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Location: Brisbane
Registered: July 2005
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Intercooling 1g-gze
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Wed, 19 October 2005 06:41
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I have searched around and am having a bit of trouble finding discussion of intercooling a 1G-GZE. It seems that they are most commonly IC'ed when u take a SC14 and bolt it onto something else.
I wana change my pulley size and start doing other things but i already think that my timing is being retarded as a result of intake temps. Grant (sixworks) suggested its probly about 95 deg C!!!
I think that bringing this down is the first place i need to start, but physically doing this (efficiently) in a Mark II bay with the S/C connected straight to the plenum looks to be a challenge.
any help is appreciated
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I supported Toymods
Location: Australia
Registered: November 2003
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Re: Intercooling 1g-gze
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Wed, 19 October 2005 07:43

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I'm only 90% sure of this, but the AirTemp sensor is usually in the AFM, which is before the SuperCharger.
So no timing will be retarded due to intake temps, and the ECU pretty much only ever sees ambient temps.
That said, Grant is right in saying the temps are way up there.
IC setup will be a pain, but you can probably run from the s/c, somewhere below the headlight, small IC, back to manifold.
Probably the easiest way.
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Location: Brisbane
Registered: August 2004
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Re: Intercooling 1g-gze
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Wed, 19 October 2005 09:27

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Yeah, would be a pain, i saw on that green/silver RA23 with a 1GGZE had some kind of set hanging off the SC side of the engine, might have been some kind of cooler??
If Grant is around, are you updating the sixworks page cause it's down at the moment?
Glen.
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I supported Toymods
Location: Australia
Registered: November 2003
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Re: Intercooling 1g-gze
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Wed, 19 October 2005 09:28

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Sixworks as we know it no longer exists.
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Location: Brisbane
Registered: July 2005
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Re: Intercooling 1g-gze
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Fri, 21 October 2005 04:43

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cRuz,
will other sensors affect timing? ie O2 sensor, coolant temp sensor? It always runs at about 2/3 of the temp gauge, something just doesnt feel rite...
I flushed the coolant on the weekend. The whole system appears to be about 4.5L!!! This seems a lil small to me. Can anyone say whether this is rite?
I am in need of dyno run.
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I supported Toymods
Location: Australia
Registered: November 2003
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Re: Intercooling 1g-gze
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Fri, 21 October 2005 04:48

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Coolant Temp will affect timing.
Air Temp will affect timing.
Knock Sensors will affect timing.
You'll find the TPS may too (ie WOT mode)
I doubt the o2 sensors do though.
Toyotas almost always sit at half temp gauge.
Get a new thermostat too.
The block/radiator normally holds about 8L all up.
Use 50/50 mix of Toyota red and distilled water.
The block usually has a coolant drain cock on either side, undo these and drain the coolant from the block.
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Location: Brisbane
Registered: July 2005
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Re: Intercooling 1g-gze
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Fri, 21 October 2005 05:03

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1. What is the make up of Toyota red, and why not green?
2. I replaced it with green.
Drained it from lower hose, removing top hose to allow it to run out of the block, and radiator. Topped up with distilled water, ran the engine hot, drained it then repeated (about 4 times to be sure) then filled up with 2.0L green topped up with distilled water - to a total 4.5L after running it hot checking topping up etc. Coolant has been in the engine best part of a week now and its still very green, no funny colour suggesting it mixed with red so i am pretty sure it was a complete flush - still 4.5 L is the most that it will hold.
Do you think part of the jacket could be blocked???
3. Why change the thermostat? Is it a common failing part? Do you have any idea where to get one from in Brisbane.
Being the EFI brain that you are, i am sure it will be no prob for you to tell me how to run the diagnostic test on a 1GGZE 1987 Mark II...
Your help is much appreciated.
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I supported Toymods
Location: Australia
Registered: November 2003
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Re: Intercooling 1g-gze
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Fri, 21 October 2005 05:11
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1) Toyota Red is designed for the metal in Toyota's blocks, and the metal in Toyota's heads. It also has very good cooling qualities.
2) I doubt the jacket is blocked
3) The thermostat is a $30 part. Its something you jsut change with the coolant because its cheap insurance. They do fail. Most of the time in the open position, but it can happen in the closed position. Toyota carry them, just take yours in and get them to match it.
4) Bridge T1 and E1 (T1 could just be T, or TE1) in the diagnostic box. Turn the key ON and count the CEL flashes.
Then look up the 1GGTE codes in the repository.
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