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Location:
sunny coast, qld
Registered:
October 2002
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1jz/2jz ignition systems
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Fri, 04 February 2005 02:49
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Does anyone know how similar the 1jz ignition is to the 2jz ignition? The reason I ask is that I have been told by one person that the stock 1jz ignition system is not up to the task with a single turbo setup.
I seem to recall a lot of 2jz single turbo supras running with what looked like stock ignition setups. So if the 2jz and 1jz systems are similar and the 2jz can do it, then I don't see why a 1jz couldn't.
I do plan on upgrading the ignition system in the future but at the moment the budget doesn't stretch that far.
thanks in advance
Chris
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Location:
Adelaide
Registered:
June 2002
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Re: 1jz/2jz ignition systems
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Fri, 04 February 2005 19:54
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Chris, I would tend to think your stock ignition should be okay for a fair few ponies over stock. (how many though I dunno-a 1J expert will certainly know.)
Make sure you close your plug gaps right up (0.7-0.8mm has always been a good compromise I've found) and it should be able to cope with a fair bit of boost. Certainly, if you find the spark starts to get blown out even with the closed up gaps, go for a better spark setup. Given the (relatively) huge cost of ignition upgrades, they aren't generally a very good kW for $$ spent item. To really get the value out of them, you need to be able to wind the boost right up past where the stock system was wussing out.
Another way to go about it is to instead invest in some racing fuel (LMS, C16 etc) for the dyno and strip. Although it's expensive, you'll be able to leave the boost alone and crank up the timing instead. You won't need a bigger spark as the boost won't change, but the timing can be worth 15-30%+ more power and the cost for a tank of jungle juice (50:50 PULP/C16 or LMS) is a whole lot less than for new coils............
What about the Jacar Capacitive Discharge ignition kits? I've got a Crane Hi-6 CD system and PS-92 coil on the crown and it is capable of jumping over 60mm. Once I had it set up wrong, and when I bent down into the engine bay near the high tension lead it DISCHARGED INTO MY TOP LIP!!!!!!OOOOWWWWWWCCCHHHHH.
Something you may also be interested in is the research I've done lately into plugs. Currently I have some Champion Racing plugs with clipped electrodes and a recessed tips. They hide the spark just inside the end of the plug and also keep the plug a lot cooler so as to surpress detonation and allow you a bit more ignition advance over stock plugs. ($85 or so from Repco and they come in a type suitable for late model Toyota engines) I certainly found them to work well, with the only downside being a bit of fouling after extended idle-but you check them after every run at the strip anyway........
How is the project progressing? What sort of rear end does it have? Solid axle I guess, but does it have 3 or 4 control arms(in addition to the panhard rod)? My crown had 2 lower arms and a single, offset from centre, upper arm. I found that the offset single upper link tended to cause tramping with worn bushes, but that once I put an extra upper link in there that the problem was solved.
What diff are you planning to run?
Sean
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Location:
sunny coast, qld
Registered:
October 2002
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Re: 1jz/2jz ignition systems
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Sat, 05 February 2005 02:22
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| MS-75 wrote on Sat, 05 February 2005 06:54 |
Chris, I would tend to think your stock ignition should be okay for a fair few ponies over stock. (how many though I dunno-a 1J expert will certainly know.)
Make sure you close your plug gaps right up (0.7-0.8mm has always been a good compromise I've found) and it should be able to cope with a fair bit of boost. Certainly, if you find the spark starts to get blown out even with the closed up gaps, go for a better spark setup.
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I have the NGK BKR6ES's is there at the moment that are gapped to .7mm.
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Another way to go about it is to instead invest in some racing fuel (LMS, C16 etc) for the dyno and strip. Although it's expensive, you'll be able to leave the boost alone and crank up the timing instead. You won't need a bigger spark as the boost won't change, but the timing can be worth 15-30%+ more power and the cost for a tank of jungle juice (50:50 PULP/C16 or LMS) is a whole lot less than for new coils............
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This sounds like a good idea and I have read a few articles on running c16. Do you do this at the moment or still on pump fuel? The only downside is that everyone whinges if you use anything other than pump fuel 
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What about the Jacar Capacitive Discharge ignition kits? I've got a Crane Hi-6 CD system and PS-92 coil on the crown and it is capable of jumping over 60mm. Once I had it set up wrong, and when I bent down into the engine bay near the high tension lead it DISCHARGED INTO MY TOP LIP!!!!!!OOOOWWWWWWCCCHHHHH.
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Sounds painful! I haven't heard about these before so I will have a look at the Jaycar site and check them out. Is your setup multicoil or dizzy type?
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Something you may also be interested in is the research I've done lately into plugs. Currently I have some Champion Racing plugs with clipped electrodes and a recessed tips. They hide the spark just inside the end of the plug and also keep the plug a lot cooler so as to surpress detonation and allow you a bit more ignition advance over stock plugs. ($85 or so from Repco and they come in a type suitable for late model Toyota engines) I certainly found them to work well, with the only downside being a bit of fouling after extended idle-but you check them after every run at the strip anyway........
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Hmm, sounds interesting. I think I may look into using these plugs if the spark is being blown out. Next question is, how the hell do I tell if that is happening? 
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How is the project progressing? What sort of rear end does it have? Solid axle I guess, but does it have 3 or 4 control arms(in addition to the panhard rod)? My crown had 2 lower arms and a single, offset from centre, upper arm. I found that the offset single upper link tended to cause tramping with worn bushes, but that once I put an extra upper link in there that the problem was solved.
What diff are you planning to run?
Sean
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Project is nearly on the road again. I am booked in to the mechanics to get my new dump pipe connected to my existing exhaust and my wolf 3d installed and tuned.
Yes it is a solid axle rear end from a Pajero. It uses a Pajero LSD.
I have a 4 link rear end except only the lower control arms seem to be connected. I can't see if there is another upper mounting point on the chassis as the car isn't jacked up at the moment. I think I will see how it goes like this first and then see if there is room for improvement.
Thanks
Chris
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