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Registered:
May 2002
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32/36 Weber Setup (Jets etc.)?
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Sat, 28 December 2002 17:03
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Hi people,
Just would like to know of anyone running a Weber 32/36 DGV (or derivatives) on how they have st up their carb regarding jets etc.
I have a stock 18R-C with only the change in carb. At the moment I believe the performance can be better at lower RPM's on the primary circuit (second throat not open yet).
The setup of the carb is:
Primary Secondary
Emulsion Tube F6 F6
Idle Jet 0.45 0.50
Air Corrector 170 180
Main Jet 140 140
Pump Jet 50
Anybody else with their jet settings etc??
Thanks!!
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Registered:
May 2002
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Re: 32/36 Weber Setup (Jets etc.)?
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Thu, 02 January 2003 11:48
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Nobody else??
Seem like I'm on this mission alone...
Well if anybody is using a weber jets & emulsion tubes are available from wwww.redlineauto.com.au The only place I've found to have them at the moment. Seems like I'm going to have to experiment.
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Location:
Rocky Mountains, Canada
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: 32/36 Weber Setup (Jets etc.)?
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Thu, 02 January 2003 12:06
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Pay the few $$s, and get a dyno tune done.
Its the only way to tune webers properly... you dont want to buy all the different combinations of parts and then tune it by "feel" on the road.
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Registered:
May 2002
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Re: 32/36 Weber Setup (Jets etc.)?
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Fri, 03 January 2003 05:06
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The car's running pretty OK now and I don't think warrants spending money for a dyno tune at the moment (rather put it toward the 18RG fund).  Just wanted to see if there was anything more I can get out from it. I still need some extractors to make the most out of the bigger carby anyway.
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Location:
Rocky Mountains, Canada
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: 32/36 Weber Setup (Jets etc.)?
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Fri, 03 January 2003 07:00
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Dont bother with extractors.
Jap exst manifolds are of good quality anyway, getting extractors wont make much difference.
Also put that money towards an 18RG 
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On Probation
Location:
North East NSW
Registered:
December 2002
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Re: 32/36 Weber Setup (Jets etc.)?
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Sun, 12 January 2003 12:16
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thats pretty interesting, sure is a small idle jet you have there. i've never seen an 18r-c intake manifold but if they're anything like the K motor one (even the smooth runner "good" one), they're shit, which in theory means you have to run a richer idle. i couldnt get a 45 idle jet working in my 3k and thats only 1.2L!
32/36 webers tend to run rich down low on anything, this is the tradeoff you get for higher rpm performance. it makes a shitload of difference on a 3k, how is it for you with your 2L?
the theory is to go as small as you can with fuel jets, then when it cuts out (too lean) go back a jet. air jets should be about main + 50 if you follow the book. speaking of books, a good one to get is haynes manual 393, weber carbs
isnt F6 a very rich e-tube? i have a graded list for sidedrafts, F6 is the richest. are the downdrafts the same? they couldnt name them in any sort of logical order could they 
while the theory says to set it all as lean as possible, at WOT more fuel means more power and i reckon it would be pretty hard to overfuel a 36mm throat as long as you dont go nuts with the fuel jets. most people setup the primary throat as lean as possible (good idle, little main, big air, mid e-tube) for street driving and the secondary as rich as possible (big main, little air, try different tubes) for power and noise. you will pretty much destroy any chance you have at flooring from low rpm and getting more response from the car than pop back up into your air filter
of more use is making sure your manifold is up to the task. smooth out the intake to match your adapter plate angle and turn the double-O into a big tall O (this is called "hogging" a manifold) for enhanced airflow. if you'd like photos and howto/tricks i can provide. i personally think polishing is only good if you intend to have high airflow all the time (ie: race application) for the street i would leave the manifold surfaces alone. port match to your head while you have the thing off (stick little clean rags down the head ports before attacking with the stone bit)
as absolutely useless as it is to you, heres what i have in a holley 5200 (licensed copy of a 32/36 dfv, which is a dgv with the throats reversed) on a standard 3k
idle 50 70
tubes no idea
jets 125 140
airs 165 150
with vac advance, no fast idle linkage, no choke flaps. does the secondary idle jet even do anything? the primary fuel is as lean as it can go, i'm going to try a 180 air in that throat and move the 165 in place of the 150. i cant use WOT at anything below 3000rpm or it just stumbles and dies. top end is fantastically different, even at 4000rpm it pulls more than with the original carb. i cant rev past 6200rpm because of dead valve springs, but up till then its all better than with the aisan
when i first got the thing i was jetted way rich. it sucked arse down low but it was hell noisy and when you got the revs up and floored it, i thought the car would wheelstand!!!
one thing. make sure you dont run your idle too rich and pop up into your filter on any sort of regular basis, you'll blow the air horn clean off the carb body like i did, helicoil time. exhaust popping on deceleration (2000-3000rpm for me) again means too rich
if your temp guage goes higher than usual it means you're running a bit lean. wherever you are, hot days and cold days will make a bit of a difference to your carb. this is another way to experiment with leaning and richening a mixture. this also means you may have to tune your carb twice a year as the seasons change
if you have vac advance on your carb and dizzy, then use it. if not, a higher static advance (5-10 degrees) is needed and tune the rest with dizzy weights. what are Rs like with lots of advance? a K motor will spin backwards before it pings as long as you have good fuel in it
finally, these carburettors have much better mixture qualities than the factory aisans, and you know what that means... keybang!
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Location:
Canberra, ACT
Registered:
September 2002
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Re: 32/36 Weber Setup (Jets etc.)?
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Mon, 13 January 2003 08:01
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jamie,
do you save these war&peace efforts anywhere?
obviously you put a fair bit of typing effort into them, might as well keep a copy, as it'll disappear from forums relatively fast
that weber haynes book sounds good, too, might try to get a copy of it
cheers,
j.
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On Probation
Location:
North East NSW
Registered:
December 2002
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Re: 32/36 Weber Setup (Jets etc.)?
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Mon, 13 January 2003 12:35
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i did have them on my webpage, but theyre not linked anymore. really theres not much point sharing settings even for the same motor, each motor will be different, the best you will get is a rough idea of what to try, and that's all available on the net in tuning theory pages or in a good book
everything i learnt about tuning the holley i learnt online. true someone has to write it to start with, but people have beat me there, and i'll always be around to share info
dont know a good book for rebuilding a dellorto dhla do you?
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Location:
Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
Registered:
October 2002
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Re: 32/36 Weber Setup (Jets etc.)?
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Tue, 14 January 2003 04:37
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"How to build and powertune Weber and Dellorto DCOE and DHLA Carburetors"
ISBN # 191295648
Amazon.com
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On Probation
Location:
North East NSW
Registered:
December 2002
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Re: 32/36 Weber Setup (Jets etc.)?
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Tue, 14 January 2003 08:30
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thanks for the tip, it should be on my doorstep in "3 to 6 weeks"
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Registered:
May 2002
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Re: 32/36 Weber Setup (Jets etc.)?
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Tue, 21 January 2003 13:20
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Hi Jamie,
Thanks heaps for that bit of info.
I already have the Weber 393 book as that is what I used to rebuild the carb.
I have since played around with the float height as I was having heaps of trouble starting dead cold. I think there is no fuel in the carby in the mornings meaning I'd be pumping the accelerator and cranking away before the thing would start (my car has a mechanical fuel pump)... the choke is working fine so it wasn't that. But a little play around with the float fixed that up a little.
Funnily enough the 45 idle jet works fine, smooth idle and smooth power delivery all the way to about 2500RPM. I feel it dipping in power a little up there but by that time I just open up throat 2 and floor it. I think the little dip in power between 2500RPM and 3000RPM is the engine leaning out but once past that little dip it powers through fine.. am I correct in this assumption? If so I was thinking on going on a smaller Air corrector jet or different e-tube... on the primary barrel(I wish they had a properscale for these damn e tubes too!!) would this be correct?
Other than this slight annoying dip in the power band at full throttle witht he second throat open above 3000RRM the car feels 100x better than the standard carbie.
The adapter I'm using isn't made up of 2 seperate o's either but instead one big oval. I don't know if this is what you meant by "hogging" a manifold. But the adaptor plate is quite smooth and matches the ports pretty closely.
I was thingking of port matching while the manifolds were off but I think the gains versus the trouble would have probably been not worth it. In my 18R crappy non crossflow the intake and exhaust manifolds are basically on top of one another and gets the intake manifold and carby quite hot too... I think this one one big problem as I have a feeling the pertol is just boiling away in the carby. The standard shielding is doing crap all in blocking heat so at the moment I'm thinking of other ways other than wrapping the exhaust headers with some heat shielding tape.... the big problem is that I think they are attatched and touching each other and no matter what I wrap the exhaust headers with the heat will still transfer over because thay are attatched!!... I'll double check the celica haynes manual again... but that's another one of my problems.
My carby has a port for vacum advance and I am using it. I haven't tried upping the timing yet... I don't really want to hurt the engine like that yet
As far as the idle jet for the secondary port... In the haynes manual for the 32/36 it's used to meter the fuel going out of the progression holes in the second barrel.
When I got the carby the standard setting were quite rich for me as well. I also managed to grab a few other jets from another older weber carby my dad had laying around.
As for near redline rpm's 5000RPM - 6000RPM ... I think the engine could do with a bit more fuel.. but I want to get that dip fixed first. I problems with the carby popping is very rare and only happens when I'm tring to do a first start of the day on the car.... I think I it might have been too much pumping??
Oh well... time for some more experimentation and saving up for a new car maybe!!
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