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Location: FL, USA
Registered: June 2005
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1G-GTE in USDM MA70: Bad AFM?
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Tue, 19 July 2005 16:08
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I start the car, revs goto 2k, and then it stalls..For it to stay running, the flapper door in the AFM has to be held open..Would this be the AFM? Thanks
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Location: Newcastle, Australia
Registered: August 2005
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Re: 1G-GTE in USDM MA70: Bad AFM?
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Tue, 23 August 2005 06:42
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Sorry for the late response.
Crack the lid off the top of the AFM. Inside is a small switch that opens when the AFM flap is fully closed. This cuts the power to the fuel pump relay. Give these contacts a clean with some electrical contact cleaner and a light brush and it should be fine.
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Location: WA
Registered: May 2005
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Re: 1G-GTE in USDM MA70: Bad AFM?
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Tue, 23 August 2005 16:54
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GTtwin, could you please tell us whether resetting the ECU and cleaing up your AFM fixes the problem?
Also, have you modified ur exhaust/intake. When did ur prob start happening?
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I supported Toymods
Location: Australia
Registered: November 2003
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Re: 1G-GTE in USDM MA70: Bad AFM?
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Wed, 24 August 2005 00:36
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VeeP wrote on Wed, 24 August 2005 00:54 |
GTtwin, could you please tell us whether resetting the ECU and cleaing up your AFM fixes the problem?
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Eh? Wha? Huh?
You're making no sense son...
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Location: Newcastle, Australia
Registered: August 2005
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Re: 1G-GTE in USDM MA70: Bad AFM?
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Wed, 24 August 2005 02:49
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Nothing major done to mine.
3" Cat back, 300x760 Bar and plate front mount cooler, Pod filter, match ported throttle body and standard intake pipes.
I pulled all the wiring loom out and cleaned it due to a power steering leak that covered everything in ATF. Real Messy!
With the AFM, I removed all the pins from the plug and soldered them due to my concerns that fluid had got between the wire and the pins in the plug.
I did reset the ECU diagnostics because when I pulled the loom out the water temp sensor fell apart without me knowing, so I was getting a temp fault code.
This particular problem with the AFM won't show up on the ECU diagnostics because the faulty contact is the trigger to the "circuit opening relay" which supplies power to the "fuel pump relay". The engine dying is actually the result of loosing fuel pressure, not the ECU shutting down.
The reason this switch exists is so the fuel pump will only operate when air is being drawn through the AFM. If you crack the top off the AFM, turn the ignition on without the engine running, and then physically push this contact you will here the fuel running through the injector rail. If it doesn't, or you have to fiddle the contact to make it do so, then thats the problem.
None of these mods has affected idle or anything, I even fitted a show off valve last night and that hasn't bothered it one bit.
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