Author | Topic |
Location: Sydney/Wollongong
Registered: October 2004
|
|
|
![](images/custom_avatars/1110)
Location: Madrid - Spain
Registered: August 2002
|
Re: Impossible?
|
Wed, 24 November 2004 23:17
![Go to previous message Go to previous message](http://forums.toymods.org.au/theme/default/images/up.gif)
|
![](blank.gif) |
As long as you don't mind driving around in an illegal car with invalid insurance go for it. Although I would do brakes first.
|
|
|
Location: Sydney/Wollongong
Registered: October 2004
|
Re: Impossible?
|
Thu, 25 November 2004 00:25
![Go to previous message Go to previous message](http://forums.toymods.org.au/theme/default/images/up.gif)
|
![](blank.gif) |
no, i do not plan to drive around an illegal car. i will be preparing the car such that it will pass (and exceed) the requirements of an engineers cert.
i was just having doubts on whether i should be arsed to get it regoed and then pulling it straight off the road.
the thing is, even if engineered, they will scrutineer the car 100% more when doing a blue slip prior to rego if the conversion is already done.
i'm taking it for a blueslip on the 7th then rego soon after. i will then start the conversion as soon as possible, get it engineered and then start driving
Looking at it now, i figure it was pretty stupid even asking but my reasoning was that it WILL be engineered no matter what. An engineers certificate passes the car and says that it has been scrutinised, tested and is roadworthy. this is in effect a blueslip for an already registered car that has been modified.
its just the order in which i would have done this which was in question.
EDIT: inspected the loom today and realised it is in effect...... fucked
anybody looking to get rid of a complete (cut or uncut but must be complete) AE101 levin 20V loom with all engine diagnostic, injector, water/coolant control and computer plugs with or without computer?
Also had a good idea on modifying the water outlets. the thermostat (and heater hose) housing hanging off the back of the block has to go so i think i will fabricate just a flat plate with 90 degree bends to replace it (and slim it down to clear the firewall) then a section of hose running round the side of the block to a section of copper (or similar) pipe which leads to where i will remote mount the thermostat housing on an ally plate bolted to the cross member or something then to the radiator. it'll be good.... i hope
|
|
|
![](images/custom_avatars/4164)
I supported Toymods
Location: Australia
Registered: November 2003
|
Re: Impossible?
|
Thu, 25 November 2004 00:38
![Go to previous message Go to previous message](http://forums.toymods.org.au/theme/default/images/up.gif)
|
![](blank.gif) |
Get the car to be how you want it, and then get it engineered.
ie, Wait till everything is done.
|
|
|
Location: up yours!
Registered: May 2002
|
Re: Impossible?
|
Thu, 25 November 2004 00:56
![Go to previous message Go to previous message](http://forums.toymods.org.au/theme/default/images/up.gif)
|
![](blank.gif) |
why do you want to rego it before doing a conversion?? its only wasted money sitting in the garage..
Best thing to do is get it all done at once, works out heaps cheaper in the long run,
with the engineers report they only cover what your done, not what you are going to do..
so to keep it legal and above board you would have to get a revised engineers report and blue slip for each step of your modification...
As for your RWD 20v, the idea with the plate and pipes is basally what i did, if you ever want to have a look your more then free.
Also i would surgest you fit a air bleed to the top outlet of the radiator pipe, air always builds up around here.
yogi
|
|
|
Registered: November 2003
|
Re: Impossible?
|
Thu, 25 November 2004 00:57
![Go to previous message Go to previous message](http://forums.toymods.org.au/theme/default/images/up.gif)
|
![](blank.gif) |
I would recommend buying a piece o crap for transport and take your time to do everything right.
Anyway, insurance companies will always take the easiest option to get out of anything, if you did have a smash, regardless of who's fault it is you who will probably get nailed. Especially if you don't have adequate brakes, and no engineer certificate.
|
|
|
![](images/custom_avatars/1976)
Location: Kita-Ku, Sapporo, Japan
Registered: January 2003
|
Re: Impossible?
|
Thu, 25 November 2004 00:58
![Go to previous message Go to previous message](http://forums.toymods.org.au/theme/default/images/up.gif)
|
![](blank.gif) |
heh heh..
Insurance company points to 20V and
|
|
|
![](images/custom_avatars/5429)
Location: Baulko Hillo
Registered: April 2004
|
Re: Impossible?
|
Thu, 25 November 2004 02:02
|
![](blank.gif) |
nudes wrote on Thu, 25 November 2004 11:25 | Also had a good idea on modifying the water outlets. the thermostat (and heater hose) housing hanging off the back of the block has to go so i think i will fabricate just a flat plate with 90 degree bends to replace it (and slim it down to clear the firewall) then a section of hose running round the side of the block to a section of copper (or similar) pipe which leads to where i will remote mount the thermostat housing on an ally plate bolted to the cross member or something then to the radiator. it'll be good.... i hope
|
I have plates/outlets to suit the 20V RWD conversion - $150. Includes a rear plate that is machined so water can flow from one side of the head to the other and is also tapped for the sensors, a plate to block the rear exh. side outlet, an outlet for your top rad hose and a T-piece for either heater hose or thermostat bypass. If you use a 4AC pump and thermostat housing (bolts straight on) you don't need to run a remote t'stat.
You do realise that the distributor is still going to be protruding right? Unless you are planning to go aftermarket ECU with coil-packs or a DLI kit.
|
|
|