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Mr DOHC
Forums Junkie


Location:
Brisbane
Registered:
October 2002
 
adjusting hydro clutch Mon, 26 September 2005 09:21 Go to next message
i have just bled my hydro clutch in my car.

i still only have 3 inches of pedal travel till downwards its fully disengaged, which is harsh, how do i make it so i have more space till it starts to move the clutch cylinder
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Dale_ta22
Regular


Location:
Forster NSW
Registered:
September 2004
Re: adjusting hydro clutch Mon, 26 September 2005 09:24 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Try playing with the adjusting nut on the MC. It will be up under the dash on the pushrod that's hooked up to the clutch pedal.

Just loosen off the locknut and adjust accordingly. It might be a difficult job, just because actually getting to it isn't easy!
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EVOSTi
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Location:
cambo
Registered:
May 2002
      no
Re: adjusting hydro clutch Mon, 26 September 2005 10:04 Go to previous messageGo to next message
you shouldnt ever have to adjust anything with a hydraulic setup, unless someone has messed around with the adjustment at the m/c but you shouldnt need to really.
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Mr DOHC
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Location:
Brisbane
Registered:
October 2002
 
Re: adjusting hydro clutch Mon, 26 September 2005 10:18 Go to previous messageGo to next message
there is no adjustment available, the MC is leaking
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EVOSTi
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Location:
cambo
Registered:
May 2002
      no
Re: adjusting hydro clutch Mon, 26 September 2005 10:28 Go to previous messageGo to next message
are you sure there isnt adjustment? usually the rod connecting the pedal to the m/c is adjustable. i wouldnt think the m/c leaking would be related to the clutch be adjusted up too much.
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Mr DOHC
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Location:
Brisbane
Registered:
October 2002
 
Re: adjusting hydro clutch Mon, 26 September 2005 10:35 Go to previous messageGo to next message
there is no adjustment, the rod is only 3 inches long, theres the clevis joint on one end, and then the rod goes into the boot in the other end

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Dale_ta22
Regular


Location:
Forster NSW
Registered:
September 2004
Re: adjusting hydro clutch Mon, 26 September 2005 11:03 Go to previous messageGo to next message
I had a leaking MC once which after rebuilding had a completely different pedal feel. Though I can't recall if it effected the free play a great deal. A rebuild kit should cost under $20, and maybe an hour or two at the most to do, if you don't want to get a whole new MC
Brake fluid's nasty shit to have leaking anyway, so at least there's no loss in fixing the leak if it doesn't do much else
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Mr DOHC
Forums Junkie


Location:
Brisbane
Registered:
October 2002
 
Re: adjusting hydro clutch Tue, 27 September 2005 06:13 Go to previous messageGo to next message
my bad, there was adjustment, i just couldt see it

btw dale, who's that in your avatar, yummy
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styler
Forums Junkie


Location:
brisbane
Registered:
October 2004
Re: adjusting hydro clutch Wed, 28 September 2005 02:07 Go to previous messageGo to next message
i got a rebuild kit for about 20 for a ke30 rolla, it lasted a while then started leaking again... then i thought id have to fork out a lot for a new master cylinder but it turned out to be only about $40, should have got it in the first place!

bit of tech for future use: (any input welcome)

with the clutch pedal, the pedal needs to have a certain amount of travel to empty the master cylinder to the slave, the pedal can be set at a different start point by adjusting the travel of the pedal at its start of the stroke(adjusting nut up top) and the end of the stroke (master cylinder rod just touching)

the master cylinder needs to fully empty to the slave to disengage the clutch properley so when the pedal is setup, it has to be checked that:

the master cylinder is not being pushed at the start

the master cylinder fully empties when at the end of the stroke

so obviously if the setup is wrong then the master will be pushing at the start (leading to the clutch being disengaged at the start) or will not be empty when at the end (not disengaging at the end)

say you have from 0 to 300mm of pedal travel and your master needs 200mm of travel. you can have that 200mm of travel anywhere in the 0 to 300mm range:

eg
0 start to 200 end = 200
50 start to 250 end = 200
100 start to 300 end = 200

but you cant have it out of that range:

eg
a 200 start would be a 400 end to get 200 travel,
but the pedal stops at 300 so you only have = 100 of travel which isnt enough, the pedal would be pushed against the floor.
and the clutch would only be half disengaged!

a 100 end would be a -100 start but pedal starts at 0, so you would have only = 100 of travel, the clutch would be halfway disengaged at the start and the master would have constant pressure against the seals, not good. it will still disengage fully with the stroke but it would be half disangaged from the start all the time!

[Updated on: Wed, 28 September 2005 02:44]

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kingmick
Forums Junkie


Banned by his request

Location:
moved to tamworth
Registered:
July 2002
Re: adjusting hydro clutch Wed, 28 September 2005 03:20 Go to previous message
lol if you two dont stop using those avtars im gion to take a pic of myself naked and use it as my avtar!
mick
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