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Registered:
February 2005
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turbo 18rc
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Sun, 06 February 2005 01:58
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hi all ,
Just wondering if there is any bad complications with hooking a turbo up to a stock 18rc engine ? , i know this will not last long but only doin it for something fun . we have a turbo off a gtr skyline and planning on getting another 18rc exhaust manifold to cut up and adapt . we arew thinking of just using the standard carby as a blow threw system will i have to do anything to the carby ? or will it be ok on low boost ? .
thanx , classicjap .
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Location:
Perth
Registered:
May 2004
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Re: turbo 18rc
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Sun, 06 February 2005 02:57
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Ask yourself this question...
"Have I really thought this through?...."
I would say that the only complication you would come across would be just about everything, but apart from that you should be sweet. 
Is it really worth it? The 18R-C is what? 90Hp Stock? It doesn't need a turbo for more power, its needs to be replaced.
Would be better to buy an 18RGUE (EFI) and turbo that, people have done it on here with some very impressive results.
I know you are just doing it for fun, but putting a real motor in there for fun would last a lot longer and please you more.
Cheers
Adam
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Location:
Brisbane
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: turbo 18rc
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Sun, 06 February 2005 03:00
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Well put.
I'm sure thechuckster will have a few things to say about turbo 18R's, especially those that glow in the dark. 
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Location:
Brisbane
Registered:
February 2003
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Location:
townsville NQLD
Registered:
February 2004
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Re: turbo 18rc
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Sun, 06 February 2005 03:08
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alot of fukin round for just fun  .
it has been done, but why bother??
search the old topics and u will find lots of info on this
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Location:
Melbourne
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: turbo 18rc
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Sun, 06 February 2005 03:24
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bigest problems there are firstly 18R-C and then suck thru setup, SU carbs and turbo location
any engine that basicly has an impossable to tune setup will die in ass and melt shit!
YES turboing an 18R-C is insane but if you had the bits laying around, set it up blow thru LPG or EFI and a J pipe to locate the turbo on the other side of the engine (alows use of stock manifolds) i think the result maybe a bit more positive
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Location:
Brisbane
Registered:
February 2003
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Location:
Melbourne
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: turbo 18rc
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Sun, 06 February 2005 03:44
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| thechuckster wrote on Sun, 06 February 2005 14:37 |
there was no EFI from factory that you can utilise.
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Wrong! there was an 18R-E! i have not personaly seen it but i know someone that had it! (Richard do you have pics??)
I think it could be done with EFI without tooooo much issue use the stock intake manifold fitted with injector bosses or mount a eb falcon CFI throttle body and then direct fire ignition so the dizzy can be blanked off this would give ample room for a turbo on the drivers side of the engine bay....
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Location:
Brisbane
Registered:
February 2003
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Re: turbo 18rc
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Sun, 06 February 2005 03:59
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minor update - my new EFI intake manifold no longer has the weird protusion at the back.
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Location:
Melbourne
Registered:
October 2003
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Re: turbo 18rc
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Sun, 06 February 2005 04:26
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how much can you do yourself?
I don't know how much you know etc, but i'll just write up a 'how to' on a budget.
Oil line setups
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Use a marker to mark a hole on the sump around the size of the I.D of a length of a piece of heater hose near the top of the sump. Drill it out, don't worry about the metal filings, just drain the oil. Any remaining pieces should be caught by the filter anyway. The heater hose should slide in with a nice tight fit and wont leak. Run this to the oil drain of the turbo.
Remove your oil sender switch from the block and goto Enzed or Purtek and get a barb fitting of the same thread type to suit, If you like get a T piece so you can still run the original oil pressure switch, but not a necessity. (these fitting can sometimes be expensive)
Also from purtek, but maybe from repco/bursons get a length of transmission cooler line to suit the barb fitting and hose clamps. If the turbo still has the original oil lines connected, chop off all but the 3" or so, and simply slide the oil line over and clamp up.
Also if the turbo is water cooled grab a 2 T pieces and some heater line while your at it. Don't forget hose clamps!
This will pretty much sort out all your turbo's cooling/oiling requirements and should be able to be done in about half a day.
Next up is mounting the turbo/flanges etc.
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You can either buy some steel plate, an angle grinder and
some good drill bits and a dremel, or for around the same cost have it made up by a eng shop
Make templates of the turbo inlet flange, and dump pipe flange.
Drop them off the an engineering shop. Specify if you need studs as well, if you can get rear and front access such that you can use a normal bolt/nut combo do that as it will be cheaper. Also take off the carby and pull it all apart such that all you have is the base plate. Give this to the machine shop as well and tell them to create a flange from 1/2" steel plate as well.. (oviously to cut costs you can do a lot of this yourself, but it's a bit of a ballbreaker grinidng 1/2" plate)
At this stage you should have a turbo inlet flange, and exhaust flange, and a flange that replicates the base plate of your carby.
Instead of cutting/welding to cast iron, although it's possible, it would better suit turbo location etc if my memory serves me right on the 18rc engine to just use something like a J pipe. If you go that way, at this stage pretty much all your fabrication is complete. (unless your an exhaust shop)
Tow the car down to an exhaust shop. Find a shop that has an interest in what your are doing, and will listen to you. this is actually pretty important. Some shops just want to do exhausts all day everyday and anything that deviates from what they know will scare them. There are plenty of shops that should help you out but from my exp the local independant guy is usually better than big chain shops.
Keep the original engine pipe flange, and simply get the ex shop to add a J pipe off the back to the turbo inlet flange. (find somewhere in the bay where the turbo will sit nicely, oil lines vertical etc). Now (if there a good shop and you want to save some cash, tell them to give to 30 mins to bolt up the J pipe and turbo to the flange. Then get them to connect the original exhuast to your turbo exhaust outlet flange -- or get a new exhaust made up ( ... Finally get some pipes bent up to take the compressor outlet into your carby inlet plate. You'll need a piece of silicone hose and some clamps to make the final join from comp outlet to intake pipes. Press bent mild steel is fine for all this.
So at this stage you should have oil water lines connected, your whole compressor side sorted out, with only the carby to take care of now. (note: do the oil lines after the turbo is mounted! -- i just typed it first for some reason)
Carby choice is up to you, but choose something that will support around about the horsepower you can except. Say 90hp stock, you might get it upto 150hp or more?? i've got no idea.
Webbers are a good option and there exist quite a lot of adaptors to 'convert' them into a single pipe suitable to enter the turbo compressor and a lot of people seem to use them?
I will be a bit vague on this, due to not really knowing which way you will go, but just be careful with tuning. I find retarding the dist by about 4-5 degrees works well, but will sacrifice some off boost response. The only real way around that one is to run a boost retard canister on the dizzy, but i'm not shure where you could get one?.
As for how much boost? no idea, but you should be able to get 8psi into it which will def make a difference! 
Hope this helps, it's pretty much what I did for my setup less the intake piping as mine is PVC (blow thru).... Also you could go completly the other way and go blow thru, and there is a fair bit of literature out there about how to set them up, and when done properly work extremly well.
Good luck!
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Registered:
February 2005
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Re: turbo 18rc
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Sun, 06 February 2005 10:52
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yeah this is my first a first attempt for a turbo mod , just wondering where will i take water from to cool the turbo , i seen someone had tapped into the thermostat housing for there water line , is that a way to go ?
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Location:
Brisbane
Registered:
February 2003
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Re: turbo 18rc
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Sun, 06 February 2005 11:38
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my water lines were plumbed in as:
cool water supply - tee'd off at drain hole on pass/side of block
warm water return - plug into thermostat housing above the thermostat
the end result is constant flow of water regardless of thermostat state.
another option is taking the cool water supply from the back of the water pump
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Location:
Melbourne
Registered:
October 2003
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Re: turbo 18rc
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Sun, 06 February 2005 13:15
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sorry chuckster missed your post the first time i read this topic due to slow connection/pics, I guess you got it all covered How does it go?!
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Location:
Melbourne
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: turbo 18rc
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Sun, 06 February 2005 13:30
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| thechuckster wrote on Sun, 06 February 2005 14:37 |
Allan - there's no room to run the exhaust around the back of the engine to the driver's side - but i'd love to see a pic of an 18RE engine just to see how they did it.
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Run it under the engine!.... cant find any pics of 18R-E was fitted to JDM RA21 and T-18 apparently!
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Location:
Melbourne
Registered:
February 2003
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Re: turbo 18rc
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Sun, 06 February 2005 21:08
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As Allan said, I had an 18R-E. It was many moons ago and the pics I had were on a 5.25 inch floppy disc which could be anywhere by now.
The 18R-E inlet manifold looked just like a 3T-E manifold with those beautiful chrome runners. The runners curved over to the top of the cam cover where the plenum was bolted to.
Richard
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Location:
Brisbane
Registered:
February 2003
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Re: turbo 18rc
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Mon, 07 February 2005 14:52
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| hemi twofifteen turbo wrote on Sun, 06 February 2005 23:15 |
sorry chuckster missed your post the first time i read this topic due to slow connection/pics, I guess you got it all covered How does it go?!
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like most thing i touch - slowly... the car has been out in the weather these last 6 months while house underwent renovations ... just before newyear i had intended to drag it around to the garage to restart work when my supr did the BHG ... anyway, EFI gear mostly ready, ignition still to be sorted out, still needs plumbing for a FMIC
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