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draven
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stupid question no1 for the night regarding battery relocation Sat, 15 January 2005 09:57 Go to next message
ok, in the middle of doing my battery relocation, so expect many silly questions tonight.

first up - in nsw, is it necessary to have your wires encased in split-tube plastic shielding? (I'd like to know this *before* I thread the bloody thing through)

second... apart from doing interesting things to magnetic fields, is there any problem with running my earth cable right next to the power cable for a metre or so? the earth cable was designed for an in-car amp, so it's super shielded (and uber-riced - neon blue!), and the power cable is just standard 0 guage... shielded of course, as it's designed for use in boats/caravans.

ps - I never want to take apart the interior of my supra again.
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draven
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Re: stupid question no1 for the night regarding battery relocation Sat, 15 January 2005 10:36 Go to previous messageGo to next message
you all suck
help me! Razz

ps - is it dodgy to secure an earth strap with a self tapping screw?
Iknow you're supposed to use a bolt, but it's *really* difficult to get a bolt * nut affixed to a chassis rail.
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Purple_Beasty
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Re: stupid question no1 for the night regarding battery relocation Sat, 15 January 2005 10:47 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Why would you need a earth cable that long anyway? Should be as short as possible. Other than that I see no problem as your whole car acts as the earth strap anyway.

Callum
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draven
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Re: stupid question no1 for the night regarding battery relocation Sat, 15 January 2005 10:49 Go to previous messageGo to next message
because, after consulting experts on this, the extra length to the chassis rail is more than worth it, as the chassis rail will provide a *much* better grounding to the engine bay than just bolting it to the boot pan... plus the losses through this fat arse cable will be minimal.
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thechuckster
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Re: stupid question no1 for the night regarding battery relocation Sat, 15 January 2005 11:29 Go to previous messageGo to next message
draven wrote on Sat, 15 January 2005 20:36

ps - is it dodgy to secure an earth strap with a self tapping screw?
Iknow you're supposed to use a bolt, but it's *really* difficult to get a bolt * nut affixed to a chassis rail.

i'd advise against this - at some inopportune moment the screw will come loose and you'll suffer the common 'crap earth' problem - this may happen:
-with a large audeince
-while doing something that needs a lot of electrical power
-a long way from all your tools
-while in the middle of a heavy downpour at nitetime

find any nearby bolt holding something down, remove all paint and non-conductive shit, re-attach with earth strap.

[Updated on: Sat, 15 January 2005 11:30]

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draven
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Re: stupid question no1 for the night regarding battery relocation Sat, 15 January 2005 11:33 Go to previous messageGo to next message
my chassis rail has no useful bolts in the immediate vicinity - the only way I see this happening is if I drill a 9mm hole nead one of the large holes in the chassis rail, and squeeze a finger through to hold the nut in place.
why are these things never easy? Smile

ps - I still need an electronics whizz to tell me if +ve can run next to -ve with no ill effects - I learnt this in year 12 physics.. but, well, it was year 12 Smile
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Cool1
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Re: stupid question no1 for the night regarding battery relocation Sat, 15 January 2005 11:48 Go to previous messageGo to next message
ADR's don't require the cable to be encased although I recommend it.
You wont have any problem at all running the negative and positive cables together.
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thechuckster
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Re: stupid question no1 for the night regarding battery relocation Sat, 15 January 2005 11:56 Go to previous messageGo to next message
how about: drill hole in floor, line hole with grommet, push earth cable thru and attach to nearest bolt under car, protect any under-body cable from damage or catching on passing debris?

as for the cables - should be no effect at all - is not like they're carrying high current AC voltages?
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draven
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Re: stupid question no1 for the night regarding battery relocation Sat, 15 January 2005 11:56 Go to previous messageGo to next message
just the person I was looking for a response from.

do the ADRs (if you know) require the battery to be on a metal tray? I've got a battery box, with acid-resistant platic, and logic states that a metal tray underneath would not help a great deal (since metal reacts with acid), but ed mentioned something about them...
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draven
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Re: stupid question no1 for the night regarding battery relocation Sat, 15 January 2005 11:58 Go to previous messageGo to next message
I'm trying to keep drilling to an absolute minimum, and I'm on time constraints... car is booked in for monday, and me being me has left the work to the last minute, on a weekend when I'm working both days. compared to the pissy 10 guage standard earth, this 0 guage, even though longer, should be more than adequate. If I have earthing problems, I can always shorten it and go a-drilling.
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ae86drift
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Re: stupid question no1 for the night regarding battery relocation Sat, 15 January 2005 12:02 Go to previous messageGo to next message
shane should have his own forum
Very Happy
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Cool1
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Re: stupid question no1 for the night regarding battery relocation Sat, 15 January 2005 12:02 Go to previous messageGo to next message
When we fit batteries in cabin we use angle steel that is cut and welded to make a brace that fits around the bottom of the battery box.
The braces have 4 tabs welded on that allows us to bolt it to the floor.
The battery box straps are also screwed to the floor and the box can be fitted.
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draven
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Re: stupid question no1 for the night regarding battery relocation Sat, 15 January 2005 12:09 Go to previous messageGo to next message
aahh
I have a battery box strap with screw-mountings on the ends for just this purpose, but the battery box itself is just plastic. my plan was to screw this to the floor with wide-head self-tapping screws... 4 screws in the base of the battery box + 4 screws on the battery strap should be sufficient strength.... but I might put the metal tray in as well, so in the event of an accident the screws dont just rip through the plastic (although fortunately the battery is mounted directly behind the back seats, so it wont go decapitating anyone)
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fade-e
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Re: stupid question no1 for the night regarding battery relocation Sat, 15 January 2005 12:19 Go to previous messageGo to next message
im gonna do the same and am going to do what Shane just said... also i am going to have a metal plate in the battery box to bolt the battery box down and to ensure that with any sideways the battery box will not break and come off... does that make sense?

with my negative im gonna be double safe and have one cable going to the boot hinge and another to the chassis rail... i know it may be over kill but they are only gonna be bout 30cm each in length...

with the positive im want to try and have it run THROUGH the chassis rail from the boot and then back out in the engine bay... this will more than definately be a CUNT to accomplish but i am a bit fussy at times Very Happy
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draven
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Re: stupid question no1 for the night regarding battery relocation Sat, 15 January 2005 12:25 Go to previous messageGo to next message
in the corner of the carpet was my choice... simply because the rest of my car is put together, and there are certain pieces I am not willing to remove again (because they were a CUNT to get in), plus I had it cut to length, so I wont have enough to change my plans now and run it through the chassis rail Razz

and shane - 250amp long burn fuse... will this be enough to cope with cranking the engine over? they were out of the 300A fuses, but this one can take 500amps for 3 secs, so I figure that's plenty?

[Updated on: Sat, 15 January 2005 12:26]

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Cool1
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Re: stupid question no1 for the night regarding battery relocation Sat, 15 January 2005 12:27 Go to previous messageGo to next message
You should be right with the 250amp fuse. Starter motors can initially draw a lot more than this but you should be right.
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ed_ma61
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Re: stupid question no1 for the night regarding battery relocation Sat, 15 January 2005 15:02 Go to previous messageGo to next message
metal tray is simply to hold he battery to the floor greg Nod

battery to tray, tray through box to (& through) the floor...

batteries tend to be heavy, acid filled anvils in the midst of a decent accident. the trays im getting made are a heavy gauge gal steel, should hug the batteries nicely and hold them very still
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draven
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Re: stupid question no1 for the night regarding battery relocation Sat, 15 January 2005 20:26 Go to previous messageGo to next message
all is made clear in the light of morning Smile

where do you plan to thread it thru the firewall ed? my firewall is getting a bit jammed with wires and assorted crap... the air-con is looking like a good spot?
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draven
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Re: stupid question no1 for the night regarding battery relocation Sun, 16 January 2005 08:56 Go to previous message
I would like to take this opportunity to swear loudy.

FUCK

I knew I'd left the split tube at the battery place - no biggie, I can do without that.

Now I find I also bloody well left the wire that goes from battery to fuse there.
With my car due in tomorrow!
The mechanic's gonna think really highly of me "yeah, here's my car in pieces - i dont have the parts needed to fix it. have fun!"
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