrylic is only costing ne $106 so its not that much money to be spending on it.
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Registered:
May 2004
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Re: engine rebuild questions and painting questions
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Tue, 01 June 2004 09:53
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A base coat is basically a top coat, applied after your undercoat, prior to your finishing coats.
It is used so you don't get a patchy result, and you get a nice contrast / depth to your paint.
If your after a cheapo job, just use a nice DARK grey undercoat, and make sure it is even in colour BEFORE applying the top coat. (That is, if you rub back any imperfections in the undercoat, and can see a different colour showing through, give it another coat of undercoat!)
The metal acylics especially in the cheaper varieties also can let oxygen through to the layers underneath, which can lead to rust. (I had the unfortunate experience of painting an F100 truck for a friend, in light blue metallic acrylic. It looked great off the gun!, 2 months later the thing looked like a rusted out datto!, thankfully for my mate, he had sold it prior to that)
Make sure you have a shiny, surface before putting clear on however.
Another tip might be to use high filler primer. It helps cover up indiscretions in your body work. Just be sure to give it a few days to "cure" in the sun, prior to putting top coats on, as it can sink back, exposing sanding marks if it doesnt dry fully first.
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Location:
Rocklea qld
Registered:
February 2003
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Re: engine rebuild questions and painting questions
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Tue, 01 June 2004 10:00
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High fill is just primmer with less thinners isnt it? If so then ive already done that stage. Im basically getting ready to paint. Just have to wet and dry the car and finishone more corner and its ready. Ill try to take some pics when im doing it.
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Registered:
May 2004
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Re: engine rebuild questions and painting questions
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Tue, 01 June 2004 11:54
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High fill is a thicker style primer. I am guessing when you put on the primer with less thinners it went on awfully dry?? (Feel like sand paper when you rub you hand over it?)
Make sure your final coat of undercoat or primer, is one solid colour. That is if you rub back that corner, and have 2 different colours, I would give another total coat of primer! This will save you having to put 4-5 top coats on to cover the different shades. (2-3 should be more than enough!)
Remember to keep a wet edge flowing when you do the roof, and DONT put the top coats on too thick. Better to be able to almost see through the coats and do another coat, then to have the paint sag and run 10 mins after you hang the gun up! (Like I have done on multiple occasions myself!)
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I supported Toymods
Location:
melbourne.victoria.austra...
Registered:
June 2002
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Re: engine rebuild questions and painting questions
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Tue, 01 June 2004 20:03
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sandman sounds like you're talking from experience... 
hi fill is typically yeah a thicker primer. i found that using a 2.4mm nozzle on my gun it wouldn't apply really well so i thinned it out - my gun pot holds 600ml of paint, so, typically i'd put 400ml of hi fill and 100ml of thinner just to help it move (thats 500ml in total i know) - leaving room for breathing
FWIW paint i typically mixed with 200ml paint to 300ml thinner
(1 - 1.5)
primer was 1:1 (250ml primer, 250ml thinner)
and clear was 200ml clear 400ml thinner - got awesome gloss this way - any thicker and the clear would end up furry FWIW.
so far my finish has been extremely shiny off the gun and 100% moreso after the clear. its a hard job but very much well worth it. and don't rush your prep work (believe me i've screwed some of mine up in areas)
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Location:
Adelaide
Registered:
June 2003
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Re: engine rebuild questions and painting questions
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Wed, 02 June 2004 01:00
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Those ratios sound pretty good.
I used 1 part paint : 1.5 parts thinner for my metallic coats, any less (ie 1:1) and I ended up with zebra stripes. These really pissed me off.
I used 1:1.5 for clear, and frm the finish I have, I should have done a thinner mixture, maybe 1:2.
For the final coats of metallic I would go maybe a little thinner than 1:1.5 just for a smooth finish before clear.
Make sure you leave plenty of time for filler coats to dry,yes, they shrink a lot.
I you have imperfections (ie. insects or formerly airborne particles) in the metallic coats, let it dry before you do anyhing about it, it is tempting to pick it out before it dries, but trust me, it sooo isn't worth it.
I realise you probably know this but just incase I thought I would put this in.
Don't rub down the final metallic coat before clear. The final coat must remain as it came from the gun.
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