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michaelhaynes110
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Location:
Townsville, QLD, Australia
Registered:
June 2005
DIY Port and Polish Mon, 25 July 2005 13:31 Go to next message
Just read through this http://www.sa-motorsports.com/diyport.shtm

I have a dremel and can use it alright. I am just wondering how hard it is doing the poritng yourself and how much time are you looking at? Anyone had a crack at it and want to share experiences?
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oldcorollas
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Location:
Kita-Ku, Sapporo, Japan
Registered:
January 2003
 
Re: DIY Port and Polish Mon, 25 July 2005 19:27 Go to previous messageGo to next message
if you just want to clean it up, maybe dremel will be ok, but very slow.. if the head is alloy it will also clog any abrasive bit you use.
if you want to take off more material, use a drill or preferably a die grinder with a proper alloy cut burr.

you can also use the 3M discs, which have very good removal properties for alloy, but are a little exxy for a consumable ($2 each for 1" dia)

don't worry abot polish for intake, rough surface flows better.. for exhaust, maybe it will slow adhesion of carbon but not much benefit. for combustion chamber, maybe polish is good..

here's some of my effort.
http://www.materials.unsw.edu.au/~sford/3khdpixnew .html

http://www.materials.unsw.edu.au/~sford/pics/newhead4.jpg
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jeffro RA28
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Location:
Tamworth
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August 2004
Re: DIY Port and Polish Mon, 25 July 2005 21:32 Go to previous messageGo to next message
It will not flow any differenent if it is polished or just smooth. A smooth(slightly textured) surface will be more benefitial as it helps with fuel atomisation.

Do not get them looking like a mirror.
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Lukass
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Location:
Brisbane
Registered:
July 2005
Re: DIY Port and Polish Mon, 25 July 2005 22:52 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Q. Can I run your products in my Dremel tool?
A. No. You should use an air powered die grinder, either straight or right angle, with a maximum R.P.M. of 25,000. You can also use an electric grinder that has a 1/4" collet, and it, too, should not exceed 25,000 R.P.M.

From the FAQ on the website.
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oldcorollas
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Location:
Kita-Ku, Sapporo, Japan
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January 2003
 
Re: DIY Port and Polish Tue, 26 July 2005 04:11 Go to previous messageGo to next message
jeffro RA28 wrote on Tue, 26 July 2005 07:32

It will not flow any differenent if it is polished or just smooth. A smooth(slightly textured) surface will be more benefitial as it helps with fuel atomisation.

Do not get them looking like a mirror.


afaik, a rough sandcast finish has best properties in terms of the stagnant layer on the metal surface reducing friction and reducing fuel dropout......
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michaelhaynes110
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Location:
Townsville, QLD, Australia
Registered:
June 2005
Re: DIY Port and Polish Tue, 26 July 2005 08:07 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Lukass wrote on Tue, 26 July 2005 08:52

Q. Can I run your products in my Dremel tool?
A. No. You should use an air powered die grinder, either straight or right angle, with a maximum R.P.M. of 25,000. You can also use an electric grinder that has a 1/4" collet, and it, too, should not exceed 25,000 R.P.M.

From the FAQ on the website.


The dremel runs at under 25 000 rpm so why wouldn't you be able to use it?

This guy here did his intake using it: http://vamp.darkravers.net/DIYPortPolishIntakeMani fold.cfm
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jeffro RA28
Regular


Location:
Tamworth
Registered:
August 2004
Re: DIY Port and Polish Tue, 26 July 2005 09:26 Go to previous message
Hmmm, i was always told that when it comes down to final surface finish the flow doesnt really differ enough to notice, and if it shall then it would differ at a maximum of 4%.

I have not yet seen a difference on the flow bench from a port that is shiny like a mirror and a rougher sanded finish on the exact same port.

[Updated on: Tue, 26 July 2005 09:27]

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