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Location:
Toowoomba
Registered:
May 2002
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 Admitting defeat: ECU Tuning questiongs
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Wed, 12 February 2003 00:20
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Hi, I need to know some good tips/tricks/techniqes for tuning my Microtech ECU. I did get a dyno tune but due to a few problems it asn't completed properly. I am going to upgrade the ECU with the 3D and Matrix mods soon so this will be just to get me by til then.
Pump Values: This is probably what give me the most headaches. I'm not sure what I should be changing when. Do I change the amount or duration or the pump (has pump 1 for <2000rpm and pump2 >2000rpm). And I'm not sure whether the pump trigger value is how much fuel to add when the pump is triggered OR how much change in something is required to trigger the pump???
Load: Most of these are fairly close so just a couple of pointers. Living high up (toowoomba) I can't get 00" vacume and there is no adjustment on the ECU so I try to get around it using WOT values and making the 00" point a little richer than normal.
WOT: Same as above, seems ok but some pointers would be good. There are afew little hickups in the acceleration and it feels very boggy below 3000rpm (non-boosted car BTW).
A/F Ratios: Ok 14.7 is supposed to be spot on but is this the case all the time? Should I aim to have exactly 14.7 at ALL times or just on cruise (imagine a perfect world  ). Should it be say 13 under heavy acceleration or something else??? Also is there anyway of checking my A/F sensor to make sure it is reading correctly, apparently the dyno showed different values at times but the sensor for that is all the way at the back of the car.
Water/Air/Crank: These have me a little confused. How much extra fuel is normally added at different points? I can get it to start ok, but not as good as factory EFI cars and it seems to run good all the time EXCEPT for about 2-3mins after I start it, after that I could probably have no extra fuel and it would run ok.
Other problems: There are afew hickups. if for example I bring the revs up to say 3000-4000rpm then push the clutch in and let the throttle off, the revs drop to about 600rpm instead of my ussualy 850rom idle, is this normal or should I be correcting something. The car launches very poorly and has little power below 2000rpm and not much better til 3000rpm, then it realy pcks up (close to stock motor, standard cams). And it doesn't seem to rev as high or as freely as it did with the carbs. Fuel consumption is better but still poor.
Most of these things would be quickly cleared up with the 3D mod (rpm * load = inj. timing instead of load = inj. timing + WOT and CRS maps). But I won't be getting that for a couple of weeks and I will still need to know how to adjust alot of these things.
NOTE: The motor is an 18r-gu with EFI and electronic ingnition conversion, microtech mt-4, standard injectors and fuel pressure, head has been cleaned up afew times so very slight amount has been shaved off (enough to requre slight cam adjustment but this should not be a problem) and a mild port job (cleaed dags and slight mods to the shape). Thats about all.
Sorry for such a very long post but if I don't ask I wil never know. Even just afew bits and pieces from people who know what they are doing would be a great help, or some nice web links would be great aswell. Thanks
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Location:
Canberra
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: Admitting defeat: ECU Tuning questiongs
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Wed, 12 February 2003 01:27
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I havn't touched a microtech for 2 years, so I wont hazard a guess at the direct questions on pump values etc, but in regards to fuel/air mixtures, 14.7 is ideal on light load/cruise, but full load should be closer to 13.0:1 as a rough guide. you will also find that idle mixtures will probably give a better result at around 13.0:1, most cars dont like to be as lean as 14.7 when idling. Do you have some sort of mixture meter to read the ratios?
as for the coolant map, best advice i can give is that you're just gonna have to spend several mornings adjusting the values from cold start. you'll know if its too lean because the revs will hunt at idle, too rich and the engine will labour & blow black smoke out the exhaust. A mixture meter is not particularly useful for setting up these values, as the sensor will not be hot enough to read properly from cold start.
If its idling at too low a speed when cold, rather than idling with rich lean mixtures, then the only fix will be to fit some sort of manual air bypass to let air past the throttle body. microtech cant control the usual idle air bypass valves, and so most cars fitted with microtech end up with a shitty idle for the first few minutes after a cold start.
Hope this gets you started.
Cheers
Phil
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Location:
Toowoomba
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: Admitting defeat: ECU Tuning questiongs
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Wed, 12 February 2003 01:31
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yeah that does help me. Now someone who knows about pump values and hte rest.
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Location:
Montrose, VIC
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: Admitting defeat: ECU Tuning questiongs
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Wed, 12 February 2003 10:59
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also, when you say your AFR sensor, what exactly are you using there?
plus, in my opinion, without 3D mapping, you really are fighting a losing battle in a way!
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Location:
North Sydney
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: Admitting defeat: ECU Tuning questiongs
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Wed, 12 February 2003 11:30
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Also with setting up your cold start maps, decrease the fuel for the current cold temp range, eg 18C>25C till the engine begins to idle up because its lean and then increase the fuel again till the car bogs down past it was normally. Exactly half-way between these two points eg between 0.9ms and 1.4ms is the best value for that particular cold map. Go through and do them all.
As for the idle up, if you have a single stage idle up solenoid or something similar you can wire it off the Microtech. Wire it off normally closed contact of a relay and wire it to the thermofan output. Set the the switch on temp of the thermo fan to say 65C and the idle up will turn on whenever the engine is below 65C.
Are you controlling the timing through the microtech, its the best method. If your just using the dizzy and vacuum advance you may not be getting the correct value of advance and thats why you are experiencing some flat spots and rough running.
Who has done the tuning, i'd get someone who knows what they are doing with it otherwise it will cost you alot of time and money. A reputable place with experience will pretty much know off the top of their head rough values for certain parameters like the pumps and how much to add.
Also, trust the wideband sensor they use on the dyno not your one you've hooked up to the Microtech. They are much better, reliable and accurate. The factory o2 sensors are only really good for values around 14.7, as you get further away from 14.7 the specs of the sensor show its signal becomes dodgy.
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Location:
North Sydney
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: Admitting defeat: ECU Tuning questiongs
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Wed, 12 February 2003 11:41
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Also, get a Microtech manual, it explains everything in there, all about the pumps, the whole lot.
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Location:
Toowoomba
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: Admitting defeat: ECU Tuning questiongs
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Wed, 12 February 2003 13:54
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excellent , thanks guys. I do have a manual, using a skyline o2 sensor, will be upgrading ECU to 3D shortly. I would like to get ignition control on it aswell and laptop control would be handy too. Do you know if it's possible to get an mt-4 upgraded to do this and how much it costs for these three mods (3-d, laptop, ignition)? There are menu's refering to ignition so I guess it should be possible.
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